469 haybine

joe201 · Jul 27, 2014

I can only bale about 350 bales of hay and the bushing in cutter head has to be replaced. I have had this haybine for about 4 years and until this season I"d cut between 1000 to 1500 bales before having to change bushing, anybody have any thoughts or advice? or anything to check
Thanks Joe

DeltaRed · Jul 27, 2014

Sickle binding and takeing excessive'force' to move.Or is something loose and hammering on the bushing?

bison · Jul 27, 2014

(quoted from post at 20:03:41 07/27/14) I can only bale about 350 bales of hay and the bushing in cutter head has to be replaced. I have had this haybine for about 4 years and until this season I"d cut between 1000 to 1500 bales before having to change bushing, anybody have any thoughts or advice? or anything to check
Thanks Joe

he knife has to be centered mid stroke before torquing the bolt down
Knife has to lay flat on the guards with the bushing at a 90 degree angle to the wobble arm so the bolt will drop in.
Any deviation from that will shorten the life of the bushing or break some other part.
If knife and guards and wobble arm are properly lined up that bushing should last many years of cutting many acres.
My haybine has double knives and i've used it to cut at least 7000 acres with the original knife bushings, i replaced the first last year,..the other one is still good.

big orange · Jul 28, 2014

How fast your pto turning? That model could not be over sped.

joe201 · Jul 28, 2014

When I change the bushing its real hard to pull the knife head and sickle out, also when I put the bolt back in I have to pry the knife head about 1/2 inch forward to get the bolt in, I have a operator manual but it doesn't say how to line up the wobble box and knife head. Can you give me some pointers.
Thanks

bison · Jul 29, 2014

(quoted from post at 19:35:34 07/28/14) When I change the bushing its real hard to pull the knife head and sickle out, also when I put the bolt back in I have to pry the knife head about 1/2 inch forward to get the bolt in, I have a operator manual but it doesn't say how to line up the wobble box and knife head. Can you give me some pointers.
Thanks

nife has to go in and out with little to no effort,..easy hand push.
Seems like you got to straiten the cutter bar so all the guards line up perfectly, same with the knife and sections, only straight as an arrow will do.(you may even have to bend the entire cutter bar down to get it to properly line up with the wobble box arm if that happens to be out of room for adjustment,..the bolt has to drop straight trough knife bushing and wobble arm Bushing without having to cock the knife(the latter bushing is replaceable or can be ground on the bottom to a 90 % angle with the hole if it is worn.(you can shim it with a washer to take up the play

Knife head bushing should pass without binding or play under the the wobble arm bolt hole, any prying forwards or back wards is a sign that something is bend or miss-adjusted.

469 haybine

joe201

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DeltaRed

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bison

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big orange

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joe201

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bison

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