Hesston 5800 round baler belt tension question

Shealray

Member
So how much should the belts deflects with the door shut without hay?


I was told the belts should be moving without hay in it and door is closed.
I was also told my belts where to loose.
I have heard with this baler you have to have hay in it a good amount before the belts will move.

So those who have used a Hesston 5800 round baler with good results how tight do I set the belts?

Thanks for the assistance
 
The 5800 appears to be similar tot he 5500 I run. My natural inclination is to ask, "What does your operators manual say?" I'm assuming you haven't gotten an op manual- you should-ASAP. For the 5500 they recommend 1.5" deflection with "good pressure" at the mid point of the foremost belt. Kinda vague. Yes, the belts have to be moving to start a bale. No, you shouldn't need to have hay in it to make the belts move. Yes, sounds like your belts are loose. The owners manual, available from any Heston dealer, Ebay, etc., will outline the length, clip type, recommended practice on baling, etc.

Like I said, get an op man ASAP. :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 10:10:15 07/25/14) The 5800 appears to be similar tot he 5500 I run. My natural inclination is to ask, "What does your operators manual say?" I'm assuming you haven't gotten an op manual- you should-ASAP. For the 5500 they recommend 1.5" deflection with "good pressure" at the mid point of the foremost belt. Kinda vague. Yes, the belts have to be moving to start a bale. No, you shouldn't need to have hay in it to make the belts move. Yes, sounds like your belts are loose. The owners manual, available from any Heston dealer, Ebay, etc., will outline the length, clip type, recommended practice on baling, etc.

Like I said, get an op man ASAP. :lol:

Thanks. I have some belts that have stretched more then others. I will say each belt should have the same defection using the back of the baler as the referance point.
Thanks for the information.
 
(quoted from post at 10:10:15 07/25/14) The 5800 appears to be similar tot he 5500 I run. My natural inclination is to ask, "What does your operators manual say?" I'm assuming you haven't gotten an op manual- you should-ASAP. For the 5500 they recommend 1.5" deflection with "good pressure" at the mid point of the foremost belt. Kinda vague. Yes, the belts have to be moving to start a bale. No, you shouldn't need to have hay in it to make the belts move. Yes, sounds like your belts are loose. The owners manual, available from any Heston dealer, Ebay, etc., will outline the length, clip type, recommended practice on baling, etc.

Like I said, get an op man ASAP. :lol:

http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/eng3050/$FILE/16.pdf

I found this report on the Hesston 5800 baler and it speaks of having to have a hay core
to start the belts turning. Guess this baler has a bale forming issue the report commented on.

I hope other 5800 hesston owner will see this report.


EASE OF OPERATION
Forming a Bale: An inexperienced operator found some
difficulty in starting a bale with the Hesston 5800 but once the
operator gained experience, it was relatively easy to form a neat,
durable bale. When starting a bale, it was necessary to weave the
baler, back and forth across the windrow, so hay was fed evenly
across the width of the baling chamber. The bale forming belts on
the Hesston 5800 did not start to turn until the bale core was large
enough to press against the belts and tighten them on the drive
rollers. If the bale core did not have a uniform diameter when the
forming belts began to turn, the belts on the smaller end of the bale
core sometimes slipped past the end of the core and prevented
proper bale formation. If this happened, the baler had to be stopped
and the bale core ejected without twine. Once the bale core was
properly formed, a slight weaving action was needed during bale
formation to maintain a uniform bale diameter.
Figure 6 shows the position of the bale
 


My 5800's belts don't start to turn until I have a core started, then it starts turning. You have to zig zag across the windrow to keep the bale level. Once you get the hang of it, it works good. Just don't let one end get built up too high, or the belt on the other side could slip off the end of the bale. If you zig zag too much you'll build up the middle of the bale, which is no good. Makes real nice 6 x 6 bales.
 
(quoted from post at 20:35:13 07/25/14)
(quoted from post at 10:10:15 07/25/14) The 5800 appears to be similar tot he 5500 I run. My natural inclination is to ask, "What does your operators manual say?" I'm assuming you haven't gotten an op manual- you should-ASAP. For the 5500 they recommend 1.5" deflection with "good pressure" at the mid point of the foremost belt. Kinda vague. Yes, the belts have to be moving to start a bale. No, you shouldn't need to have hay in it to make the belts move. Yes, sounds like your belts are loose. The owners manual, available from any Heston dealer, Ebay, etc., will outline the length, clip type, recommended practice on baling, etc.

Like I said, get an op man ASAP. :lol:

http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/eng3050/$FILE/16.pdf

I found this report on the Hesston 5800 baler and it speaks of having to have a hay core
to start the belts turning. Guess this baler has a bale forming issue the report commented on.

I hope other 5800 hesston owner will see this report.


EASE OF OPERATION
Forming a Bale: An inexperienced operator found some
difficulty in starting a bale with the Hesston 5800 but once the
operator gained experience, it was relatively easy to form a neat,
durable bale. When starting a bale, it was necessary to weave the
baler, back and forth across the windrow, so hay was fed evenly
across the width of the baling chamber. The bale forming belts on
the Hesston 5800 did not start to turn until the bale core was large
enough to press against the belts and tighten them on the drive
rollers. If the bale core did not have a uniform diameter when the
forming belts began to turn, the belts on the smaller end of the bale
core sometimes slipped past the end of the core and prevented
proper bale formation. If this happened, the baler had to be stopped
and the bale core ejected without twine. Once the bale core was
properly formed, a slight weaving action was needed during bale
formation to maintain a uniform bale diameter.
Figure 6 shows the position of the bale

Once again I will recommend in the strongest possible terms that you get an operators manual. Hesston makes GOOD stuff. Their op manuals have a lot of info on bale forming, adjustments and trouble shooting. I don't know if your belts should be turning with nothing in the chamber, but I never remember seeing any Hesston baler that didn't have the belts turning when empty. But, I haven't seen every Hesston baler.

I do know the older Hesstons often required you to weave a bit at the start. The general rule I've been told by every experienced round bale farmer is , "Take care of the ends and the middle will take of it self." IOW- feed the sides of the baler and the center will fill as you go. If the bale is so lopsided the belts are slipping off the end there is a problem- and it's not with the baler!
 
(quoted from post at 19:03:40 07/25/14)

My 5800's belts don't start to turn until I have a core started, then it starts turning. You have to zig zag across the windrow to keep the bale level. Once you get the hang of it, it works good. Just don't let one end get built up too high, or the belt on the other side could slip off the end of the bale. If you zig zag too much you'll build up the middle of the bale, which is no good. Makes real nice 6 x 6 bales.

THANKS
 
(quoted from post at 19:03:40 07/25/14)

My 5800's belts don't start to turn until I have a core started, then it starts turning. You have to zig zag across the windrow to keep the bale level. Once you get the hang of it, it works good. Just don't let one end get built up too high, or the belt on the other side could slip off the end of the bale. If you zig zag too much you'll build up the middle of the bale, which is no good. Makes real nice 6 x 6 bales.

I have a few questions
3 belts have become loose more then 1 1/2” deflection and my springs are as tight as they can get on the side.
I want to make the belts shorter. When I do this where do the side springs need to be set? All the way loose or half way? I know I will need the ability to tighten the belts with the springs. My grass fields are really tall and I notice a little build up of grass on the roller above the intake rollers, always on the right side. I have to clean it out after every bale or it makes a clogs. It is almost like the roller with fins is pulling the loose grass in that direction. Do you have any idea why? I do small fields around the neighborhood about 3 acres, so I have to be careful. What gear and speed are you running.
Thank you for you time in helping me it is appreciated.
 

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