spraying newbie

So the only thing I don't do myself on the farm right now is spraying the crops. I don't feel comfortable doing the mixing of special/expensive chemicals so I will leave that to my custom guy but im thinking about doing my own roundup burndowns and maybe 24d on pasture and hay fields.

So im just a small guy with a couple hundred acres so im thinking a 100 or 150 gallon sprayer would be fine for me.

So im seeing most of this size sprayer has a pto driven pump. The question is, do I run the pto a full 540? and how fast do I drive?
 
If the sprayer has a 540 rpm pump, it will need to run at 540. Your speed will depend on a number of factors, which you will need to know in advance to calculate the correct speed. These factor include:
1. Nozzle size
2. Nozzle spacing
3. Boom pressure
4. Total gallons per acre you wish to apply.
Changing any one of these factors will require changing at least one other factor to compensate for the change.
I don't know where you are, but your local extension service or ag college should be able to provide you with detailed information for calibrating sprayers.
 
As Tom says.....This is my spray 'program'.8002 nozzles,30psi,5 mph equals just under 10 gpa. (I call it an even 10,easier that way). My trailer type has a 100 gal tank,that lets me spray 10 acres per tank.I use a Super H tractor. 3rd gear at full throttle is exactly 5mph.Just mix the specified amount from the label.Do the math.There is some margin of error.Dont be alarmed if your mix is not perfect. Acctually pretty easy.I spray about 70 acres corn annually.Talk to you local agricultural chemical supplier.
 
Steve I was like you years ago about spraying, We have a 200 gallon sprayer witch will cover 10 acres at a fill up. I takes 20 gallon of water per acre to spray it right. The biggest problem we had was time and the lack of it. After the last crop we sprayed that didn't work right, I made the call to park the sprayer and have someone else do it. It would take me 2 days to do one 75 acre farm and the spray guy 2 1/2 hours, In out and done and it was done when it needed to be done.

This is the way I look at it. I don't have to get a license to buy the chemicals and spray, I don't have to carry insurance to cover what I am doing in case of an accident, I don't have to worry about burning a crop up and taking a loss that's on the spray guy and if it does not kill the weeds it on the spray guy to make it right. And best of all I don't have to maintain a sprayer anymore, Every year I know I spent $150 to $200 a year on tubing sprayer tips and fittings and hose clamps fix the pump or anything else. Now I make a phone call and tell him what I have and what I want done. The $5 an acre he charges to spray turns into a tax deduction for hired work. And the truly best part I am not exposed to those chemicals like I use to be. I would check your insurance policy to see if it covers you spraying and if you have a spill will it pay for the clean up and pay damages? It will be a has-mat clean up by the way. Bandit
 
A lot of 300 gallon, 40 foot, old sprayers out there, cheap. You only have to put on 100 gallons if that's all you need, but sure is nice to fill and get something done when you need to get something done.....

I find 12 gallons an acre works well with the common sprays used on corn, beans, pasture.

You set up your sprayer tips, ground speed, and pump speed to make your gallons per acre, and be consistent.

I find 3/4 throttle works fine on my setup with what I have. When I rebuilt my pump I had to change a bit. The sprayer has a regulator, but still I had to throttle back a few 100 rpm. Likewise if you put new tips on, will need to adjust a bit.

It is a balancing act, you just have to do a few tanks and find out.

Seems scary at first, but there is room for a bit of trial and error.

Paul
 
I know I sound like a broken record whenever this comes up,but go to your county extension office and get the CORE Pesticide Applicators Manual. It's just plain irresponsible not to.
 
I can't agree more. I am currently studying to take my pesticide license exam and bought all the materials this year. For under $100 I got the full manual plus suplements for orchard, berries and vegetable spraying. Lots of handy information in those books.

Also, make sure what you plan on spraying does not require an applicators license, hence why I am now getting mine.
 
I have a small acre plot that I plant to pumpkins every year. I spray it with roundup in the spring and calibrate my spray on that. I determine the gear and rpm on the sprayer tractor to determine how much water per acre and go from there.
Its old school but simple and works for me.
 
don't bother with a 150. gal sprayer unless you want to stop and fill up all the time--time consuming. find a 300 gal pull type
 
(reply to post at 03:45:18 03/02/15) Get a 300 gallon sprayer then you will spend your time spraying instead of filling. You can fill 50-100 gallons if needed. Get a TeeJett book from a chemical dealer has lots of good info in it.
 
(reply to post at 03:45:18 03/02/15) Get a 300 gallon sprayer then you will spend your time spraying instead of filling. You can fill 50-100 gallons if needed. Get a TeeJett book from a chemical dealer has lots of good info in it.
 
Do you keep a current copy or are you still using the 1954 edition? If I ever stop by your place I am going to ask to see it. Just kidding, of course, because I agree with you 100%. Don't ever apologize for keeping someone safe. I appreciated it last year and I am sure he appreciates it today.
 
I've got an old one,but probably 94 not 54. I need to get a new one. When we do the review sessions before the test,there are a few things that have been updated.
What did a new manual cost you,$10?
 
OK...you caught me! I don't have it yet. We called. No one knew what we were asking for. I think I asked you about it again about a month ago...needed a title or such. Found it for sale thru MSU...but it was a bit more than $10! December and January pretty tight around here and I won't be reading it until April so I put it off. Maybe I looked up the wrong title? If you can send me a link to it, I will order it. Extension here in Livingston County claimed they had never heard of such a thing.
 
Here's the link. $30 now. I think I paid $5. I have two. I went back and got a new one when I took the test the second time but there wasn't any change,of course that was probably in the early 90s if not before.
CORE
 
Are you talking 3 point hitch or trailer mounted tank? Remember water weights 8.4 pounds per gallon. I don't know what size tractor you have, but I couldn't handle more than 100 gallons on the back of my tractor and keep the front end on the ground.
 
I was thinking a 3pt one but depending on what I find a bigger trail type could work to. As for the weight, im not worried about that to much, ive got 20, 35, 65, 85, and 120hp tractors to work with.
 
Minnesota de emphasised the book, and went to informational meetings every 3 years.

They felt a live training was something us farmers would pay more attention to.

And it was good, the first two training classes I went to.

The last one, it was fast, dry, and had no info, was just put in the 3 hours and get the signature. That's too bad, they had a good idea there.

Paul
 
You can go to meetings here and get points for attending. You need to have so many points over a three year period to recertify without taking the test. The trick is remembering to check and see when there's a meeting that offers points.
 
Thanks! I bookmarked the page. I'll order it for April. Probably get lost if it shows up here now. I knew that was around $30. Bit of a sticker shock first time I pulled it up. I only spray glyphosphate currently. Likely do a little 2-4-D this year. Guess I need to read it but prolly gonna scare the pants off me.
 

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