JD 336 baler - rebar wedged between knives

Hello all,

Baled today "til I ran a piece of approximately 3/8" diameter steel rod through the baler; stopped the baler cold, killed the tractor, and sheared the flywheel shear bolt. Upon inspection, I"ve noted that I cannot remove the plow bolts which hold the stationary knife or the knife on the plungerhead. I could get all but the lowest of the three bolts on the plungerhead knife backed out (i think) but the lowest is obstructed by the stationary knife (the knives are overalapped). I could remove all but the lowest bolts on the stationary knife but the head of the lowest one is covered by the rebar. Any advice from anyone out there who has run into this type of thing?

Thanks in advance...and I thought the rain was bad...
 
Torch the rebar out and torch the bolts off if you have to.
Keep a hose handy for when you set it on fire. You will set it on fire. Just keep calm and put it out.

Rod
 
Put a hydraulic jack in the rear of the bale case and push the plungerhead back forward. Disconnect the PTO so it can turn backwards.
 

I agree with Rod on the torch. If driveline killed tractor then the baler slip clutch is frozen and needs some serious attention. I'll be surprised if some of the baler pto shafts aren't twisted.
 
Sometimes the simplest fix just eludes the mind! I'm thinking, come-a-long, hydraulic jack, screw jack. Of course just cut the dern thing. gobble
 
I'd replace the shear bolt and try rocking the plunger back using the flywheel. A come-a-long may be required if it's real bad. May just be junk if it's that bad too...

Rod
 
Thanks for the tips guys. Four men and three hours later...We've got it out! I was doing the thinking and researching on the web while older brother was rummaging through the shop for a bigger sledge hammer...I guess whatever does the trick...Thanks again - your help is always appreciated.

-Noah
 
Tx Jim - I'll check that slip clutch adjustment
and get it working. I'll have to check the manual
if there is a way to test its functionality or if
it just a matter of torquing the bolts...thanks
for the heads up
 
At this stage of the game I'd probably dis-assemble the slip clutch. By that I mean.. drive the roll pin from the hub/ORC where the shaft attaches and remove the drive shaft. Then undo the bolt right on the clutch (with the springs), then extract the pressure plate and friction discs. Make sure it's all clean and in good order, scour the rust off if necessary, replace anything that requires it and reassemble. I forget the spring length but check your op's manual for that spec and tighten each nut until the spring reaches the desired compressed length. That should do it...

Rod
 

Noah
If rebar wedged in baler killed your tractor I'm 100 % positive that the slip clutch is frozen. As Rod stated I think there's a spring length specified in operators manual.
 
my slip clutch was frozen one year. My 4020 did NOT stall, it bent the drive shaft to the main gear box and broke the slip clutch yoke. Those shafts do bend easy if you have enough HP in your tractor. Check it carefully, and if it is bent, it can be straightened.
 

Bent shafts can be straightened but twisted shafts are scrap material. It wouldn't surprise me if hex telescoping shaft in front of slip clutch on Noah's 336 isn't twisted.
 
Shouldn't the shear bolts come into play before you start doing stuff like bending drive shafts?

My old IH 47 baler lost time after a pinion bearing went out - it sheared bolt on the plunger, the needles, and the fly wheel in less than half a second but other than the bad bearing the baler suffered no damage.
 
on a JD 336, the flywheel is NOT part of the drive train, but pinned to it, meaning it can shear and the wheel stops turning but the baler keeps working. On a 24T, the flywheel shear bolt does connect as a part of the drive train. Shear that and no baling till you replace it. On the 336, you know you sheared the bolt when the kicker pump stops kicking bales.
 
(quoted from post at 21:26:45 09/09/14)On a 24T, the flywheel shear bolt does connect as a part of the drive train. Shear that and no baling till you replace it. On the 336, you know you sheared the bolt when the kicker pump stops kicking bales.

Northvale
I disagree with your statement as 24T & all the other JD small sq baler flywheel/pto drives are designed the same maybe excluding the models 114W/116w which I didn't research.The gears outlined are similar to all the balers

Please overlook my wiggly red outline of gears as my nerve damage affects my control of the mouse

mvphoto10888.jpg
 
The PTO does not have a shear bolt to stop the plunger in case of an obstruction - just a clutch? Sounds like a horrible set up just begging for damage.
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:32 09/10/14) The PTO does not have a shear bolt to stop the plunger in case of an obstruction - just a clutch? Sounds like a horrible set up just begging for damage.

Not horrible if slip clutch is properly adjusted.
 

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