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NH68 Knife Adjustment

B

Bill VA

Well-known Member
Reading over the manual, it appears if I'm going to get the knife closer to the stationary plate, the plunger has to move and the knife moves with it.

For some reason, I was thinking one shimmed the knife.

How easy/hard is this adjustment?

Thanks!
Bill
 

I have a NH 68 and used it for the first time this year, so I am new to the baler. I had good results making bales.

I always ask questions on this forum get lots of help maybe it is time for me to help also.
What is your baler not doing for you?
 
I'm setting the baler up for it's first run. If the knife clearance is
1/32 inch I believe per the manual, mine is 1/8 inch or more.
I'd like to adjust the knife to spec before baling.

Thanks!
Bill
 
Sort of hard to explain but you bend it to meet specs. Also you need to make sure the knife is nice ans sharp
 

Angle iron supports the plunger top and bottom when plunger is moved so is the knives. I saw nothing in the manual about shims.
Hope my pictures help.
10297.jpg
10298.jpg
 
If you look on the top and bottom outside of the bale chamber, you'll see 6 or 8 square head adjusters with jam nuts. There are also plow bolt looking fasteners recessed in the angle steel tracks the wooden plunger slides ride in. You need to loosen the track bolts, jam nuts and adjust knife clearance with the square head adjuster bolts by pushing the angle steel tracks to the right of the machine a bit..

As a friend used to say,"Says easy, does a little harder." One of the problems you may run into is that when you push the plunger to the right, you may run out of adjustment before you get the knife in spec, or the slides may bind up in the tracks. That's when you need to re-shim behind the knife blade.

Of course depending on your rust situation, loosening those adjusters can be a treat too. Had to heat mine up pretty good.
 
While your at it and have things loosened up, be sure to check the clearance of the plunger to the top of the chamber. There's a spec for that too, and if it's too wide you'll have trouble with the knotter tying properly.
 
Why don't you just shim the stationary knife? That's what I've always done. Hard getting your arm in there, I know, and some masking tape over the heads of the plow bolts to hold them into the knife while your are re-assembling helps.
 
There were shims behind my knife the first time I took it off. I forget what they looked like. The ting to do is to use the adjusters to get the knife as close as you can and then if you need shims, make some up to take up the space.
 
That's a great tip. Oftimes the knives won't be exactly parallel, closer at the top or vice versa. I've always shimmed the plunger knife, but shimming the stationary would be soooo much easier.
 
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