RE: hayrack's JD 535 rd baler

Tx Jim · May 8, 2015

hayrack
I sold my 849 a couple of years ago to update to a Deere 535. I have been wishing that Deere gone ever since.[/quote]

Difficult core formation on JD rd baler especially in the earlier models with the rectangular bars on the metal starter roll is caused from wear on the leading edge of the rectangular bars. I welded on many starter rolls bars during and after I worked at the dealership. I've even welded a round rod about 14'' long on each side in between the original rectangular bars.

Also are most of the pickup teeth in place plus excessively worn belts contribute to difficult bale core formation. I always run my JD rd balers at 450 pto rpm's instead of 540 rpm's.

On not putting twine on bales do you wait to stop until twine arms have traveled to center of baler and twine indicator wheels are spinning? How tight is your twine tension?

Hayrack · May 8, 2015

TX Jim. Our 535 does have the rectangular bars on the bottom roller. They are wore some, but they have had a bead welded on the leading edge. The belts had 500 bales from new on it when we got it. The pickup is in good shape with all the teeth in it. I do suspect that welding the rods you speak of would help a lot. I put new twine arms on because ours were wore to the point that they had a grove in the end deep enough to catch the twine. I have had to literally take the twine tensioners of the baler to get it to tie. I have been over that baler a half dozen times but I cant see a single place where that twine could be hanging up so hard, but with the twine tensioners on it, it wouldn't even attempt to tie on it's own. The twine just pulled too hard. Don't get me wrong Sir, half of the stuff on our place is JD green and I do believe that the 535 makes a more uniform bale than the 849 New Holland ever will. I just liked the simplicity of the New Holland baler and it seemed to work better for us in the conditions we work in.

Tx Jim · May 8, 2015

Baling in sandy soils I've welded on the rectangular bars more than once in a hay season.

Gene-WI · May 10, 2015

I've been looking for a better baler than I have. Are you saying I should stay away from the 535 or just get a later model one, I've been thinking a 535 with net wrap.

Tx Jim · May 10, 2015

Although a 535 is getting a little old similar to me they're still good balers. Only thing is twine/netwrap is hydraulically operated while on later model balers the twine/netwrap is electrectrically operated which I like better. The absolute sorriest JD rd baler I ever owned was a 466 mega-wide pickup. The sand falling on the feeder finger crankshaft under the pickup wore the shaft extensively to the point it was difficult to keep the feeder fingers in place.

Most JD bale core starting problems are due to worn starter roll bars or rods,worn out belts or too many missing pickup teeth

cjunrau · May 11, 2015

To start with I do not believe it only had 500 bales and a grove in the tie arm. I have made 30 thousand bales with the first model 535 JD baler ever made. Still has original belts and tie arms. To start with the twine should pull hard but not as hard as you say it is. It is adjustable, Start at the twine box. Make sure the twine is coming up the middle hole and between the first tensioner( if this tensioner is rusty POLISH IT to take off rust completely.)Make 1 not 2 or three wraps around the wheel. Make sure you go through the correct hole to the tie arm. Now here is what a lot of people have trouble with. There is a pin in the tie arm you HAVE TO make the twin go in behind the tensioner and under that pin.(some hoke over and it gets caught as it doesn't travel straight
) Twine should sit flat and strait all the way along the twine arm. Make sure no one has added washers behind the spring. There should be no washers anywhere. This should make about 10 lbs of pull to release twine. Always make sure bale feeds till twine begins to wrap before stopping. This will help feed the twine to the bale to start the tie process.

As far as feeding hay or straw to start bale. Throttle down to idle till bale gets going, then rev up and make a bale. The other problem with starting a bale can be wore belts, to much bale tension, I like to run at 3 o'clock on the gauge, BIGGEST problem trying to start a bale on the edge and it catches on the side of pickup, it is not a mega wide so DO NOT try to use it as such. Always start the bale going down the middle of the swath, then start filling each side to get the bale shap indicator needels to get up high in the green. When doing this drive 100 ft on the left then fast to the right 100 ft then fast to the left again. Do not weave back and forth or you get a round top bale. You try to fill one side then the other side with as little cross over time as possible.. Some people say spray sugar water or coke on belts to start but I have never done this. I believe you can not get a better round baler than a JD, I would never trade to a different make. I take pride in making strait bales and 50 an hour on smooth fields with large swath.

bison · May 11, 2015

(quoted from post at 17:00:33 05/11/15) To start with I do not believe it only had 500 bales and a grove in the tie arm. I have made 30 thousand bales with the first model 535 JD baler ever made. Still has original belts and tie arms. To start with the twine should pull hard but not as hard as you say it is. It is adjustable, Start at the twine box. Make sure the twine is coming up the middle hole and between the first tensioner( if this tensioner is rusty POLISH IT to take off rust completely.)Make 1 not 2 or three wraps around the wheel. Make sure you go through the correct hole to the tie arm. Now here is what a lot of people have trouble with. There is a pin in the tie arm you HAVE TO make the twin go in behind the tensioner and under that pin.(some hoke over and it gets caught as it doesn't travel straight
) Twine should sit flat and strait all the way along the twine arm. Make sure no one has added washers behind the spring. There should be no washers anywhere. This should make about 10 lbs of pull to release twine. Always make sure bale feeds till twine begins to wrap before stopping. This will help feed the twine to the bale to start the tie process.

As far as feeding hay or straw to start bale. Throttle down to idle till bale gets going, then rev up and make a bale. The other problem with starting a bale can be wore belts, to much bale tension, I like to run at 3 o'clock on the gauge, BIGGEST problem trying to start a bale on the edge and it catches on the side of pickup, it is not a mega wide so DO NOT try to use it as such. Always start the bale going down the middle of the swath, then start filling each side to get the bale shap indicator needels to get up high in the green. When doing this drive 100 ft on the left then fast to the right 100 ft then fast to the left again. Do not weave back and forth or you get a round top bale. You try to fill one side then the other side with as little cross over time as possible.. Some people say spray sugar water or coke on belts to start but I have never done this. I believe you can not get a better round baler than a JD, I would never trade to a different make.[b:5f944af3e7] I take pride in making strait bales and 50 an hour on smooth fields with large swath.[/b:5f944af3e7]

I wonder how in the blazes you can make 50 bales an hour??
I have a 567 mega wide and i can not make more than half that with two 14' swaths raked together, i can only travel 3 ml an hour,..any faster and it can't gobble it up.
on top of that the bales are not nearly as tight as i make in a single 14' swath.

it takes as much time to put the twine on as to make the bale.

Tx Jim · May 12, 2015

(quoted from post at 20:58:38 05/11/15)

I wonder how in the blazes you can make 50 bales an hour??
I have a 567 mega wide and i can not make more than half that with two 14' swaths raked together,

it takes as much time to put the twine on as to make the bale.

My nephew claims he bales 50(4 ft wide) BPH but he bales in smooth rowcrop fields at 12 mph. 6mph is my limit. To bale much over 25 BPH one needs to utilize surface(net) wrap.

bison · May 12, 2015

(quoted from post at 03:17:39 05/12/15)

(quoted from post at 20:58:38 05/11/15)

I wonder how in the blazes you can make 50 bales an hour??
I have a 567 mega wide and i can not make more than half that with two 14' swaths raked together,

it takes as much time to put the twine on as to make the bale.

Click to expand...

My nephew claims he bales 50(4 ft wide) BPH but he bales in smooth rowcrop fields at 12 mph. 6mph is my limit. To bale much over 25 BPH [b:c2d01d2df8]one needs to utilize surface(net) wrap[/b:c2d01d2df8].

hat figures, i hadn't thought about that.
But I hate that stuff.

I could bale 30 BPH with my old vermeer 605 D (single 14' swath),single twine arm, hand controlled hydr tie.
It takes the JD twice as long to put the twine on(it uses double the amount of twine too), PITA.

Tx Jim · May 12, 2015

(quoted from post at 14:35:25 05/12/15)

I could bale 30 BPH with my old vermeer 605 D (single 14' swath),single twine arm, hand controlled hydr tie.
It takes the JD twice as long to put the twine on(it uses double the amount of twine too), PITA.

So you're stating it takes a JD baler with 2 twine arms twice as long to put twice as much twine on as a Vermeer with one twine arm??

May I ask what you're smoking besides tobacco?

bison · May 12, 2015

(quoted from post at 12:50:21 05/12/15)

(quoted from post at 14:35:25 05/12/15)

I could bale 30 BPH with my old vermeer 605 D (single 14' swath),single twine arm, hand controlled hydr tie.
It takes the JD twice as long to put the twine on(it uses double the amount of twine too), PITA.

Click to expand...

[b:7e19a85b52]So you're stating it takes a JD baler with 2 twine arms twice as long to put twice as much twine on as a Vermeer with one twine arm?? [/b:7e19a85b52]

May I ask what you're smoking besides tobacco?

You better believe it.
On the vermeer I controlled the speed of the twine arm.I started on one end of the bale and run 3 wraps then spiral 10-11 wraps across the bale then 3 wraps on the end,pull twine arm and done in under 1 min.
With the damn JD i could take a bloody nap.
It is that the JD is not so finicky in baling short grass hay and makes a bigger and tighter bale than my old vermeer otherwise i would rather use the vermeer, it too has a mega wide pickup(home build)

cjunrau · May 13, 2015

Not that hard actually. I was baling wheat straw that was cut not combined. I was using a 4230 Jd and I had a bale full faster than I could shift the tractor into D4. Now I know I am stupid for baling in road gear ,,but I did it four 11 years for my boss. We made timothy hay and straw. Fields had stones and NO moles, so fields were rolled smooth as pavement. Then I left and went into alfalfa baling. Same thing just field was anhydroused and took 3-5 years before moles slowed you down. The other thing is you have to time the twine. My boss set it with 20seconds per bale. That gave me 40 seconds to pack it full. not hard in a 3-4 bale an acre swath. No weaving either. If it is cut 5 ft wide just hold on and keep the wheel straight . Now I sat at the end of the field one year with a semi to load. Timed the baler for 45 minutes then he would stop, load me up and continue. he was using Jd mega wide, net wrap. 52 seconds average per bale tailgate closed to tailgate closed. Custom baling, on 32 ft raked together, first crop so smooth.

Just on the side note I read down below about taking to long to tie, one baler to another. If the bale turns the same speed in the baler it will take each baler the same time to put the same amount of wraps on the bale. Some guys like to throttle down when tying and on a JD,,, because it is hydraulic hooked to the baler PTO, it will drastically slow down the tie arm. I used 1000 pto and ran 4230JD at 2200 rpm. Believe pto is at 1900-2000???

Tx Jim · May 13, 2015

(quoted from post at 17:17:13 05/12/15)
On the vermeer I controlled the speed of the twine arm.I started on one end of the bale and run 3 wraps then spiral 10-11 wraps across the bale then 3 wraps on the end,pull twine arm and done in under 1 min.
With the damn JD i could take a bloody nap.

Did you ever try to adjust the valve on the JD twine pump to speed up twine arms? 10 to 11 wraps on a 5 ft wide bale isn't much twine.

bison · May 13, 2015

(quoted from post at 16:40:53 05/13/15)

(quoted from post at 17:17:13 05/12/15)
On the vermeer I controlled the speed of the twine arm.I started on one end of the bale and run 3 wraps then spiral 10-11 wraps across the bale then 3 wraps on the end,pull twine arm and done in under 1 min.
With the damn JD i could take a bloody nap.

Click to expand...

Did you ever try to adjust the valve on the JD twine pump to speed up twine arms? 10 to 11 wraps on a 5 ft wide bale isn't much twine.

No twine pump on 567.Twine arm is an electric screw motor and monitor adjusted and controlled for wrapping.13 wraps incl end wraps is plenty twine for me, i feed it to my own cows anyway and transport is only 1/2 mile to 3/4 mile.
Other problem i have is when i kick a bale outa the baler the end of the twine has a tendency to unroll. when i come to pick the bale up with loader the loose twine gets trapped under the front wheels and rips the twine of the bale...big PITA.
I seldom had that happen with the vermeer

Tx Jim · May 14, 2015

I failed to see that you have a 567 as this thread was about a 535. If both bales from Vermeer & JD rd balers are spinning at close to same speed there is no way 2(two) twine arms will take as long to apply twine as one twine arm.

I agree that I dislike the frizzly,ripped way that a JD rd baler rips the twine leaving frazzled ends to catch on plant stems and unroll the twine. No frizzled ends is another advantage of surface wrap.

bison · May 14, 2015

(quoted from post at 03:32:04 05/14/15)
I failed to see that you have a 567 as this thread was about a 535. If both bales from Vermeer & JD rd balers are spinning at close to same speed there is no way 2(two) twine arms will take as long to apply twine as one twine arm.

I agree that I dislike the frizzly,ripped way that a JD rd baler rips the twine leaving frazzled ends to catch on plant stems and unroll the twine. No frizzled ends is another advantage of surface wrap.

el i don't know how fast the JD bale turns as one can't see a thing in that enclosed shoe box.

Surface wrap may be easier and wrap faster but with our winter it is a PITA to get it of the bale and no place to store the used bulk on the tractor when feeding 15-20 bales at the time like i do.

RE: hayrack's JD 535 rd baler

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