Dad and I bought an IH #46 baler Saturday at an auction without looking over it completely. When the auctioneer dropped into scrap price dad bid on it. After it was ours I noticed needles were MIA. Knotters look clean and not wore out and the whole machine appears to be in good shape overall and always shedded. Bale chamber is clean and not rusted out. Burgh Equipment has needles for $150/pair. We're planning on completely going through the knotters and cleaning and checking all the timing before we try baling with it. I've looked at Binder Books and there are a total of 9 different manuals and parts books for this thing, which are going to be the most valuable? I was thinking Operator Manual, Set-up manual, and knotter service manual.
- Thread starter DLMKA
- Start date
Traditional Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Virginia
If you can get an IH baler to actually tie bales consistently then you'll be done
better than 99% of the owners of them I've known.
better than 99% of the owners of them I've known.
Richard G.
Well-known Member
77 is plenty of tractor for that baler.
As T Farmer said, good luck with the knotters and finding parts.
Son's 440 did good for a long time, but parts are NLA.
Richard in NW SC
As T Farmer said, good luck with the knotters and finding parts.
Son's 440 did good for a long time, but parts are NLA.
Richard in NW SC
Cory Schmidt
Well-known Member
We already ran a 47 (next size bigger) on a Farmall H. A 77 Ollie shouldn't be a problem.
My brother said at one time they hooked it on the C. That didn't work to well, the movement of the plunger bounced the tractor :lol:
parisspringstom
Member
I ran one for several years. Finally parked it after I got a new holland 268. One right knotter gave me fits every
year. I had to keep it lubed well to keep it going. It always seemed like it need limbered up well when you first
used it and was very sensitive to hay conditions.
year. I had to keep it lubed well to keep it going. It always seemed like it need limbered up well when you first
used it and was very sensitive to hay conditions.
Jim in Ma.
Well-known Member
Dad had a 46 when I was young. It's a great machine to teach kids how to tie a square not on the fly.
If you plan on going through the knotters, I would strongly recommend you go with some of the latest parts used on the 37 & 47 balers. Two examples is the tapered drive shaft and gear on cord holders and the twine end retainer spring. The cord holder disks timing determine the setting of the twine knife and the tapered shaft allows for infinite adjustment. Original ones were just changed with shims or new parts and very limited. Do a lot of hand turning of flywheel while watching every aspect of the knot tying cycle from needle timing, clearance over disk, needle has to touch knotter frame to stabilize it etc. Twine tension is very important and the single most important thing is the bale density. That twine has to move between the bale as bale is formed. If you try to pack that bale too tight it will pull the twine out of disk during tying cycle too early and you are done. Besides, hay rots if too tight which you well know. The rest of a IH 46 baler is well made. Actually better than a lot of newer ones, even the one armed New Holland,(that should bring some replies). Bale away. OH YAA. The needles probably got baled due to worn out and maladjusted needle brake or possibly plunger stop adjustment or worn out.
You get only two opinions here about a model 46 - either people have been successful with them or they hate them. I have one and do about 1200 bales per year and only miss 3-4 per season. They will tie if set up right but everything has to be right and stay that way. The knotter is way less forgiving than other balers.You definitely want the knotter manual and spend some time with it. Things to look for include sharp cutting knives, missing hay retainer springs and the right tension set to pull the knot off the twine hooks. Thin spots in twine will cause a problem. I use 9600 sisal in mine but always thought the 7600 would be best - its hard to find around here.Probably a lot of those old balers in salvage yards with needles for sale. I use an M on mine and it works fine.
Bruce from Can.
Well-known Member
- Location
- Woodville, Ontario, Canada
I have had both a 46IH and a 47IH sq baler,both with throwers, and they work fine. best to keep a constant
windrow of hay going into the baler for best results. Like all machines , these balers get old, and are in
there 50's now. I think Pet who posted early on has the best advice, be sure to check the break on the end of
the knotter that controls the needles, and the plunger stop block.
windrow of hay going into the baler for best results. Like all machines , these balers get old, and are in
there 50's now. I think Pet who posted early on has the best advice, be sure to check the break on the end of
the knotter that controls the needles, and the plunger stop block.
I have a 46 baler that my dad bought new in 1959 or 60. It probably has baled over a 100,000 bales and still works good. I still bale about 50 straw bales every year with it and it never misses a bale. I don't remember that we had to do any major repairs to it other than changing the twine knives every so often. I know some folks had trouble with these but we certainly didn't. My dad traded in an IH 45 he bought new which gave him a lot of trouble. And your 77 Oliver will easily pull it as we also had an Oliver 770 on it from time to time. Al
I have 0 experience with IH balers, but my father who farmed the best part of 87 years warned me to never buy an older IH baler period! He was the type of man that did not say something unless he knew what he was talking about. I could just tell by the tone of his voice , and some of the choice adjectives he used to describe IH balers that buying an IH baler was never to be mentioned again! Mind you this was coming from a man who wore out two Allis Roto balers, and was basically semi-retired, before I finally talked him into buying a NH square baler. Sorry about being so negative about your baler, and obviously this is just my "taught opinion"
Do a search on here for that baler and you should find more information. I have one and have asked about it here and gotten almost the exact same replies! When it works, it works great and when it don't....well, you'll learn a few new words.
As much as I hate to use plastic twine, my knotters do work much better with it. I believe it is some what abrasive and the worn out twine holders grip it better. Good luck
As much as I hate to use plastic twine, my knotters do work much better with it. I believe it is some what abrasive and the worn out twine holders grip it better. Good luck
Seems like there are two camps of people for sure. Seems the IH knotter is much more sensitive to cleanliness, timing, lubrication, and general maintenance than a JD or NH knotter.
I'm pretty good at mechanical things so with the manuals and a little patience I should be able to get it to work acceptably well for my 6 acres of alfalfa/grass hay and maybe a couple acres of straw if I can find some. I'm looking at tying maybe 1000 bales/year.
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