knife head bushing 469 haybine

joe201 · Jul 28, 2014

I've been wearing out knife head bushing about every 350 bales and have posted and you guys replies is having me check the guard alignment and ledger plates. After I change the bushing I have to pry the knife head forward about 1/2 inch to get the bolt back in the bushing All I have is a operators manual and it isn't very clear on how to check and align can anyone explain how to align the guards and check ledger plates? Also how free should my knife head and sickle move in the machine, should I be able to move it back and forth fairly easy? there is a part in the manual about checking the sickle drive crankshaft and pivot bearings any help or procedures and or pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Joe C

bison · Jul 29, 2014

(quoted from post at 21:14:15 07/28/14) I've been wearing out knife head bushing about every 350 bales and have posted and you guys replies is having me check the guard alignment and ledger plates. After I change the bushing I have to pry the knife head forward about 1/2 inch to get the bolt back in the bushing All I have is a operators manual and it isn't very clear on how to check and align can anyone explain how to align the guards and check ledger plates? Also how free should my knife head and sickle move in the machine, should I be able to move it back and forth fairly easy? there is a part in the manual about checking the sickle drive crankshaft and pivot bearings any help or procedures and or pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Joe C

use a length of plastic baler twine across the cutter bar just in front of the fingers and line all guards up to that string, then i look from the side trough the gap were the knife rides and make the ledgers line up by bending individual guards that are either high or low.
I made a tool that passes over the guards and lets me bend the bar instead which is better than trying to bend the guards( all you accomplish is stretching the bolts anyway

casecollectorsc · Jul 29, 2014

Also check the timing of the sickle. At the end of each stroke the point of the sickle sections should be in the center of the guard.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 29, 2014

Yes, you should be able to slide the cutter bar in and out of the machine without a great deal of effort. If it's binding, it'll go through bushings like no tomorrow. Those things are getting spendy, too, at $35 each. Have a helper slide the cutter bar while you try and see where it's binding. Using a string to line up the point of the guards works well too, as does sliding a piece of pipe over the guard to bend it into place.

What kind of shape is the machine in overall? There is a solid skid plate that runs under the the cutter bar the width of the machine. It also helps to stiffen and protect the ledger plate the guards are bolted to. If that guard is rusted out, the guards will get bent out of line and bind up very easily. It's expensive from NH, but I had one bent into shape by a local steel shop and welded it into place. Ever since replacing it, I've been able to keep bushings in use for 4-5 thousand bales or more. Worth taking a look.

knife head bushing 469 haybine

joe201

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bison

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casecollectorsc

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Anonymous-0

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