gumming a circular saw blade ?

I am going to "Gum" ((Recess) the tips of my 28" X 10 teeth, buzzsaw blade. Here is one site I visited http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/gumming-saws.html
The site recommends a indexed machine, with a small circular grinder, to get precision and balance. It also states about .007 clearance.
Can I do the gumming on this non carbide saw blade, using a rat tail file, with an arbor mounted on my bench, with a vise holding the teeth ? Do I need a template to get near precision? Can anyone send me a template drawing, for this size saw blade ? I would use chalk and a scribe mark.
Should I have this done by some service?
I have 6 years in as a "machinest, with use of indexing, on a "vertical shapper"

Charles Krammin SW MI
 
Charles, When I have done mine, I use a 4 inch grinder and do it by "feel and sight". It ain't rocket science. Getting the set is as important as the gum. Think about how they were done 100 years ago.
Richard in NW SC
 
Thanks,
That's what I will do. .062 set each way using feeler gage and tooth in vise, or vice grips.
1/2" rat tail file, deep enough to get rid of square file marks, about .010", on cutting edge only.
Saw is sharp and even depth, from PO.
Charles Krammin SW MI
 
"Gumming" is the process of creating a circular relief of the cutting teeth of a circular saw. this is done, because when sharping a non carbide teeth front, with a flat file, it cuts into the bottom of the back tooth, which is a sharp corner, which weakens the blade. This circular area also is where the sawdust moves, before the sawdust is throw out, at the end of the cut.
I used a 1/2 inch "rattail file", to gum my 28 inch diameter crosscut circular saw blade. I filed enough to remove any sharp cuts from the flat filing and enough into the tooth area, so the next time I sharpened the teeth with the flat file, it would not cut into the bottom of the teeth (about 20 thousands .020). I will not have to "Gum" again for about 2 or 3 flat filling.
The size of the gum is determined by the diameter of the saw blade (Mine 28 inch diameter) and the number of teeth (My saw blade has 10 teeth per foot).
This number of teeth also determines the "Set" (End of teeth cutting wider than blade width, so blade does not "pinch" and heat up the saw blade, which can cause it to "wobble"). Saw mill blades even require more work, to keep from wobbling, than my "Buzz saw blade", shich I am not qualified to discuss, or do.
. In my saw I bent out each tooth (one way and the next tooth the other way) about .030 thousands, using a large adjustable end wrench. The thickness of my saw blade is 1/8 inch. I used a flat piece of steel and a "feeler guage", to get the teeth near uniform.

I hope I explained the above in non technical terms as a farmer cutting wood and that the demensions are not from a technical book, and maybe not correct, but that I believe this is what is needed for my blade to cut correctly, safely.

Charles Krammin SW Michigan
Dad and my brothers, made me catch the cut wood, when I was 10, in the 50's. I now cross cut sawmill wood for the steam engines (with my Ferguson "cord wood saw") at Charlton Park"
 

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