resurrecting a baler from the dead

Brian806 · Apr 25, 2015

So I found a international 440 ALL TWINE baler it's been a few years
since she made a bale! I know a lot of people hate ih baler but I have
it and I like red and I'm gonna make it run! So for the ones who have
used one what should I check out maybe replace from the get go even b4
I mow a field in less than a couple months! It's rusty but everything
seems to be moving like it should!

old · Apr 25, 2015

Does not matter which brand you have but the one thing to be 100% sure of it having the twine knifes good and sharp

Charlie M · Apr 25, 2015

I've got a 46 and lots of people hate those but mine has worked fine for me. The trick to mine and probably yours is to get a manual and learn what makes a bad knot, then fix it. I think the knotter on a 440 was an improved knotter over a 46.

rankrank1 · Apr 25, 2015

I would cut apart a few bales and hand feed to make sure the baler is going to work well in advance of having hay on the ground ready to bale. That is what I did when I brought an old NH 65 baler back from the dead.

If you do not have any bales to hand feed you could also cut a small strip of field and bale it up wet. If the baler ties simply cut your bales wet bales apart, spread em back out, and let em dry for rebale 2,3, to 3 days later. Or if you have animals then simply feed it to them immediately.

Once you know it works then cut your field. Having the operator manual is a must.

pete 23 · Apr 25, 2015

I got involved down below several posts about balers. The all twine is good knotter if up to snuff but I never worked on enough of them to pinpoint some of their quirks. I did a whole lot of tying knots with no hay in the chamber, BUT , you want to have twine in and good tension duplicating a bale pulling twine in the chamber. I usually pulled and held twine by hand but sometimes would hook a long spring onto twines when I wanted to watch the needles more closely. Of course, I also turned them by hand a billion times also watching each faze of the tying cycle.

ejr-IA. · Apr 25, 2015

Lube every thing up.Run it buy hand through it's cycle make sure the needles don't hit and the plunger brake works. Put new twine knives in.A manual would be a thing to get a hold of.Have a 430 all twine with wide pickup has been a good bailer.

showcrop · Apr 25, 2015

As others have said get a manual and go through all of the adjustments in it. It will give you specs for virtually everything. Get three bales of hay, dry mulch, straw or whatever is cheap and test test test. Then you can be confident with it. Don't dream of feeding any hay into it that is not dry, as it will have much more resistance going through than dry hay, so that you will end up pulling it out by hand.

Dick2 · Apr 25, 2015

Study everything that you can find about setting the timing and adjusting the knotters. Not many old timers around that ran binders that can show you things so learn the best that you can. McCormick binders were popular and baler knotters are very similar.

Richard G. · Apr 25, 2015

Son used one till this year. Try buying parts for it. Local dealer says not much available. Knotters are NLA. Knives cost more than the baler is worth.
Richard in NW SC

donjr · Apr 25, 2015

I had one some thirty years ago, and it was a decent baler, but a real PITA when it decided to mis-tie. The knots are different from most balers in the NH and JD lines, and leave two little rabbit ears on the bale after it's tied. You might try Fry's for parts, if they even have them. Those knotters frames are getting hard to find in decent shape, and Fry may be making a few new ones.....

JMS/.MN · Apr 25, 2015

Polish the bill hooks....no rust.

billyar · May 4, 2015

New twine knives for sure and a spare in the tool box.

resurrecting a baler from the dead

Brian806

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old

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Charlie M

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rankrank1

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pete 23

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ejr-IA.

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showcrop

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Dick2

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Richard G.

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donjr

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JMS/.MN

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billyar

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