Sickle Bar - Haybine - Discbine

Bill VA

Well-known Member
So I got this MF32 sickle bar mower and while it still needs a bit more refurbing, i.e. guards and sickle sections, I got it adjusted and was able to mow pretty well this summer. The experience wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I was kind of impressed with the sickle mower.

Sickle bar - doesn't crimp, also doesn't lay the cut stuff in somewhat of a windrow. My hay seemed to dry OK spread out wide/directly behind the cut on the 7 ft bar. Even though most everything I read indicates a sickle bar is a pain, mine wasn't to bad this summer.

Haybine (with sickle mower). Must have been a nice step-up from the sickle mower, but I've never used one. Reel to pull the hay off the sickle and crimpers to condition the hay. Sounds like a good deal to me. One of these days I might give one a try. But I've read about plugging. Do the sickle bars on these things tend to plug or is the plugging going on in the rollers? I've read a fair amount of stuff about hay getting wrapped around the rollers too. General impression - sickle bars is a headache, save yourself the trouble and get a haybine!

Discbine - Sounds great! However, expensive and a lot of hp required to drive them. Aside from the hp requirement and cost, what is the achilles heal? Do they plug, hay wrap around the rollers, what drives one nuts about a discbine? Are they really that much better than a haybine? General impression, a haybine is a headache, save yourself the trouble and get a discbine!

So the merit I see in a sickle bar is low cost, low hp, wide cut vs windrowing - helpful drying.

Haybine - low hp, lots of used ones, cost is not as much as a discbine, definately better than a sickle bar mower????

Discbine - if you got the hp and $$$$'s, the best there is?????

I'm thinking my budget down the road is going to be a haybine, like a New Holland 472 or maybe a drum mower.

Is a drum mower really that much better than a haybine? Any dissapointments in going with something like a NH 472 haybine?

Window shopping over the winter.....

Thanks!
Bill
 
I got a NH 461 haybine for $165 in semi-field-ready condition a few years ago, it works pretty well and I have put a few hundred into parts for it. I have never had a sicklebar that wasn't worn out, so I don't know how well they work but I would guess they would be nice too. With a discbine you can go faster, but I don't have the power to run one or the money to buy it. A sicklebar can be used to mow under trees, in ditches, in places where nothing else can reach easily.
Zach
 
Disc mowers excel in heavy crops and/or poor cutting conditions (wet/tangled crops), They do not like stones (little ones tend to head for the tractor window and big ones make them go bang... Disc movers struggle in thin crops to cut well, they need the crops to stand up for them to cut and thin crops tend to get blown over by the wind of the discs. Having said that, if you can justify one they are the way to go... Drum mowers can handle the same conditions as disc mowers, they are simpler, but don't have the long lasting ability of a disc mower in my opinion...

Haybine style give the benefit of a conditioner with the downside of a sickle bar, knife cannot handle wet tangled crops unless you have the patience of Jobe...

There are conditions out there when a sickle laying a crop down over the full width of it's cut will dry faster than a windrow left by a haybine... And sickle mowers are cheap and reliable for the most part, and i swear we broke less guards/knife sections with a sickle mower than we do with a haybine...
 
Depends what you're mowing. If it's just grass, crimping won't help much, better off sticking with the sickle mower. The plugging they refer to is at the sickle itself. A sickle haybine won't plug any more than your sickle mower. Discbines are the Cadillac of hay mowing. Can go about as fast as you can stay in the seat, less and easier wear part maintenance, and flat out nice to use. You are right about the hp requirements and price though. Sounds like you're not misinformed, it's just a matter of what you are mowing and how much you want to spend. I've used all three and love discbines, but my budget won't allow it right now so I have a John Deere haybine. I'll have a discbine in the near future though.
 
The bar mower will cut anything that is fit to cut, If it is too wet to cut with a bar then it is too wet you should not be trying to cut hay. The downside of the bar mower is if due to a wind-rain storm and it has flattenrd the crop even if it is dry enough to be cutting if you are going in the direction it is laying then the bar will ride over it. The real on a bine takes care of that problem. ASnd also that real will chase out your dog or other animal standing and hiding in the standing crop thinking they are safe and they if they think they are safe will not move out of the way, the real makes them realize they are not safe and they will move to try to get away from it. Conditioner roller plugging is a lot more from a stand alone conditioner used behind a bar mower as the bar mower will do bunching that when the conditioner get there that bunch is what will usually do the plug, possibly from conditioner rolls hitting ground trying to pick up the hay, now with the habine the hay never hits the ground between knife and rolls so no problem there. And hay always layed out as far as you can get it, 6' swath with a bar mower or 7' swath with a 9' haybine will always dry faster than the hay in a row like the mower-conditioners with the narrow rolls do. Those around here, northwest Ohio if used are used for silage and then they have anouther unit with the wide rolls for baleing hay because of the drying time. And your tractor is not big enough to carry a drum or disk and as they are usually narrower than the bar mower you have to travel so much faster to be able to cut the same acreage you could not stay on the seat. And from previous post your fields are not big enough to if you had the power and weight in your tractor you could not get up enough speed in between turns to cut as much with that 6' drum as you can cut with the 7' bar due to just the slowing for turning. Started out with horse drawn mowers to tractor semi-mount, tractor full mount and tractor trailer to a Case 555 haybine 9' run with a Farmall H 1941 model tractor with 27 MAX PTO HP. Quit making hay in 1981 and retired from farming now. What I see of the work of these disk-drum I would not own one if I was still making hay. And your MF 50 or 150 is not a heavy enough tractor to handle those but it would handle a 9' haybine with ease.
 
There is nothing wrong with a sickle mower which is well maintained, adjusted, sharp etc. I have one mounted on my SMTA that I never take off. It is a quick backup to my mower conditioner should the newer machine have a breakdown. When I complain about sickle mowers it relates to my experiences with the old JD #5 mowers that I started with way back when. I don't care for semi mount mowers and I don't care for pitman mowers.

And with all due respect to Leroy, who has probably forgotten more than I will ever know...the reel on a haybine will NOT save anything living that is in front of the mower. Last summer I had a hen turkey get tangled up with that real and she went thru the rollers and never had a chance. If it is in contact with the reel it is already into the knife and not likely going to survive the experience. Geez what a mess that was.
 
Used a hay bine for about ten years. We picked up more ground and bought a nine foot case discbine for a steal at auction. Had no issues with it. If you can afford one and have the reliable tractor to run it, get one and never look back. That's my experience anyways. No fussy sickle to mess with. I've almost got enough acres to justify a 12 foot hydra swing discbine...that'll be the day
 
It"s just common sense that a sickle swath will dry faster than a moco/discbine swath. But what if it rains? Sickle swath turns to crap, the other two....top surface gets wet and sheds a lot of moisture, protecting the windrow underneath.

Sickles plug easily on turns, but when I had the Haybine I cut in lands, which eliminates a lot of turning, and plugging. I ran the discbine for 11 years and it never plugged. Running into another windrow just made a new windrow. A lot depends on how many acres you need to cover, as to what you can justify.
 
When there was an animal 20 feet in front of the haybine header you could start to see the hay moving where the animal was starting to run away from it be seeing something comming and getting scared and most animals will move if they sence danger, the problem with the bar they don't see something so they don't sence danger and croutch down think if they cannot be seen they are safe. With the bar mower we always got at least a couple of cats per year, after with the haybine did not get any animals. Was out of school 55 year ago last spring. Now 71. Bought my first mower when I was 16, a Deere open gear horse mower.
 
He has said on here before he only has about 25 acres in multiple fields from 3 acres up. So for that small you could never get up enough speed from turns to pay and his tractor is only 39 PTO HP.
 
Never seen a turkey in a field so do not know how they would do but have seen many a cat or rabbit take off a scooting when they see that real comming toward them. That was before deer moved in here so also do not know about them.
 
My haybine has a real. Average about 4.5mph. Also average many bunnies, fawns, and turkeys/year. Don't think it makes much difference either. Mowing hay =dead critters. I've used all 3. Get more with a discbine only because you're going faster. Haybine vs sickle mower. Same.
 
I bought a new New Holland 488 Haybine back in 1999, and i still have it. I have cut thousands of acres of hay with this unit, and it is getting kinda wore, but still works good. The rubber roller units need to be kept inside when not in use , because the sunshine causes the rubber to crack, and it will fly off. Before I bought the 488, I had a 461NH , even it was better than a mower. I had to put up with a mower for the first 5 years I farmed, real pain. Mower conditioners cur far easier than the old sicle bar mower. And they rarely plug. Bruce
 
I have never hit a cat and the rabbits are fewer with the haybine I think. Turkey won't stay in the field unless it is on the nest like the one I hit. I wiped out every egg and what was left of the mama was about as disgusting a thing as I have ever seen. I had to drag it off the field next day. Never a coyote around when you WANT one!.
 
Bill, you can get a haybine and be fine for a while, but a discbine will spoil you. They are easier to maintain, and though initially costly, are much faster in the field don't plug like a haybine can on mouse huts or any other grass wad. Over a period of time, it will more than pay for itself....
 
I started farming again 2 years ago , taking back ground that's been rented and I am on a budget . Picked up a new holland 492 for $1500 . Will probably do 50 acres this year in square bales. We had a 472 when we dairied , cut at least 200 acres a year no troubles. Discbines are nice but hard to justify with small acreage . You will see quicker drying with crimping and I believe you can speed up a bit when mowing.
 
Well my 2 cents is I do not think your new little JD tractor is going to run a discbine due to lack of horsepower and I am certain your MF50 will not.

So unless you plan to buy yet another tractor the question for you is haybine, small disc mower only (without conditioning), or a drum mower.

Each has its advantages and disadvantages, but if you want conditioning well there is only one choice....haybine....

I have even cut in the rain with my Hesston 1120 mower conditioner (sickle based cutter with conditioning). Impressed me since most who try to cut with sickles when wet have troubles. Have done the most cuts using a lowly Farmall h to run it. That said, I like the Farmall m on it best and will be my primary moco tractor. Have use a JD model A as well to run it.
 
(quoted from post at 23:50:11 11/25/14) So I got this MF32 sickle bar mower and while it still needs a bit more refurbing, i.e. guards and sickle sections, I got it adjusted and was able to mow pretty well this summer. The experience wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I was kind of impressed with the sickle mower.

Sickle bar - doesn't crimp, also doesn't lay the cut stuff in somewhat of a windrow. My hay seemed to dry OK spread out wide/directly behind the cut on the 7 ft bar. Even though most everything I read indicates a sickle bar is a pain, mine wasn't to bad this summer.

Haybine (with sickle mower). Must have been a nice step-up from the sickle mower, but I've never used one. Reel to pull the hay off the sickle and crimpers to condition the hay. Sounds like a good deal to me. One of these days I might give one a try. But I've read about plugging. Do the sickle bars on these things tend to plug or is the plugging going on in the rollers? I've read a fair amount of stuff about hay getting wrapped around the rollers too. General impression - sickle bars is a headache, save yourself the trouble and get a haybine!

Discbine - Sounds great! However, expensive and a lot of hp required to drive them. Aside from the hp requirement and cost, what is the achilles heal? Do they plug, hay wrap around the rollers, what drives one nuts about a discbine? Are they really that much better than a haybine? General impression, a haybine is a headache, save yourself the trouble and get a discbine!

So the merit I see in a sickle bar is low cost, low hp, wide cut vs windrowing - helpful drying.

Haybine - low hp, lots of used ones, cost is not as much as a discbine, definately better than a sickle bar mower????

Discbine - if you got the hp and $$$$'s, the best there is?????

I'm thinking my budget down the road is going to be a haybine, like a New Holland 472 or maybe a drum mower.

Is a drum mower really that much better than a haybine? Any dissapointments in going with something like a NH 472 haybine?

Window shopping over the winter.....

Thanks!
Bill

When I got back into farming the first year I mowed hay with a New Holland 451 sickle mower. Later I was able to pick up a New Holland 488 haybine for $600.00. It was rough looking but it ran good and the rollers were good. I'm still using it to this day. I've debated like everyone else on going to a disc mower or something,but I have a lot of hills so the speed I would pick up would be marginal. Plus I would lose a day on curing with the disc mower over the haybine because I do not have a tedder. So I would have to go buy a tedder which then means more trips over the field,which means more fuel. I can say that I have never had hay wrap the rollers on my 488. Growing up we had a 472 and I have seen the hay wrap the rollers on it. Reel adjustment has a lot to do with that. If the reel is too far forward in really tall hay then it will bend the hay over and the roller will grab it before it gets cut by the sickle and it will tend to wrap the rollers. If I was to buy a haybine I would personally get another 488 New Holland. It was the best designed haybine they ever produced. That's why the 488 is still in production to this day. So parts availability shouldn't be a problem. I'm not knocking any other brands of mower conditioners as I'm sure a lot of the others are good also, but I don't know how their parts availability is.
 
I also have a 488NH haybine, It has run over thousands of acres since it was new in 1976. If I could afford a new mower conditioner it would be another 488. I usually replace the sections every other year using the bolts makes it easy. I took the original belt off the reel last year and replaced it with a new 1 from NAPA. I have replaced the 3 or 4 chains.
 
Bill,

I can't remember what part of Virginia you are in, but there is a 9 foot New Holland Haybine (489?) for sale here in the Piedmont area of North Carolina. The asking price was less than $1,000. I bought a New Holland 163 folding tedder from the same person this summer. Both had been sitting for 2-3 years.

I know that the 9 foot haybines are fairly wide to move on the road and do not go through all gates well.

Also, what we use is a 7 foot Vicon disc mower, then go over it with a New Holland 404 Hay Crusher(crimper). I know that it is another trip around the field with another implement, but it works well for us. The 404 leaves the hay standing up and matches the disc mower swath just right. We seldom have problem with it plugging up. We mow fescue and some orchard grass and fertilize it in the spring. Using these crimpers saves at least 1 day of curing time.

You can find these older rubber roller crimpers at auctions for $100-$300. I guess most everyone made them, but our experience is with New Holland. Some people hate them, but it works good for us. Fields from 1 acre to 8 acres. We mow about 50 acres total/season.

My dad has run combines since he was 14 but has never wanted a Haybine,"too much trigger works", he has always said. He did not think we needed a disc mower, until I brought one home and used it.

gfoster at yadtel dot net

Garry
 

If I read things right, 5045D and 25 acres of hay...

Discbine is no go

If you have the budget, get a 4 disc mower.....no conditioner, no plugging and on 25 acres if will last "forever"

I'd go for a haybine otherwise, reel at least keeps sickle clear.

Drum mowers apparently do work, but anyone "here" has since moved away from them or junked them.
 
I would stay with the sickle bar myself for no more than cutting 25 acres. It has to be in good shape to cut. I've cut a lot in the past with a sickle bar but run a disc mower now. Pair the sickle cutter to the right tractor to me is what makes a big difference also.

I always started the year with 2 new blades. Riveting. Got to where I was pretty good at it. Looked like a factory made blade.

But if you are going to go to something different keep cutting bar length in mind also.
 
Good info - thanks!

Yes - I am limited by PTO hp to around 50 max. Sickle bar mower is OK for now and the near future. Don't really see a discbine given my hp. The upgrade route would be a hayine or a drum mower with a tedder after mowing.

What I think about with a haybine or discbine vs a sickle mower or disc/drum mower is the potential to shave off time out in the field. Full time day job keeps me busy, so to the extent I can save a day or a half via a conditioner, the better.

I've read several posts regarding laying the hay wide out across the cut swath for faster drying and that really nothing does it better than a sickle bar mower - on the first cut.

Thanks again,
Bill
 
Yes - right now 2 fields, 5 and 7 acres each. Will likely pick-up more hay next summer, not sure how much yet, but will probably max out on around 20 - possibly 30 if we can get some old pasture cleared.

2 tractors in the mix right now, a MF50 diesel, 38 PTO and a JD 5055d that is 47/50 PTO hp.
 
Thanks!

I have read several places that one of the upsides to the sickle mower is that it lays the grass where it cuts it, vs windrowing it and with that helps drying.

The plan right now is to continue with the sickle mower and add a tedder to the fleet to 1) fluff/turn the hay after it's about half dried out and 2) damage control should it rain.

I like the idea of a haybine so that perhaps I could shave a day or half day from cut to bale.

Different strokes for different folks, two of the things that float my boat when making hay this summer were having the knot between twine bales stay tied when they changed over during baling and the second was to make a perfectly square corner with the sickle mower while in a turn via the turning brakes on my tractor - LOL!

I can't say I encountered much plugging in general and not so much in turns as the sickle bar kicked back when I made a sharp 90 degree turn - don't know why, just the way it was. A couple of places I found, each time I passed, the mower would plug. Not sure what was up with those areas either. As much flack as a sickle bar mower gets, it still amazes me how they can cut so cleanly in tall grass when dialed-in.

I was able to mow when the hay was very wet, but of course everything was much better when totally dry. I've read of folks mowing hay at night and giving it all day the next day to dry to give the hay a full day vs partial day after the cut. Sounds like that is an easy job with a discbine/mower or drum mower.
 
Yea - I hear you on the discbine. Not sure I can get there with my tractor's PTO hp of 50 or less depending on which model I'm using.

Somehow I think the nearest I'll get to the simplicity and troublefree mowing regardless of field conditions would be a drum mower.

On one hand, I like the idea of a conditioner like a haybine or discmower, but the drum mower has a certain appeal too.

One of the things I will do as my boys get older and able to work unsupervised is turn them loose on whatever I'm using to cut the hay. I'm just real nervous about letting them get near the sickle mower. I feel better about a haybine as the cutters are a little more sheltered from hands, but it seems to me a drum mower operation would be no more complicated (or unsafe) than riding a lawn mower. Engage the PTO and go. No plugging, no sharp knifes that can slip and get one's fingers, just little blades that swivel about a pin and appear to be pretty much harmless when the machine if off.
 
You are correct. I'm limited by PTO hp, so it's unlikely I'll be
moving to a discbine and Momma ain't going to allow another
tractor purchase anytime soon - LOL.
 
Well lets look at this another way:

You say you had basically zero problems cutting with your traditional sickle mower now. I am going to guess you mowed at 4.5 or so mph.

So if you go to a traditional disc mower alone you can likely cut 25% faster at say 6.5 or possibly 7 mph. Sure some people may say you can go crazy faster than this with disc mowers but they are using giant tractors with front wheels bigger than your rear wheels and they can handle the harsh fields due to big tire size. You simply are not gonna blaze across a rough field on a little tractor. With the disc mower you will have slightly less mower maintenance. Would also say less cutting headaches but you aint having any headches now so no really help with headaches in switch to a disc mower. [u:f41581bccb]In summary[/u:f41581bccb]: you will not put up any better hay than you are now currently with the sickle mower you already have.

Drum mower: Well you can go 25% faster with it too like the disc mower but you also likely to be taking 25% less cut width with a drum mower with it so speed basically equals out to same speed as your current sickle mower . You will have less mower maintenance. On the downside you now have a windrow glob that now needs teddered after you cut. Mandating another trip over the field so in some ways you regressed. [u:f41581bccb]In summary[/u:f41581bccb]: you will not put up any better hay than you are now with a drum mower compared to your your existing mower and you may even work harder and burn more fuel to do it.

Conditioning is really the only way to put up [u:f41581bccb]better[/u:f41581bccb] hay in [u:f41581bccb]humid type climates[/u:f41581bccb]. You can add a stand alone conditioner which means another trip over the field after you cut with your current sickle mower. Switch to a 9' haybine or moco (sickle based cutter with conditioning built into one unit) as both of your current tractors will easily run one of these and a wore out haybine/moco will almost always out cut a standalone sickle cutter plus you gaining 2 foot of cutting over your current sickle (assuming you own a 7') . Discbine is out of the question unless you buy bigger tractor which is not fiscally feasible on your acreage and momma already said NO.

That all said, I would still add the tedder as any benefit it can give you on unconditioned hay it can also give you those same benefits on conditioned hay - so do not look at the tedder as an either or scenario. Add one if you find a deal.
 
Thanks!

I went with a 5055d, a little more hp than the the 5045d. The
other machine is a terrific MF 50 diesel, which is only some 52
years old and just now getting broke-in - LOL!
 
Thanks!

I can't say I had zero problems with the sickle mower, but I've
read where they can be a headache! Most of the folks I've
personally known hated them, but the way I went at my mower
was to read and learn what, why and how it works and set
about to put it in the best shape before it ever touched a blade
of grass. Knife sections sharp and against the ledger plates.
As you mentioned, my speed was 4.5 to 5.5 mph depending
on the conditions. I've still got some work to do with the sickle
mower as last summer's outing was more of a sea trial than
getting serious with the hay. So the mower seemed to do very
well was a surprise. I thought I'd be unplugging the mower at
every turn, but that really wasn't the case - maybe I got luckily.

Our fields are small and unlike flatter ground and larger
acreage, going much faster than 5 or 6 mph is getting bumpy
and somewhat unsafe for my fields IMHO. The manual
mentions the top speed for the mower is 7 mph, so I think 4.5
to 5.5 is doing pretty good.

Yes - I've seen several drum mowers and I believe disc
mowers that are 6 ft and some drum mowers less than that.
I'm mowing 7 ft with the sickle and wouldn't mind having a 9 ft
mower. Probably the thing that has speeded up everything
has just been for us to get the equipment out, run it and get to
know it and what works / what does not. The last batch of hay
we cut, raked and baled went really smooth and fast.

I think a haybine might speed things up just by conditioning the
hay and having to make less trips over it with a tedder, if at all.
That's the attraction of the haybine to me.
 
(quoted from post at 02:55:34 11/28/14) Thanks!

....I think a haybine might speed things up just by conditioning the
hay and having to make less trips over it with a tedder, if at all.
That's the attraction of the haybine to me.

You got it. Plus if you go 9' you will be mowing faster than you are now but the practical limit of a haybine in tip top shape is going to be 6.5 mph or so IMOP. I have yet to plug my Hesston and I have mowed with it in the rain. Pace was only 3.5 mph in the rain but it did not plug. I usually mow at 4.3 to 4.5 mph due to tractors used gearing and horsepower limitations. There is good reason that once the haybines hit the market that the old stand alone sickles and stand alone crimpers became virtually obsolete.
 

My personal best for baling grass hay was 24 hours from being mowed to being square baled. Cut with straight disc mower around lunch one day, tedded that afternoon, raked and baled the next afternoon. Yes the hay was made perfectly fine, I was as surprised as the next person. Proper weather does more for making hay than any machinery will. In my case the the ground was very dry, had two very hot and windy days.

If you are cutting fine with the sickle bar, and doing a decent speed, then a tedder is a better investment. I don't think a conditioner will speed you up any faster.
 
After several years of having our hay round baled upon by custom hay shakers and spending the feeding season forking big globs of hay off the lanes and being unable to control the amount of hay I feed because the hay is baled too dry and the bales are too loose, I figured I would start haying myself. I fought doing that because of the equipment expense and maintenance requirements but I just have not be able to get consistent bale density with 3 different custom operators. They bale when it is convenient for them and it"s hit or miss in terms of bale quality and baling alone costs $10 a bale. All my knowledgeable friends say they sometimes have to bale in the evening or night so there is a bit more moisture to get the correct moisture content for good bales. Custom guys don"t do that especially for small operations like mine.
I figure for what I"m wasting in hay and the additional time cleaning up I can pay off hay equipment in two years.

Used equipment where I live is so well used that it has virtually no value except for parts. Good used equipment is "imported" from the mid-West. I"ll be using a Galfre 6 foot drum mower, a small Sitrex V rake and a round baler, either NH or JD. Galfre offers drum mowers to ~7 ft cutting width with a conditioning system. Kuhn I believe offers a drum mower with an add on conditioning system but the cutting width is only ~5 ft. The rake and mower will be new and I will find a good used baler. That"s my plan as of today.
 
Look back thru the posts here on DRUM mowers here. on this board... The guys who have them are pretty well sold on them. I got one a season and a half ago. I AM NOT GOING BACK TO A SICKLE, and I have two of them in the barn... I usually rake two swaths into a single windrow. Works great for me. Speeded up my haying operation greatly. Cuts stuff I can't touch with a sickle. Reepair costs way down. New set of blades costs $10, takes 10 minutes to change. Far more impervious to damage from rocks and molehills.
 
I used a NH 461 then a NH 469 for years. You can buy good used ones fairly cheap. You will absolutely need a haybine to crush 1st cut hay, any kind of clover or alfalfa. In your area, you will rarely get 3 full days of sunshine in late May / early June. Plus, if you start putting fertilizer on old fields, the yields will increase enough to also create drying problems. So, if you want better control over your efforts and results, you need to move up to a haybine, and a tedder.
 
Sounds like a plan to me!

Around my neck of the woods, it's hard to get anyone to custom bale for $$'s per bale or shares. There's just not many that farm or bale hay anymore. Pretty much every tractor bought is a CUT with a loader for someone's 2-3ish place or hunting camp. I glad we can immerse my boys in square baling and all that goes with it. I think one of these days they will appreciate the experience and memories of it and like you we are not at the mercy of someone that might or might not show-up and make your hay.

Really looking forward to making top shelf, quality hay as time goes forward.

Good luck,
Bill
 
Yea - pretty much everything I read about the drum mowers sounds great and affordable too.
 
I grew up with a mounted ford sickle mower. It was ok. I purchased a jd 450 and put sch guards and sections on and wow what a nice sickle mower. Well worth the upgrade.
 

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