Drive clutch replacement on Cyclo 800

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
Anyone had to do this? The clutch has been adjusted all the way down from appearances yet I was still having some slippage where the drum stopped turning. From experience with older drills and such I have found that this usually means that either the driver or driven side of the clutch is starting with or already has worn teeth. How hard is it to get this apart and check/replace the parts inside the housing? Appreciate any help.
 
Everything turns freely, all chains to the insecticide boxes if you have any, also the shaft in the insecticide box. If one starts to seize some it affects the drive to the drum.
 
Had to come back this morning an finish what I was going to type, had a thunderstorm to close for comfort to be on computer. LOL Any who, with the planter up, take a wrench and see how hard it is to turn the shaft at the transmission. Also when I plant with mine, I let it down to plant then raise it just slightly, just enough to put down pressure on the tires. If I don't then the drum does not go round smoothly.
 
Put strips of 1" door insulation between the dimples on the drum. The kind that comes on a roll and is sticky on one side.
Did it on mine this year and makes a big difference in how smooth the drum turns.
Make sure the clutches have lubrication so they slide in and out of gear easily.
 
Couple of good ideas without replacing the clutch. Went out there today and cleaned the whole business well. Give it a little grease at the zerks. Hoping it will keep it turning smoothly. I am only using the planter function this year. Fertilizing in a separate run because I don't need much per the soil tests.
 

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