24t bridge pad

nisse

Member
I sheared the bolt holding one on the bridge pad assemblies on my 24t and as much as I walked the field I can't find it. Does anyone know where I could possibly find a used one or possibly a whole parts machine? I am in south central Minnesota. I already bought some bright orange paint so this doesn't happen again!
Thanks,
John
 

Here's what it & pads cost plus bolts at JD
E18887 Support - SUPPORT, ADD 180.91 USD
2ea-E15459 Pad - PAD, ADD 53.62 USD 107.24 USD
*Subtotal 288.15 USD
 
Hello Tx Jim,
I did stop and inquire at deere and those
prices are what they told me, except they said
there is 2 versions and the later one is about
a hundred bucks cheaper. Still have to check
my serial number, I might end up buying new
just thought I would try to save a little.
Thanks,
John
 
I have a slightly used one with a new bolt in SW Mn. Half price of a new one plus shipping. Ph.507-825-2079. Best time to call is 8-10pm.
 
What part is called a bridge pad? I have trouble with operator's manual having more than one name for the same part in the same book. My IHC baler book uses the term "cord holder" and "twine disc" and I assume it is the same part with two different names.

Some manuals call a dipstick a bayonet. I called for a bayonet and the pars clerk made fun of me for being a dummy.

Another time a called for a 10-32 nut and the clerk said that would have to be a 5/16. He has never heard of machine screw sizes
 
(quoted from post at 19:51:23 08/01/14) What part is called a bridge pad?

Another time a called for a 10-32 nut and the clerk said that would have to be a 5/16.

The bridge is parts key 15 and yes there are 10-32 nuts.
mvphoto9744.jpg
 
I had the same question about exactly which part but thats cleared up. How big of a problem is shearing the bolt and dropping the piece??? Seems like things would really need to bind up to push that out. In my limited experience I would think the baler would have been giving indications of the adjustment being off, loading up the tractor if to tight or plunger banging around if loose. Bale quality would suffer as the knifes lost proper relationship. My 24t is really doing well since being brought back from the dead, next investment in it is updates to worn tucker fingers. How best to avoid problems with the parts focused on here???
 
(quoted from post at 08:13:21 08/02/14) If entire arm is dropped you would have broken the bolt marked parts key 18,....correct??

Correct. The 24T had a slight history of loosing the bridge. I remember selling some bridges & pads when I worked in a JD dealers parts dept way back in the 60's-80's
 
I didn't realize it was missing until I saw the broken bolt, it sounded the same and bales were still good. Actually finished baling about 80 more bales after realizing it with no problems. There is a front and back pad, so having just one seemed to work but not what I want to do long term.
John
 
Is a jam nut on 18 part of the solution?? Both of
mine are bound with a jam nut on the bolt beyond
the bridge and the "clip" that is behind the
bridge......relative to the head of the bolt. Im not seeing a nut in the parts blow up right off but it is referenced in the manual on adjustment.
TxJim, thanks again for your advise. You have
helped me to understand the manual and what I had
my hands on.
 
Josh I have a 24t parts baler for sale all parts are there. I also live in so central mn . send me a email Bob miller Henderson mn
 
Hey there: Tx Jim
Not to steal the conversation but can you tell me of any parts that are available for a JD 214T I have one that I am trying to keep alive.
Andrew
 

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