270 Hayliner

Hi:

I have just acquired a 270 Hayliner and I have some questions on its performance.

I have the unit running and putting out bales but I noticed that the string on the chamber side is longer than the wheel side. The bale hold together but is bowed (I think because of the slightly longer string), can this be adjusted?

Also I need to replace the wheel on the chamber side as the one on there is weather cracked and will fail. Can the axle be adjusted out to accommodate a wider wheel. Any ideas as to the approximate weight of these balers?

Thanks
PaMnd

First thing is to order a manual ASAP!Yes,you can adjust the cross feed fingers to make 'square' bale.However,those aluminum fingers are often worn 2-3" short.Replace them.Other things can also contribute to 'banana bales': restrictors gone/worn,hay dogs missing/nonfuntional......You also need to keep baler FULL,light wispy hay;too slow a feed will cause bananas.Tighten the tension,make hard 60-70 lb bales.You dont want 30- 40 lb marshmallows.No,the axle cannot be moved out.A 225x15(used auto/light truck) tire is perfect.You can simply flip the rim to provide clearance.

Couple more things...The string is really not "longer",It only seems that way because there is more hay on one side because of improper feeding.And,while baleing,wind it up to rated speed.Slow running speeds also result in bannanas,and is also harder on the machine.I had a neighbor(old man,retired'city guy')) who would always run the baler(NH315) just above an idle."i dont want to wear it out"...Always had trouble,sheared bolts,bad bale uniformity/density......I FINALLY convinced him to run it at speed.All his problems dissapeared!

I think I will just repeat Deltared but sometimes its good to hear it several times...

Get a manual. Lot of your questions are answered in there. Pretty cheap for what they are from NH, or on the Internet typical sales places.

The left axle is a pretty simple bolt on stub shaft, but not adjustable. Getting a rim with more dish is the way to go, if you need. I have a 225-15 used pickup tire on mine, that's pretty wide and works fine? They also made a deep dished dual that could bolt on with the original rim if you needed a lot of carry capacity in swamp ground. See these on auctions every now and then.

The string isn't 'longer' but you are feeding the chamber wrong. The hay isn't feeding over to the left side of the chamber. This is a combination of the 3 forks being not worn down, being set in the right places, the knife edges being sharp and adjusted right, plus feeding the windrow fast enough or big enough into the baler. With the many variables it is hard to give a simple answer as to what is wrong on yours, but it is in this list somewhere.

This year in tough damp conditions I notice a little bit of banana bale with my 270, but very little. It has not been an issue for the past 45 years or longer, you need to play with the above stuff to get it right.

Paul

Hi DeltaRed, Hi Paul:

Thanks for the responses.

Yes I have the owners manual (actually have owners manual for 68, 69, and 273 balers as well) that is how I have been able to get as far as I am. All manuals give the same general guide lines which seem to imply if you know what you are doing then this will fix the problem. Well as a first time baler I really do not know, and I lack the experience (which is coming by trial and error) to really understand the effect of my changes. At least now (with both of your comments) I know that it is a feed problem. That is why I follow these forums, I appreciate the advice from the experienced users.

DeltaRed:
The cross feed fingers (I assume you mean the two aluminum tines in the pickup chamber) look good to me and seem to draw the hay into the compression chamber fine. The hay dogs and also look good to me (that is not broken, look like a matched pair, are not flat, etc) and the bales do seem to line up straight after the plunger retracts.

DeltaRed, Paul:
Keeping the baler full, now that is a problem. The field I am working has a goldielocks (my term) complex. Some sections full and thick (and I have to slow my travel down to not overload the baler), some really thin (and I have to speed up just to get some hay), and some just right. None of the different conditons seem to affect the bale shape as I produce a consistant banana bale (nice term) although I should mention it is a very gradual banana shape. Guess I will just have to play some more to try to figure it out. Oh, yes, I timed the pto speed and determined the rpm for 70 strokes per minute (as recommended in the manual) for the baler.

I have a chance to pickup a spare parts baler some distance from me. I wanted to use my utility flat deck trailer to bring it back. The trailer is not a heavy duty trailer (max load of about 2000 pounds) and that is why I wanted to know the approximate weight of the baler.

Again thanks for the input.
PaMnd

re the deep dish dual paul talks about- very commonly used years ago in wetter ground. I just sold one for $50, seen them for 30-50. They have 12 bolt holes- six are used to mount to the hub, which has 12 tapped holes, and six larger holes to fit over the six bolts holding the inside wheel on.

There are 2 cross feed fingers that are aluminum, they can be moved. I read that they might look good, but wear the peaks down and are too short. I don't have experience with this, but something to check I guess.

There is also a metal feed finger, a bent rod, spring loaded, on the far right side. Is it there, is the spring good, etc.

For a total of 3 feed fingers on that chain driven bar.

I really can't say too much about exactly correcting the problem, I was a little kid unaware back when dad got the 270, and it has just worked well over the decades, really haven't needed to adjust much.

I know about uneven windrows, that is the norm here too.

Paul

Hi:

I would like to thank you for all of your suggestions. Just a couple more observations. When the row run out of hay I noticed that the feed chamber is swept clean of hay. This would indicate to me that the feed tines must be reaching enough of the hay to keep the feed chamber clean. When the baler ties the knots the knots are always about 1 inch apart. That is the chamber side knot is tied first and then the wheel side knot is tied. Is that normal?

I am going to adjust the left (wheel side) feed tine closer to the wheel. If I understand correctly that should put less hay on the wheel side. I think I will adjust in one inch increments until there are no more adjustments and then I will move the chamber side feed tine closer the to pickup chamber.

Still no guesses on weight?

Thanks
PaMnd

Because you asked about the weight, I was assuming you didnt have a manual in my first reply.... The weight should be listed in the spec section near the front.

So dug out my manual, turns out its for a model 271, and lists the weight with the Wisconsin engine, not the pto model weight.

Huh! Guess that isn't very helpful.

Paul

Hi Paul:

Spec section in the front of the manual? I read the manual and I did not remember seeing that, so I went back and looked again. Now I know why I missed it. That page is missing.

What does your manual say. Even with the Wisconsin motor the weight will at least give me and idea.

Thanks
PaMnd

Right around 2600#, with engine, 271.

Paul

Hi:

Just an update. Based on the weight listed for the 68 baler and Paul's listed weight for a motorized 271 I decided to take my utility trailer to go pickup the parts machine. Got the unit load and, although a little heavy for the trailer, made it back with not problems.

This week I plan to adjust the feed tine and see if I can make straight bales.

Thanks for all the comments.
PaMnd