Parts for disc harrow

I'm in the process of rebuilding one gang of my disc harrow. Problem is, I have no idea who the manufacturer of the harrow is. I've been unable to find any identification numbers and there's no paint to give me any idea of brand. What I'm needing is a spool piece to replace one that's broken but I haven't been able to find the specific size I need. I've taken some pics of the damaged spool piece with a tape and calipers measuring the piece. What company do you recommend I contact to see if this size piece is available? Thanks.
 
Try shoup you might get lucky and find somebody willing to take the time measure and try to help you . Forget a dealer unless you have a good friend there they will want every number you can imagine and still won't be able to find it if you can find somebody willing to even talk to you
 
Also post some pics of the disc on here as alsmot always somebody owns one like it or has owned one like it
 
As long as you have one for a pattern, you can make one out of pipe. Large heavy wall pipe with cookies welded in the ends, and drilled per shaft diameter.
 
Post a pic of the disk here. The hitch, and the way it adjusts angle, and the scrapers are all clues as to the brand, if you get those in the pics.

Shoup is a good supplier of disk parts, but you don't have a lot to go on so far....

Paul
 
I have a machine shop at my disposal but the problem is the square thru hole for the squared shaft. It would require a LOT of machining time to build inserts for a squared shaft which is why these parts were cast to begin with most likely.
 
Have made my spools also. Cut the square hole with a torch and grind smooth. Press the center down so it is somewhat concave to match the disc. Weld a piece of pipe between two of them and you have a spacer. Not rocket science.
 
some of that stuff is pretty much universal to many different disks. All state ag parts stocks some of it. nnalert tractor parts should have it. They are in Indianola Iowa.
 
You do not need a square hole, just make it round just so it slides over the axle. Tightenning the nut on the axle is what would hold everything in place wether it has a round or square hole..
 
I'm a former tooling engineer so I completely understand how to hand-craft a simple part such as a spool. Due to the relatively short length of spool that I need (4.5"), I'd like to have more spool-to-axle engagement than 1/4" or so on each end of the spool that I would have if I were to use the "pipe" method. If I can find a spool that's longer than what I need, I can throw it in the lathe and trim it down. Also, the inexpensive cost of most spools that I've researched so far prevents me from wanting to build one on my own unless it's unavailable from any source. I've replaced all the blades and other worn parts on this gang so I'd like to go back to something as close to original as I can.
 
Shaft size is 1.25"
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The blades are what keep it from turning, not the spacers-spools. Get it together and put the weight on the blades to hold them while you tighten.
 
Sure, that would work to tighten the nut but to loosen is a different story. Three of the five blades were missing (broken) so there were only two left on this particular gang. It took a large pipe wrench on the only spool that wasn't damaged to prevent the axle from turning and a wrench with cheater pipe on the nut to loosen. Had the spools had a round hole, I wouldn't have been able to hold the axle. I'd rather not take a chance on this being the case several years from now when/if I lose blades again.

I've sent agri supply the pics that I posted on here so hopefully they'll reply with a part that will fit properly.
 
What size nut is that so you just cannot replace the nut with a new one? Must be an odd size. Last spring I rebuilt both a old Dunham and a Massey Harris disks that might not have ever been apart in 60 or more years. To get them off I just took an angle grinder with a 4 1/2" cutting blade and cut the nut with the cut just against the threads on the axle, second cut a sixth of the way around and they came off them easy and then I used my thread file to clean up the threads for the new nut. Those nuts I just went to Rual King and bought buy by the pound nuts off the shelf. Need to do a second Dunham this spring and also a Dearborn, the Dearborn was dissambled when I got it and no nuts with it so I will have to hunt for them. Will need 4 1" fine thread for that. And that Dearborn has a round axle in with round holes in the spools. Blades also round hole. Almost every disk if you measure the blade spacing if you think they are the same when you set a spool from eash side by side you will find one is just a bit longer than the other. Shoup has replacement round axles for disks in their catalog along with some round hole spools.
 
Yes, cutting the 1.25" nut and replacing with a new nut would work. Guess I'd just rather use a couple wrenches to break the nut loose rather than have to cut and touch up threads. To each their own I suppose.

I was able to locate a spool that will fit my square shaft. A friend had a pile of old harrow parts and was able to find spool that is almost exactly a match to what I have. It's about an inch longer so a few minutes in the lathe will make it fit perfectly.
 
For my Oliver disc I bought John Deere spools and removed some from both ends to match the Oliver length. Simple lathe job to make new spools since you have a pattern though. It would even be stronger than the cast spools you could buy even though not needed.
 
What kind of bearings does it have I have seen really old horse drawn ones with hard wood block bearings, cast spool bearings , and later ball bearings. If it has any original discs left on it a lot of the manufacturers used to stamp their logo and part number on the disc wheel if you wire wheel the corrosion off it might come up. Hope this helps.T.J.
 
Look at some of the Case IH stuff they have an offset spool like that for the bearing. Might even just change it over to a different spool. They make them for a 7.5 inch spacing. That would solve the issue and give you current production parts. They use a round hole with a sleeve that goes through it for the bearing to slide over this keeps the bearing aligned with the spool. When tight the tension is on the edge of the bearing race. The bearings are available through Shoups and are greaseable.
 

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