Help mounting a backhoe to a Ford 335 tractor

I just got a 1976 Ford 335 Industrial tractor/loader and would like to mount a small backhoe - a Case D100, which I've learned is typically used on a skid loader. I would like to let the loader frame be the main support for the backhoe and would like suggestions on fabricating and positioning a suitable attachment.....ideally it would not require removal of the lift arms and be easy on and off - will use it periodically not continuously I think. I've attached pictures of the backhoe and also the back of the tractor for reference. Any suggestions, examples, pictures, cautions, references and directions would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not saying it can't be done.I think about the narrow frame with vertical stabilizers.Full bucket of dirt swug to the side high enough to load even a pickup.Your gonna have a problem.Good Kuck.

I would make a top link bracket on the top of the frame and use the two lower pins for the three point hitch and simply mount the whole unit on the 3 pt. hitch. Mount an adjustable top link from the tractors drabar to the underside of the backhoe frame, up behind the top link bracket and tighten it up so that it is under compression--this will keep the whole unit stable relative to the tractor. I do agree, though, you will need a much wider stabilizer than the ones on the backhoe. Ben

I can"t tell from the pics the exact dimensions, but I"d extend the loader arms to the rear of the tractor axle, and mount the bottom of the backhoe frame to them. I"d brace the top of the backhoe frame back down to the tractor axle with brackets bolted to the axle, inside of the loader arms. Much sturdier, less loose, than mounting on the 3ph arms and top link. Using the top link mount, instead of running braces down to the axle, is subject to breakage.

Do a search for a JD Model 7 backhoe and zero in on the mounting brackets. Then build your brackets like that has. You will have to add some arms from your backhoe to your loader arms and the ackhoe will sit on top of your drawbar and hook up to the loader bracket. Don't forget to leave room for a seat between the tractor and backhoe. As someone else mentioned with your downriggers like they are it could get interestig with a buckfull of dirt when swinging to the side. I bought a Model 7 backhoe and made it to fit mine. Don't hook it to your 3 pt hitch lower arms. It will break the casting

I strongly agree with using the loader frame instead of 3 pt, but I would remove the lower arms and uprights and extend back from the loader frame under the axle and come off the lift arms to the upper hitch points on the hoe. The better quick detach hoes use a frame that extends under the tractor to the mid point. I would extend the frame back with channel stock that would pin into the existing frame, then weld and gusset a plate to the ends, then weld two quick disconnect 3 pt. lower link ends to the plate. The tree point arms will be a bear to remove the first time but after that they will come off by just pulling the pins.

That is one thing that I forgot to add. Make the arms attach in front of the axle so you can hook them up. At some point after you get it on you may want to change the supports and mount them on an angle. By the time you add the distance that you will need for a seat you may e able to leave your lift arms on. Make your seat so that if folds up toward the controls when not in use

These are really helpful replies - I'm beginning to get an idea of how to proceed. I had this backhoe mounted previously on a Ford 881 to give it a try - essentially useing the top link and 3 point arms with some other supports. It worked but was obviously too much stress on all connection points, and I think too far back. The loader frame and axle in this tractor offer much better options. I'll be trying to snug the backhoe as close as reasonably possible, and a seat is made for this model that flips over to use when operating a backhoe (don't have one now but am searching for one), so that should also help I think.

I recall finding a thread where someone discusses all the issues of fabricating backhoe subframes, and really talks about all the important issues based on experience....don't remember if it was on this or another site and can't seem to find it now - if anyone can refer me to that source I would appreciate it. thanks again for the ideas and suggestions - please keep them coming...especially any images!
bryan

The first photo is what I believe a factory, (dearborn) backhoe frame, a 4 point connection that essentially clamps down on the receiving end of the backhoe, and appears by itself to be a full frame that mounts to both the rear axle housings and further up onto the tractor. Now I am not sure what else the front mounting point entails, is there hardware, brackets, steel rails, like an 1840, 1841 industrial which I believe has that additional steel because its an industrial model, suited for these attachments. Those sherman power diggers and similar certainly appear to be a lot heavier than yours, but that is speculation.

The last photo is of my 850 ford, with a wagner front end loader, it had a backhoe at one time, and the 4 point mount is part of the wagner frame, and or a continuation of it. The wagner is also connected at the front of the tractor through the front axle bolster support to the actual engine block.

These types of mounts, basically clamp the hoe in the mount and the 2 lower arms are an extension of the wagner loader frame on mine. The top arms are attached further ahead and are orientated to fit over the axle housings and to align with the bottom arms, whereas the backhoe mounting points fit together with these arms and are then clamped down with the use of threaded rod, or like on mine, just the top ends.

Stress points are many on these. On mine, the section of loader frame just ahead of the axle housings, near the foot rest plates is one. Under hard use, shock or impact loads, or exerting heavy break out forces by an abusive operator can and will break the frame if it is not stout enough. Keep in mind, that if the frame is strong enough to resist fatigue and failure, something else, (cast housings) may take that load and fail if not designed for same. On the front of my engine block are repair welds, now that may be from the front end loader, also the cross member under the front mount pump was broke, as was the right hand upright welded connection to the bottom frame member, (below the 2 levers for the loader) Additionally, the part of the rear end, (differential) housing, the ear that projects out with a hole for the top link assembly is fractured on the top side. This tractor is an example of someone who was more than likely abusive. Top link may or may not be related, I don't believe with a 4 point mount its needed. What we need in this post is someone to post photos of one of these assembled, so if anyone has photos of a sherman power digger or similar, maybe they can post the photos, they are not rare, maybe less in numbers now, they were popular in their time period.

Once attached, you have to realize that what you have is marginal as far as the design, there are a lot of heavy forces at work when you think about these. With that in mind, use it accordingly, or be prepared for potential problems. I would also advise that if you need to alter the existing backhoe for mounting purposes, make absolutely sure its done by a competent, experienced, or certified welder that can do the work without compromising the steel. You have to realize that torch cutting, can em-brittle steel, then if welded at the same location, with the forces at work, what has been fabricated could fail, again, give the amount of forces concentrated at the connections. Looking at it, perhaps you just to add mounts to the existing steel, but if there is further or more involved fabrication, it MUST be done correctly.

I won't indulge any discussion about steel fabrication, welding, torch or plasma cutting etc. I'm no expert, but am experienced enough with heavy equipment to know this has to be done correctly, its a structural component that requires lots of strength. I say that to exclude myself from this as it often leads to debate, have at it guys LOL !

I realize this is a 335 industrial model, which was suited for a factory built backhoe and front end loader. The tractor was designed for these attachments, it would be wise to follow what they did, as it was engineered to work, within certain parameters and specifications, its likely your best guideline and if you are not abusive, the end result would likely be fine for trenching, light excavation,(not rock, shale, heavy frost), as well as surface work. What I am saying is don't try and break through rock, frost, pound posts, piles or anything of the like, trust me, the things I have seen abusive or unskilled equipment operators do in the past, it needs to be said LOL!

I think if done right and you take your time, its a worthy endeavor as its just the mount and that's not very complicated at first glance, (well there is always more to these things than meets the eye, but...... LOL !)