NH68 Update

Bill VA

Well-known Member
Put a lot of knuckle busting into the New Holland 68.

Replaced the bushings in the knotter drive sproket - what was wobbly enough to potentially throw a chain is now rock solid.

Replaced the bushings in the pitman arm where it connects to the plunger. It too was much looser than I realized, until we replaced the bushings.

Replaced the knurled wheel and trip arm. No trip arm slipping on a bump.

Replaced the wooden plunger bearing/slides and the jack screws used to adjust them and plunger with respect to the bale chamber.

Chased every threaded hole we encountered with a tap.

Used anti seize everywhere - LOL!

Sharpened the plunger knife and adjusted it to the stationary knife per the manual.

Added a extension to the bale ramp to get bales up in our wagon.

Added a brace to the baler/wagon hitch.

Sharpened the knotter knifes.

Still have more to do - but there are only so many hours in the day! Next up is:

Replace the flywheel bushing - needs it bad.

Replace the crank bearing the gearbox end where the plunger pitman attaches.

Replace every u-joint and the carrier bearing in the drive shaft.

Check/replace any suspect bearings in the pick-up.

The hardest part of this refurb was getting the plunger back into the baler. I had to use a 4x4 and sledge hammer to drive it back-in. I knew this going in and read somewhere one person used a come along to pull the plunger into the bale chamber. Once I got close enough to the crank, I hooked it up and used the tractor PTO to pull the plunger the rest of the way in. As many know, I bought a new JD 5055D to go along with my fine MF50 diesel. Many things swayed me to the JD. One of them was a manually engaged independent PTO vs one that is actuated full on with a switch. I wanted the ability to feather on an implement rather than slam it on. Believe me when I say, I was very gratefull for that manual PTO engagement when drawing the plunger into the bale chamber. Once the PTO took over, I let it run at idle. Even with oil, I got a bit of smoke, burnt maple smell and baby powdery dust as the wood slides wore-in.

I was able to run the baler at 540 rpms, it was quite and operated great. Inspite of needing a flywheel bushing, I didn't break any shear bolts - and I ran the baler hard.

Banana bale problem is 95% gone. Only encountered a banana bale/looser twine on one side of the bale when I encountered a light wind row. To remedy this, I adjusted the ground speed to get more hay into the baler pick-up and that seemed to cure it. I've studied this NH68 like a final exam and feel that even if everything is adjusted, refreshed (or the baler was new), the best adjustment for a banana bale is a full pick-up of hay.

Another problem that has gone away Is bale tension. Last summer, the baler did not like a tight bale - it made the banana bale problem worse. Now I can crank the tension down on - no problem. I set the tension such that the string put a nice visible crease in the ends of the bales.

Bale length - even with the new knurled metering wheel, my bales were somewhat inconsistent in length at times. It is not drastically bad by any means, but sometimes a 36 inch bale might be 40ish inches. I attribute this to just a big wad of hay went into the bale chamber just as the metering arm was about to trip - and that wad was the extra length.

Bale "looks": we are getting a much better bale than ever, but it' still a little ragged vs what I see coming out of a newer baler and especially a Hesston/MF inline baler. Nothing wrong with the NH68 bale, but I'm selling everything and the crisper the bale, IMHO, the better it sells.

So the NH68 is up and going. I think it is a very good baler, requires a bit of attention when baling to prevent a tad of banana bale effect, i.e. full pick-up of hay and gives an OK, but not always great looking bale.

We're done baling this spring. Next action will be July/August-ish time frame for the 2nd cutting.

Before I forget, while the NH68 is considered a low capacity baler, the real limit (we found) was the stacker on the back and their ability to keep up! I could bury my boys if I mashed the baler. Somehow, though, I think they will get the hang of stacking and the capacity of the baler will be the limit - we'll see.

Thanks for everyone's help on this NH68.

Bill
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As far as your ragged bale, did you sharpen the stationary knife? Next I adjust my knives so close they click when they go by. Don't know what the book says for adjust. Never looked.
 
New Holland balers are real picky about windrow uniformity.Count you strokes per bale.Learn to vary the tractor speed to maintain a uniform # number of strokes.I like 20 spb.Gear up at 25.Gear down at 15.Keep engine RPM at or just below PTO speed. Vary ground speed.I wonder you have put so much time and money into an old obsolete low capacity baler. But I applaud your efforts! Good job!!
 
Very cool. 68 is a great baler. There is a Amish man in Pa that's rebuilding them, he prefers to start with a super 68 and puts a gas motor on them. Perfect lighter weight balers for guys farming with horses. I thinks its great that you teach young ones to restore and use this baler.
 
Thanks - I did not sharpen the stationary knife, though it's on my radar. Unlike later NH balers, the stationary knife on this baler is curved in profile vs a long straight edge like the plunger knife. You can't rake a flat file across it due to the curvature - but I'm thinking maybe a drimmel with some kind of router type jig where the grinding wheel is perpendicular to the side of the knife. The stationary knife, I believe has a nut holding the countersunk bolts that hold it in place - but it looks somewhat difficult to get to that area. If the stationary knife is as hard to get-off as the plunger knife, I think I'll try to sharpen it as best as possible in place.
 

Bill, a round file or half round or a 4" angle grinder will do the stationary knife. It wants to be pretty square I think.

You had to drive the plunger back in? Sounds like you needed to relieve the edges on the slides maybe. Having to drive it in would bring things to a stop for me.

I agree the 68 is a great baler. Considering they're all 50 years old and most (like mine) don't get the best care, it's no wonder they got a rep as finicky and low capacity and for banana bales.
 
Yea - I'm watching the strokes per bale. One of the disadvantages to this baler is probably the plunger speed. I need to re-count, but at 540 PTO, I was counting 60 strokes per minute. A newer baler might be 93 SPM and some of the MF/Hesston inline balers are 100 SPM.

So there is this balance between windrow size, strokes per bale, ground speed, keeping the pick-up full and banana bale potential - LOL.

Certainly a higher SPM baler would help - one of these days.... ;-)

When I bought this baler, I wanted a NH273, but everything I found and still see for sale is ragged and upwards of $2,000 and more. They all need refurb'd like my 68 - read more $$$'s on top of the selling price. I paid $550 for the 68, I might have $1,000 in parts, including the parts for refurbing the flywheel bushing, U-joints and a set of new aftermarket needles, all of which I have in hand. I'm at $1,550ish and have a very good baler, like new in some respects. I think it's a better deal than the 273's I've seen that are so much more pricey than what I've got in this baler. We've already made enough $$$'s to pay for the baler, sickle mower, rake, tedder and wagon and whatever parts I've had to buy, so on that front, we're in the black. The new JD, it would have come regardless of our hay efforts, so I don't factor that in.

However.....

I think most would punt on a baler like this and haul it down to the scrap yard. If I had to twist my Wife's arm and get permission to write a check for a spankin' new baler, the #1 reason she would go along with it is - the number of knuckle busts I've encountered with rusty bolts on the 68!!!!

But most important with this project and the hay deal is to 1) make hay, 2) show my boys how to figure out, turn a wrench and fix something that others might toss in the trash, 3) great quality/quantity time with my boys in the field. We've had a great time of it!

Thanks,
Bill
 
From what I've read, it's not uncommon to have to drive the plunger into the bale chamber after a new set of wood slides. My guess is over
some 50 years, the bale chamber is no longer square in any direction. But I got it in and knock in wood, all is good.

BTW - the NH68 can't be a total crappy designed baler. If you look at the 2015 New Holland BC5050, there are still a lot of similarities in
design, including the flow action feeding system.
 
Probably if I want the perfect bale, I'd look to the MF/Hesston inline balers.

But I'd settle for a JD 338.... ;-)
 
Not at all difficult to get to the stationary knife. Open the back door, and you can reach right in after you remove the nuts on the plow bolts that hold it in place. I just did mine yesterday. I've found it's sometimes easier to shim the stationary blade to adjust the clearance than it is the knife blade.

Nice job on that baler. Your's needed more work than mine, and I thought mine was in rough shape! BTW, a torch makes quick work of those rusted nuts and such...
 
forgot...if the stationary knife (anvil) is a little sticky coming out, take a thin punch through the bolt holes and tap on it from the back side. She'll loosen right up.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:12 05/27/15) From what I've read, it's not uncommon to have to drive the plunger into the bale chamber after a new set of wood slides. My guess is over
some 50 years, the bale chamber is no longer square in any direction. But I got it in and knock in wood, all is good.

Really? I've never heard that before. I suppose it makes sense. I had no problem on mine though and it was a basket case when I got it. Works great now! :D
 
(quoted from post at 11:58:49 05/27/15) Not at all difficult to get to the stationary knife. Open the back door, and you can reach right in after you remove the nuts on the plow bolts that hold it in place. I just did mine yesterday. I've found it's sometimes easier to shim the stationary blade to adjust the clearance than it is the knife blade.

I'm having a problem visualizing what back door on a NH68 you open to allow access to anywhere near the bale chamber. Could you clue me in?
 
Standing behind the baler, the back access door you open to service the tine bar,
tine bar sprockets and chain. The three nuts holding the stationary knife are on the
balers right, outside of the bale chamber below the knotters. No need to access the
inside because they are plow bolts. Move the plunger so it is at it furthest point
forward, remove the anvil's 3/4" nuts and tap the bolts into the chamber. Reach your
right arm in through the access door, down into the chamber/chute and grab the anvil.
If it sticks, put a thin punch through the bolt holes and tap on the back side of the
anvil plate through the bolt holes.
 

Okay, I'm going to have to hike on out to the baler and look. Still can't visualize where you mean. :roll:
 
Very nice work Bill. Kudos for the effort and 'sweat equity' put into keeping the baler alive.
We used 68's for years in our neighborhood. Aside from the banana troubles, they were always dependable.

Looks good! Let us know how the rest of the repairs go AND how it performs in the field!
 

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