New Holland Flywheel Refresh

The only bearing/bushing parts for my NH68 that I do not have in hand for the plunger drive line is the center flywheel bushing. Before I tear into replace it, I need to take out the shear bolt and see if the flywheel is really wobbly - if not, then I'll leave it alone. I have to believe, given the age of this baler it needs changed.

Question - how difficult a repair is this bushing (aside from the shear weight of the flywheel) ? Anyone tackled this job?

Press fit - do I need a machine shop for this repair?

Also read on a few posts that there is a brass bushing on the flywheel where the shear bolt passes? Looking at the parts diagram, it looks like NH calls it a sleeve. Is this a wear item? Anyone replacing this?

Slip clutch - am I asking for trouble when I take it off the flywheel - i.e rusted bolts, etc?

There's a joke that says - How do you know when you're getting old? Answer: When you are down on the floor fixing something and you ask yourself - is there anything else I can do while I'm down here!

If I pull the flywheel - anything else I ought to be doing while I've got it off?

Any other tips or tricks for refreshing the flywheel on my NH68 would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill

I realy dont believe bushing in flywheel could need replacement. The only time flywheel turns on bushing is when s shear pin shears. I dont think I would worry about it.

I second what Bob says. And, as long as the shear bolt fits fairly snug, that one should be okay also. Had to make a shear bolt bushing for a neighbor's IH baler last year. Good excuse to use my meager skills on the lathe.

Garry.

I replaced the flywheel bushing on my NH282 baler a couple years ago because it would "wear out" shear bolts. It helped quite a bit in my case, see if your flywheel wobbles at all on bushing. On the 282 I put the bushing in myself, a little challenge gettin old one out. Surprisingly the bushing cost around $100. As far as bushing in flywheel, I have changed that also if shear pin tends to loosten up. The arm the shear bolt drives also may get loose, mine is no longer available but has been much better since I changed flywheel bushing. I find if I tighten the shear bolt every couple rounds of baling it helps. If the bolt gets loose it will break, sometimes with no load at all on plunger.

Thanks for the replies!

Definitely going to check for wobble before I touch anything.

Bill

If I thought it might give me trouble I'd take it apart and take a look.Its a whole lot better to do it now when you have time than on a hot Summer afternoon with raked up hay and thunderheads rolling up.I keep a spare tractor hooked to a spare baler all the time in the Summer,cuts down on the stress level.

Bill,
Regarding your slip clutch - it shouldn't be a problem to take apart, but if you don't, at least loosen the bolts until you can turn the flywheel, then tighten them until it slips at the specified torque (the procedure will be in your manual)
When I first bought my baler it created an awful shock in the driveline every stroke of the plunger in turns. Come to find out, my slip clutch was frozen up.
Pete