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Discussion Forum

John Deere 14t baler trouble

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Don P

09-04-2001 18:54:00

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Just bought a JD 14T baler. Please help. Unit has not been in service for about 2 years. Having trouble with shearing pins, auger not pushing the hay on through, instead it just balls up. What do I need to look at? What adjustments need to be made? Is it possible that is just needs the spider webs ran out? Where are the bill hooks located? Please help me prove to my wife I made a good buy.

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09-10-2001 21:39:40

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 Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P , 09-04-2001 18:54:00  
I got a 24t, simialar to th 14 so I'll give oyu what I've learned. the pin shearing is probably from 2 things, dull knife on plunger, or the tension cramks are too tight. It could also beout of time (hitting the saftey stop) but you will know this as it has it's own distinctive sound, metal on metal, as for the feed, be sure augar isn't stuck in the "up" position, it should be close to the bottom but also "float" if crop is too heavey. on the knotters, the clearence between the needles and twine holder discs is important, the book explains this all very well. other than that, just keep everything lubed, and clean as possible, and shouldn' have much trouble

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09-07-2001 07:46:31

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 Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P , 09-04-2001 18:54:00  
I go along with most of the answers here. I used to own a 14T that looked like it had been through a demo derby. It still worked fine except for shearing flywheel pins a lot. Finally the parts guy asked me if I had sharpened the plunger knife lately. Made a big, big difference.

The owners manual and parts book are cheap enough but worth their weight in gold.

Properly adjusted and maintained a 14T will do a lot of work. They do have a capacity limit though.

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09-06-2001 16:36:08

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 Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P , 09-04-2001 18:54:00  
We have baled almost 5000 bales this year with a 14T, they are good balers. A couple of years ago we had a problem shearing pins on the fly wheel. It was caused by the plunger saftey brake getting hung up in the chamber after a knotting cycle and the plunger hitting it on the next cycle. The brake is located under the chamber and is de-activated by the arm that moves the needles. The bottom of the chamber had been hammered through by the brake stops, causing it to hang up. We widened the brake stop with an old door hinge and it has been working fine ever since.

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Don H

09-05-2001 19:37:37

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 Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P , 09-04-2001 18:54:00  
I know there are several who have already responded who think John Deere makes the baler that is the standard for all others, but I would like to add my experience with a 14T. In the late '50's my father bought a new 14T whick we used to bale hay for several years thereafter. The knotter never was satisfactory and it consistently missed tying anywhere from 1-5 bales per hundred. The dealer did everything possible to get that knotter to work but never was able to. Other than the knotter the baler was fine but we quickly learned to envy those who had IH or New Holland balers. I'm sure most John Deere balers are good or there wouldn't be so many who think they are, but I know from experience they aren't without their lemons too.

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09-05-2001 08:08:28

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 Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P, 09-04-2001 18:54:00  
I agree with all your suggestions, I use a 14t, myself every year, and you can bale dry hay, I have done it just to get it out of the field, I cant stress buying a book, I risked last year for 1/2 the season, tweaking it,, and got lucky, make sure the timing is set (very easy), and eveything is greased,, my problem was a little (very little) surface rust on the bill hooks not tying too good, and one cotter pin,, it works great now.. also one more suggestion you may check is the make sure the knife on the plunger is sharp, that could be your problem and also break a lot of shear pins. DO NOT, DO NOT, put a heaver shear pin, in,, find out where the bind is... take a grinder and sharpen the knives,, that is very important to cut the hay to in the chamber,... a 14t, is a great baler, (little small) but JD uses the same knotters for the last 30 years....I have had offers to sell mine just for parts for thier 336 etc.. good luck

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09-04-2001 22:01:53

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 Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P , 09-04-2001 18:54:00  
The dry hay, especially dry grass hay may be part of the problem. My uncle had a 14T at one time. They cut small "notches" in the auger fins , just a short hack saw cut, to help it pull hay in. Is there spring pressure on the auger up or down? an adjust ment there might help. If it hasn't been used in a while it may be the rust also. AS the first post suggests, an operator's manual is very valuable on any baler to get all the adjustments right. good luck with it.

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09-04-2001 20:39:32

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 Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P , 09-04-2001 18:54:00  
Please do yourself a favor and send to John Deere for the operators manual. It is a really good book which descibes the complete tying cycle and how to check everything, and I mean everything for timing. I have the phone number at home so e-mail me if you want it. I have a 14T that I use every year.

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09-04-2001 19:42:11

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 Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P , 09-04-2001 18:54:00  
I've got a 14T. They are good balers - John Deere balers in general are good machines. The bill-hook is part of the knotter. It's the mechanism that grabs the string and makes the knot. They are on top of the baling chamber. I'm not sure why the hay would ball up - is it too wet? Pins shear for a lot of reasons. Is it out of time? Is the hay to wet and do you have too much compression on the bale? Take all the hay out of the chamber (a tough job) and run the baler by hand and see what you can find out. If it runs through one complete revolution of the plunger without the plunger hitting a stop then your timing is probably OK. Once that's not a problem, trip the knotter and see that the knotter mechanism works correctly. Try all that and let me know what happens. I may have more things for you to try after that depending on what you tell me.

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Don P

09-06-2001 06:55:07

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 Re: Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to mark, 09-04-2001 19:42:11  
I have run the plunger through one complete rev. by hand. Once I trip the knotters everything is fine until they start to return to home position. The plunger stop does not retract then it shears the pin. I found a spring that was broke on the plunger stop and fixed it but no difference. Am I out of time or does the stop need to be adjusted closer to the needle frame? I ordered a new om should be here in 2 weeks but that doesn't help me now. Luckily my mom has custom hay baled for 20 yrs and she knows quite a bit about how everything works but it has been a while since she worked on a baler.

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Don P

09-04-2001 19:57:19

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 Re: Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to mark, 09-04-2001 19:42:11  
Mark thanks so much for the reply. Very helpful. I would have to say my hay is too dry. My brother started to bale it and 3 days ago his baler broke the knotters. I am sure my hay has no protien left but would still like to see the baler work properly before I start fixing the sheet metal. That was the main reason for buying the 14t. I have never questioned JD balers no doubt the best. One more question I have is were is the adjustment for bale length? Once again thanks for the help!

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Mark A

09-05-2001 05:31:12

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 Re: Re: Re: John Deere 14t baler trouble in reply to Don P, 09-04-2001 19:57:19  
The bale length adjustment is a set screw/stop on the curved bar that crawls up the pulley attached to the star, which is turned by the bale as it is pushed through the chute. Also, as others have said, get a manual as the adjustment between the needles and knotters needs to have the correct "gap" to tie correctly. A manual will save you alot of time.

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