Anyone put ripper shanks on their grader blade?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hello all, i have been looking at box blades with ripper shanks to work on my driveway and garden. I dont need the box i just needed the rippers really to loosen the gravel and soil. I saw online they make grader blades you can flip around and they have ripper shanks on them but they are all over seas and i dont think shipping fees would be doable. My question is, anyone ever weld some square tube on the back of their blade and put shanks in them in order to do this? Seems like it would be a good idea just wondering if anyone has any experience? The shanks are pricy. Some iv seen at the local stores are up to 40 bucks a piece and i think i need 5 of them so i didnt want to waste a bunch of money if it wouldnt work. Thakns!
 
cb,
I do not think adding rippers to a grader blade is a good idea, there is a lot of stress on the rippers and if you ever hang one and you will if you use it much.
you might bend your grader blade,

plus you might like the fact that you can grade the drive way with the box blade and rocks do not fall out the ends of the blade as they do on a grader blade.

I also have a rock rake, for smoothing the rocks or even raking up debris out of the garden and leaves out of the barnyard.

I subscribe to the old moto: "a man can not have enough tools"

note: I rarely use the grader blade, if it or the box blade had a rear wheel kit attachment, that would be nice to maintain a constant depth, that would be nice. tractor has a level position, but if the front wheels go up, the implement goes down.
a165328.jpg

a165329.jpg

a165330.jpg
 
If you just need scarifiers these work well for me and you can even hook your 3pt blade or stone rake behind it. This ones a landpride. Check it out on their website. I also take the scarifiers off and use it for pulling timber.

Kirk
100_2188_zps6a807b2e.jpg
 
I've been pulling logs with this or the box blade for over 15 years with no problems. How do you pull timber?

Kirk
 
(quoted from post at 03:07:32 08/10/14) I've been pulling logs with this or the box blade for over 15 years with no problems. How do you pull timber?

Kirk

From the drawbar. NEVER from a 3 point.
 
Agreed. From a drawbar that is connected properly to the center or forward on the tractor so that, should that log catch on another tree or unseen rock and stop you dead the rear tires will not slip you over in their relentless need to turn while the governor ramps up the engine to compensate for the load. The drawbar actually can pull the nose down in such a case. Be safe!

(Look underneath a tractor with a drawbar and you will see the difference. Most drawbars are connected well forward on the tractor.)
 
That scarifier would work awsome for me, but i am having a hard time spending $800 plus for one when a 6ft box blade is only $600. i was just hoping to find a quick easy solution to weeding and breaking up hard back driveway stone on my driveway and digging out tomatoe plants and corn from my garden at the end of the season.
 
If never from the 3pt than why are most tractor
logging winches connected to the 3pt. I pull logs
the same way they do only without the winch.
Dragging logs without lifting the front up you
will surely dig in and risk flipping the tractor.
It ain't no pulling sled on flat ground. Felled
152 trees on my property last year some moved by
skidder and most by tractor using the same method.
But I am all ears if you have a better way. Never
to old to learn new tricks.

Kirk
 
Winches do their serious work with the tractor stationary and the winch on the ground. When actually skidding logs with a winch and moving tractor, the height of the winch works rto prevent rear rollovers. Hopefully whatever technique you use is safe in terms of rear rollover hazards. I'm not convinced you appreciate the potential for injury or death.
 
Sorry didn't see this sooner. Never been an issue. I have a really good size log tong, the kind when you pull on it, it closes the points and grabs the log. I hook a chain on it and drag the log down the lane. If you are using your 3 pt arms to hold that log up you are risking an upset should you hang on something. In cases where you are not dragging down a clear lane but over rocks and stumps you might need a different setup than I use...although I have never had issues.
 
I tried a big set of logging tongs both from the drawbar and from the 3pt and it doesn't work well for me. It dug in and caused to many ruts.After the log was fell I even cut with the chainsaw so it was more like a bullet head and have try attaching old car hoods and it doesn't work except maybe on snow. The method I use has a lower impact on the woods and trails. I mostly use the box blade. Back up to the log, lower the 3pt, throw a chocker chain on the log, raise it up about 6" so that the front of the log is off the ground and rests against the blade, drag it back to the landing, unhook and use the box blade to push the logs up in a pile and when the piles to big for the box blade I move them with my forklift. This method has worked for me for many years and I probably won't change unless I find a better easier way. If your way works for you than that's good too.
I should add that whenever you drag timber safety and common sense should be practiced. I'm sure you can find on youtube a 25 yr old kid with a half dozen logs hook to the 3pt at full height with the front of the tractor 3' off the ground and thinks this is fun. This is not the way I pull logs, I value my live too much.

Kirk
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top