John Deere No.44 Trip Plow Problem

Jim R

Member
I have an old John Deere No.44 Rope Trip Plow. The plow has been sitting for a while. I just tried to use it and it tripped to drop the moldboards and start plowing but now it won't trip to raise the moldboards back up. When you pull the lever, it doesn't do anything. Is there any way to get the trip to work besides taking the whole wheel and gearbox apart? I am new to this plow so just thought I would ask all you John Deere guys out there. Thanks for any advise!
 
NO. Grease/dird mixture is turned solid and cold makes it worse yet. Quick temp. fix would be set a salamander aimed at it for a half hour or so.
 
I assume you know that the plow has to be rolling for it to lift? It will go from the "transport" to "working" position using gravity, however the left wheel MUST be rolling in order for it to lift...

Bryce
 
Are you on the move or are you pulling it wit hit just sitting there??? They have to be pulled to the trip to work both up and down. They will fall down with out moving but will not go back up unless moving forward. So fill in the blanks
 
May be necessary to disassemble lift mechanism to clean out old grease and dirt. Best done with manual at your side.
 
Yep,all are correct.You must have foreward motion to make things 'work'.There is probably old hard grease and dirt,and possibly a broken spring in there.A complete dissasembly and cleaning will be required.A book will be helpful.
 
Had the same thing happen a few years ago with a #52 JD plow. Yep, just tore it apart on the spot. Lots of old solidified grease and dirt and a broken spring. After cleanup and repairs it works fine. I think the lift mechanism is basically the same on the 44 and 52 plows.
 
Completely different clutch, the 52 is the open style clutch that depends just on grease and dirt can get in without problems. The 44 is an enclosed run in oil type of clutch that cannot get the dirt in . So I think it is more likely a broken part inside than gummed up dirt and grease. Parts list breakdown is avaible for free on Deeres site.
 
Thanks for all the responses! YES, I was moving while trying to get the plow to trip again and raise up! I figured I'd end up taking things apart to see what's going on inside that gearbox, but just wanted to ask the advise of some of you with more plow experience! I really appreciate all the advise! thanks again!
 
Just checked parts book and there are 2 springs inside the clutch casing and likely one has broken. Does not sound like a lack of good lubrication or dirt.
 
Hey, Leroy. I don't profess to be an expert on anything, but according to the PC-253-(1-58) parts book for the #52 plow, page 20 has the breakdown for the 1 and 2 bottom 51 and 52 "enclosed clutch". Page 18 has the breakdown of parts for the 1 and 2 bottom 51 and 52 "open-type clutch". So....what gives? I have what I identified as a 52 two bottom that has the enclosed clutch.
 
I had 2 of the 52 plows and both were open clutch, the 4B early had an open clutch also, later was changed to the closed clutch. Never heard of a 52 with a closed clutch. I have not looked at the manual to see that. So I know nothing about that, only what I have seen. Must have been the last year or 2 that the 52 was made same as the 4B. I did have a 44 as well but it was cylinder lift. and a 55 with cylinder lift.
 
Could you post a picture as I have never seen one? Does yours have factory rubber tires as well? Heard of then but also never seen them
 
Mine is on steel and if I post a picture now all you will see is 2 levers. The snow is about 4 feet deep in my back yard. On the bright side it was above 0 this morning.
 
I agree with Randy B . A quick and easy fix may be to warm up the lift. Once you take these apart they are a real mess inside.
 
I have a 44 too that doesn't get used often. Sometimes when the lift lever is stiff I have to put an elastic bungee from it back to the plow frame to help the lever "return" Ive had trouble with that and when it is in the extreme high position sometimes the plow doesn't want to drop and I have to tap the lift linkage with the hammer to get the cam over center. I switched to corn head grease too to keep it from getting too stiff in the lift box. Usually after I free it up for the season it works normally after the initial "unstick"
 

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