2x14 plow hitch adjustment

36 A

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I can't move my wheel in any further so the hitch won't line up with draft center line . is it better to pull from the draft center line of the plow and move the swinging draw bar ? Or move the hitch over . problem is the plow is pulling crooked .it has nice land slides I know it don't help till the plow shines up better .lots of factors I know. My plow hitch is bout 4 inches over to the land side and the wheels are lined up . Let me have it , lets here what ya got .
 

Drawbar MUST be Centered..

Adjust the Plow Hitch to pull with the Drawbar Centered..that is called "Off-Hitching" and most old plows

can be adjusted for this...(assuming you have a "Pull-Type" Plow )...

Our JD "B" tractors always have the rear wheels set at 29" from inside of the tire to the Center of the tractor and

the JD Plow works as nice as can be...

Sounds like you have a Rusty Plow..??? Keep scraping the stuck soil off the Moldboards until the soil slides easily ..

You can use an Angle-Grinder (4 1/2" Diameter) with a thin Cut-off disc, held at about a 30 degree angle (wear a Mask and safety glasses) and it will take the Rust off and not scratch the steel at all...then the surface will "Scour" just fine..

THEN, don't let it get rusty again...!!!!

Ron..
 
It's off hitched draw bar centered now .so we wait looking like rain now . I have the bottoms pretty smooth and in the upper part of the field it would roll nicely . We have a nice Chuck of sod for next weekend that will help . 830 and 5x14 that needs a shining to .
 

If rusty (badly rusted) the angle-grinder will save you much consternation..!!

If the soil is so wet the land-slides are drawing left into the furrow, it is just TOO wet to Plow..!!

I like extended Land-slides..I even welded an extension on the front landslide on my JD #44 plow and it pulls real straight..

I have the short extensions on all the bottoms of my F-145 4x16 and F-145 3x16" + Mouldboard extensions and Cover-Boards.

Same on my AC Plows..
 
On a plow of that size forget about the draft hitch centerline, that does not work. Think about the Farmall F20 series with the wide wheel tread or the wide tread John Deere GP tractors that pulled a 2 bottom plow with a 80" wheel tread. You must hitch to drawbar in center of tractor. then you adjust the cross bar on the plow to where you can get the hitch bar and the brace bar to where they need to be for what ever wheel tread with you have. That works on all except the Oliver plows that do not have the cross bar the hitch hooks to and they can hardly be hooked to a wider tread tractor. They will work OK on a 56-60" tread tractor but not on a 70" tread tractor. And on the instructions for setting that draft centerline they use tread width that is center of tire to center of tire and not to inside edge of tire, That is not considered. The center of the tire should be centered in the furrow no mater width of tire as long as the tire fits in the furrow. I started plowing with pull type plows back about 1957.
 
(quoted from post at 21:24:20 04/18/15) . is it better to pull from the draft center line of the plow and move the swinging draw bar ? Or move the hitch over.

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You'll have equal amounts of trouble whether you "off-hitch" on the tractor or "off-hitch" the plow. You have to "divide the side draft" like the old operator manuals say. Here is what that means: Refer to the above diagram. Point A, the dynamic center of gravity of the tractor, is what it is, it doesn't move. Point C, the center of load, or draft, of the plow, is what it is, it can't be controlled. It can shift around with different soil conditions. The correct adjustment of the tractor and plow hitches is to get point B, where the plow and tractor connect, to fall on a line made from A to C.

If you don't, you create a moment, or torque, about point A which will translate into the front of the tractor being pulled to one side or the other. How many times have you seen that at a plow day, someone fighting the steering wheel? The first INCORRECT example you will see point B centered on the tractor which will pull the front of the tractor to the left. The right INCORRECT example shows point B centered on the plow which will pull the front of the tractor to the right. The biggest thing to me is don't lose sleep over getting this set up correct in the farm yard. Understand it so you know how to adjust it in the field. And what's the big deal? You waste a lot of tractor power with the front wheels sliding like that, and you wear yourself out fighting the steering wheel.

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The same principle applies to having a wide plow hooked to a narrow tractor. The above pic shows both cases.

Leroy's example is a good one: a little two bottom behind a wide F20. That is a fairly extreme case and yet that plow was expected to pull straight. Properly adjusted with good landsides, a plow should pull straight regardless of off-hitching. If your plow isn't pulling straight you could have worn landsides, worn shares that aren't pulling the plow into the ground, tail wheel misadjusted, or your vertical hitch is too flat which isn't pulling the rear of the plow into the ground. The hitch attached too high on the plow or too low on the tractor can create a hitch that is "too flat". This condition pulls up on the rear of the plow; landsides can't hold the plow if they aren't in the ground.

If the plow is getting down to depth properly, you can then adjust your tail wheel to get the plow to pull straight. If you have a "rolling landside" like on a #52 or #4B you may have to get creative. Not having a horizontal adjustment to a tail wheel (like a Moline or a rolling landside on a #52) was just silly, in my opinion.
 

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