David Bradley rake repair

I broke the bar that the teeth bolt into . My problem is I cant figure how to take it apart. any ideas? thanks

What model? big difference in doing it. 4 bar wheel in line? 4 bar offset wheel? or parallel bar? Without knowing what you have not possible to help. And my 4 bar offset wheel model left in 1981 so do not remember how it was made.

Hi it is a 4 bar offset-it has a dog leg attachment at the drive end with two cotter pins. after removing the pins it wont clear the cross arrangement that holds the bars and teeth and spins the rake,

Sounds like the same rake I had but like I said too many years to remember. I do remember that the dogs or pauls in the wheels are the same as the Oliver horse drawn mower. In the last few years I have worked on rebuilding dozens of the New idea, McCormick, John Deere and Case steel wheel rakes for the Amish so I have an idea how it works. Perhaps if you can show pictures I might be able to come up with an idea.

(quoted from post at 23:19:53 05/26/15) I broke the bar that the teeth bolt into . My problem is I cant figure how to take it apart. any ideas? thanks

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heir is no need to take it apart. This is how my father used to fix them. About 1 1/2" from the break drill a 3/8" hole vertically and behind it another 2" drill one horizontally on both sides of the break. Slip a snug fitting pipe in side of the bar and re-aline the bars. Through the holes you drilled move the pipe across the break to hold the other side. Weld the pipe around the break and through the holes you drilled. Re drill any holes that may have been blocked by inserting the pipe and you are done. Your mileage may vary , but it worked for us.
Jo

thanks i will try to get some pictures

Hi iwas thinking of doing the same thing.But I had a replacement bar so I thought I would just replace it. my one question about repairing it the
way you mention is the break is in the middle inside the arm so I cant get to it to weld it. I am thinking the bolts my hold fine. Kevin

I did not take it as being in the middle of the bar but in the drive mechanisem of the bar, That is where my thoughts were. Now breaking in middle of bar where the middle bearing rides is very common. I have done that repair on many a rake for a dealer. I just find a section of bar long enough to have 4 bolt holes and half the length of the bolt spacing on the outside end of the outside bolt. Cut the broken bar so that just fits and find a piece of tube at least 6 bolt hols long. It has to be 1" OD tubing as water pipe is not the right sise, I also use 1" sollid bar. That leaves 6 bolts to hold things together and with that length the bar does not flex like a shorter repair will. I have done that repair on all 4 bars. Anouther way is to cut and splice in front of the bearing where they normally break due to wear and if you had one break the rest are probably close. With that way of doing the repair I put the replacement piece at the back end of the bar to give a new spot there for bearing repair and I have had rakes that the end of the bar that goes into the bearing were completely gone. That way requires 2 splice tubes but only 4 bolt holes long. Most rakes use the same size bar withthe tooth bolt spacing the same so can use bar parts from Case to JD to NI To McC Have done so many I have lost count. I have taken a Massey Harris real and put it in a McCormick before I realized it was a Massey real and not just a newer model McCormick real. Also put a New Idea 4 bar real in a 3 bar real frame. Have 4 New Idea 4 bar rakes setting here now for rebuilding that need a 100% teardown and some need frame repairs. from parts rakes I have.

here is what iam working with
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto21678.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto21679.jpg"/>

(quoted from post at 03:32:59 05/28/15) Hi iwas thinking of doing the same thing.But I had a replacement bar so I thought I would just replace it. my one question about repairing it the
way you mention is the break is in the middle inside the arm so I cant get to it to weld it. I am thinking the bolts my hold fine. Kevin

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To repair it as you want, you will have to take off one end or the other of the cage assembly. I just do not see any other way to do it.

I am refurbishing a DB rake early 16" wheel model. I had to drain the oil from the gear box because it accumulated rain for 20 years before I got the rake. Does anyone know what grade of oil to use? I was thinking either 30 weight or maybe a 80-90 gear weight oil.
The dip stick is lost so I'm going to put enough oil to cover the bottom of the gears and maybe just up to the bottom of the drive
shafts.

Does anyone have a operators manual?

Thanks