Building Bale Wagon

slifnom · Sep 1, 2014

Hee Guys, I need to build a new bale wagon, mine is quite old and the under runners are cracked. I would like a plan and the type of wood prefered for this construction. I remember a guy by the name of Kelly. But can not reach his website any longer. Any and all ideas would be appreciated.Thank you

old · Sep 1, 2014

Last one I rebuilt I used 4X6 for the runners and then used 2X4 for cross beams and then used 1X?? for the floor. For the longest lasting you want treated lumber so it weathers better

JMS/.MN · Sep 1, 2014

I have 16 and 18 foot thrower wagons, each made with doubled 2x8 stringers, 4x4 cross members spaced maybe 30 inches apart, and 15/16 rough cut boards for decking. Boards are slightly spaced to let water through. Stringers have a couple of 2x8 cross braces to keep them from twisting. They"ve stood up well since the late 70s.

Dave H (MI) · Sep 1, 2014

I have several wagons. Remember they carry a lot of weight. Mine are like JMS described except 4 x 8 on the beams that run lengthwise to the wagon, then 4 x 4 across these, then the deck. I stay away from the 5/4 treated deck boards mentioned because they get VERY slippery. I use rough sawn I get from a mill and I keep them sealed up. Very important to remember that down the length of each side of the deck to put a 2 x 4 on top. This is a brace for your feet and lets you know when your foot hits it that you are on the edge of the deck. Look on Craigslist and you should find small sawyers who put together flat rack packages from various types of wood. Ash is popular right now for obvious reasons. Oak is always good. Treated is good for under the decking.

JMS/.MN · Sep 1, 2014

I used DOUBLED 2x8 stringers, 4x8 not available. 2x4 on the sides is a good idea if you"re stacking on the wagon...also on the front. Topping the stringer with formed sheet steel will also prevent rotting of the stringer between the boards.

1legonutt · Sep 1, 2014

white oak is the perfered spicies in my opinion

Rob

Dave H (MI) · Sep 1, 2014

Yeah, I caught that. I get my tops at the mill and I think he will cut any size I ask...I don't do it very often. Double 2x boards are better if they are treated IMHO, and I don't use the metal since they are treated and last longer than the sheet metal. The chemicals in the treated can corrode the metal too. Either way, I think we know what we are doing!

Prolly shouldn't mention it, but all my used petroleum products from over the summer are mixed with kerosene and stored flat on top of my hay wagons. By Spring they are ready to go.

Donald Lehman · Sep 1, 2014

White Oak is not availible in our area. We use mostly hemlock, hard maple or white ash for the bed pieces here. 4x8 cut to the length of choice. Same wood for the cross pieces. Usually 4x4. If you are using a JD thrower, inch hardwood will work for the back boards. If you have a NH type thrower, 2 inch hardwood planks will save you the job of replacing a lot of broken boards. I prefer hex head bolts with washers to carrige bolts. After a few years of working, the bolts will wear the wood enough that the heads will turn when you try to tighten the miserable things. At least with a hex head you can get on the bolt with a wrench or vise grips to hold them while you tighten up the darn things. Never-Siezing the bolts wouldn't hurt a thing either. I'll agree with the old oil as the best preservative going.

slifnom · Sep 1, 2014

I read all the replies, and thank you very much. I just have a question about running the stringers on the wagon. Could I run the top deck crosswise instead of lengthwise? I guess I am asking if I used lagbolts to the stringers. Would this be alright?

old · Sep 1, 2014

You probably could but it may not take as much weight doing it that way. Maybe ok if you put a 2X4 around the outer edge of it. That way you tie all the cross board together

Hayrack · Sep 1, 2014

If your looking to build with the deck boards going across, here is the way I build them. I use 3 2x8's bolted together with 3/8 carriage bolts for the stringers and I offset the outside one back 18 inches for the back rack to mount to. I cover the stringers with galvanized flashing tin to keep the moisture out from between them. 2x8 vertical between the stringers in front, middle and rear to keep them from tipping. 2x8 deck boards, and a double 2x4 outer rail bolted together, with gusset boards at front, middle, and rear to keep the outer rail supported. I have built dozens of racks like this for myself and others. The oldest one I have out there I built 22 years ago, out of standard pine,(not treated) and it is still in use today. Email is open if you have any questions.

Leroy · Sep 2, 2014

First question that you have not answered is what type of bale and what size bale you are wanting to haul? Hand stacked 30" bale 125 bale decent sized load on a 7' x 16' bed and any of the sugestions are way over kill, For that size load 2 2x8" sills of pine are plenty. Loaded that size beds to 170 bale with no problems then if you are wanting 36" bales and stacked 30 bale per stack on a 20' bed you are going to need a lot heavier, 24' bed even heavier. Then for large round bales construction would even be different. Then for kicker bed things would be different. But Oak was never used years ago as the excevie weight was considered a horse killer. For that heavy material you need to figure a heavier gear. A 125 bale load on lighter weight wood a 3 ton gear is plenty heavy, then the way a lot of them are built for that same 125 bale load you need a 5 ton gear.

Ken Macfarlane · Sep 2, 2014

Yup. All ours are crosswise 2x6 with edges joined. Makes a lower wagon especially when you have a long one and need deep main beams.

We have some 20 footers with 6x8 or 10 main beams and 2x6 deck. Tires clear the deck with 3/4" space. Works perfect.

Part Time Pete · Sep 2, 2014

I use larch for mine - it's tough and not too heavy. The main stringers are double 2x8 with 2x6 cross pieces. It's a good idea to flash the top of the main stringers, because hay likes to collect there and rot them.
I make mine 8'x18' - they'll haold about 125 bales tossed on
Pete

GordoSD · Sep 2, 2014

Yes. Run them crossways on doubled 2x8'stringers.Check you tire to deck.clearance with a short piece mockup.. Don't use 1 inch for the floor. Use 2x8.
Find some round head flanged torx screws (Menards)for the floor. Don't penetrate the boards at all!
Watch the grain on your deck boards. Alternate the boards with some rainbow grain. Stops warped deck.
Get a long handled roller and slather the boiled linseed oil on it.

GordoSD · Sep 4, 2014

Actually you want 2x4 down the sides bot top and bottom of your cross lumber. Sanwich those edge and use lag bolts with fender washers. One bolt every other 2x8.5/15 is big enough with right washer. Again, DO NOT PENETRATE the top surface of any boards. Don't use Phillips deck screws as they make holes for water to sit in.If you insist on using them use the correct holder so that they stop flush with the surface.

Building Bale Wagon

slifnom

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old

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JMS/.MN

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Dave H (MI)

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JMS/.MN

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1legonutt

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Dave H (MI)

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Donald Lehman

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slifnom

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old

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Hayrack

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Leroy

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Ken Macfarlane

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Part Time Pete

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GordoSD

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GordoSD

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