Teach me about chisel plow points.

dmiller

Member
I have a worn out Graham Hoeme plow. Needs new shovels. When I got it it had 12 inch sweeps on it that were very worn. Didn't do a good job of digging in, a few broke the sides off the sweeps. So last year I cut off the sides with a torch and used what I had. This year I can afford new points (but not a better plow).
It is my understanding that there are different angles and lengths of points. The shanks are loose with some of the springs missing so I don't think twisted points will work, the shanks will just move sideways. (picture is from before I cut the sweeps off)
Thanks for your input.
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You sir have one of the best chisel plows ever made. My dad bought one sometime in the 50's and I was still using it when I quit farming in the mid 90's. Always used 2 inch spike points on mine. Works great with them. Matter of fact I still have the old plow.Works great in small grain stubble and bean ground going to corn.
 
Would you spend the money to fix the springs, I found some online at agrisupply that I think will work, looks like it would be about $100 plus shipping to fix the 6 shanks that are missing springs.
If I fixed them would you use twisted sweeps. Most of my opportunities seem to be ripping out fields that are "hay", or at least were 30 years ago when they were last seeded. This is dryland in south central montana. Air Seeder and no tillage at all is probably the best, but I can't afford that kind of equipment. I have to work it, and am trying to get as much trash worked in as possible so I don't plug my drill or have seeds that don't get in the ground. I follow the plow with a disc but have to be careful not to work out all the moisture before seeding.
 
Twisted points are more aggressive and move more dirt. You buy half left, half right facing points. I always mount them so they throw the dirt toward the center. Going the other way will leave an untilled strip in the center.
 
If I was going to use mine and it needed repair there would be no question as what to do. I'm in central Ohio, so there is a big difference in soils.I would guess you are going to need the twisted shovels in sod.
 
it tears it up fairly well, but no uniformity to depth and leaves ridges at random between the shanks. I go over it with a disc, usually twice. Really need a better plow, not sure its worth fixing, but anythin comparable in size is about $1200 or more (in decent condition). This one was $75.
 
dmiller, I am with casenut here on this point the Graham Hoeme (pronounced--Hayme!) was one of the Best Dryland High Plains chisels ever built. I have an old 13 shank Low Clarence, solid shank attachment, (no springs) with hand levers adjustments. Tongue pull!
My question is what are you wanting to do with this implement a Chisel or field conditioner that will chisel too. I run 14 in sweeps on mine and love it, I do pull a 3 section Spike Tooth Harrow hooked to a 3 in pipe directly behind mine. Helps breaks up clods, levels out the soil too. I am surprised the plow took the ground all with those wore out sweeps.
If you run straight points or twisted the ground will always be ruff. The fact that your has some springs mounts tells me the machines is cross-bred try to find another plow for parts and get all the mounts the same, I think you will more happy with it. Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.
 
My intention with the plow is to work up the ground about 5-6 inches deep. When I had the sweeps on it it seemed to just tear under the sod, not really breaking it up. I had to disc twice to get the surface small enough to be a decent seed bed, and get the sod/trash mixed in enough to allow the drill to get under it and into soil. My pattern was to chisel, disc, disc. Both disc passes had a spiked tooth harrow behind them. I was only trying to disc up the top 3-4 inches.
 
If the shanks are spaced properly and it has 2 inch points , it will do a good job of ripping sod.
 
There are 11 shanks and the frame is 10ft. wide (though the center of the outermost shanks go about 4 inches inside the frame). so the centers of the shanks are 10 inches apart.
2 inch straight points was what I had in mind, unless the twisted ones were more highly recomended. What angle are they so I get the correct ones? I believe this is a low clearance model, at its lowest setting when in the ground the frame is about 10 inches off the ground.
 

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