Any idea what brand disc I got?

Bud in FLA · Jun 26, 2014

I saw an ad for an estate sale so I had to check it out. I invested $100 in a disc. Anyone recognize the brand or know anything about this general model? Thanks!

Looks like 1 disc is broken (Inside, of course!) and 1 shaft has a little bend in it. The ajustment lever on the right (facing it) doesn't move - yet.
One of the two side bars that connect to the pivot at the bottom of the levers is bent but a little heat and a BFH should fix that. I think straightening that should free up the stuck lever, too.

Look worth $100 to you guys?

Bud in FLA · Jun 26, 2014

I just noticed both the hitch pens are pointed the same way, too.

T Whalen · Jun 26, 2014

Cant help you with the make but by the way it is built I would say it was worth every penny- Nice save.

BobHnwOh · Jun 26, 2014

whoever used it before,maybe their 3 point arms wouldn't spread wide enough to hook both on the outside!

Dick2 · Jun 26, 2014

Maybe whoever assembled it put it together wrong?

keh · Jun 26, 2014

I have a very vague recollection of seeing a Dearborn with the adjusting levers like that.

KEH

DeltaRed · Jun 26, 2014

Massey Ferguson.I have one just like it.

Jim Phelps · Jun 26, 2014

Looks like a Massey, my grandfather had one for his 150 looked very similar.

Leroy · Jun 28, 2014

Post on the case part says that was needed on some Eqal(?) hitch Case tractors as the lift arms did not swing. Generaly in inside was for cat 1 hitch and putting them outside was for cat 2 hitch that is wider. 6" I think.

Tony C. · Jun 28, 2014

Looks like an MF disk. Like others said hitch pins should point inward for Category 1; I would correct that before you use it. Tabs on front near hitch are where a weight pan would have been attached.

Does it have white metal or wooden bearings? What is the spacing between the discs? If the metal bearings are all worn out or any are cracked they can be hard to find and expensive.

Bud in FLA · Jun 30, 2014

I was planning to change that pin before I use it. I retired my AC D17 and I have a Yanmar 1610d now so I have other stuff with the pins pointing in. Just odd to have 1 in and 1 out!
I have the nuts & bolts "soaking" in PB Blaster so hopefully I can keep from cutting *all* the bolts. I'll check the bearing in a week or so after the PB Blaster has had time to work.
I haven't cast a bearing since I worked on old turbines but I think I remember how....if I can find equipment.
I didn't realize they used wooden bearing in this stuff - another reason to keep soaking it with PB Blaster rather than torching it! I worked on some *old* (1918!) vintage hydro turbines with "lignum vita" wood bearings once...that stuff lasts longer than steel would underwater!
Thanks for the info!

Tony C. · Jul 1, 2014

The wooden bearing spools were used up until the late 40's-early 1950's, then they went to cast iron on these small discs. A little later roller ball bearings started to be used on better disks. Ford at one time offered a choice of ball bearing or cast white metal on the 3-point discs.

I assume you will try to dismantle the portion where the broken blade and/or the bent axle bolt are located. If the rest looks straight and fairly tight I would just grease up and leave alone. If only replacing one disc with new it's best to position the most worn at the outside back for some feathering. Outside front tend to wear the fastest.

Some early MF/Ferguson discs had 7/8" axles and 6.5" spacing, later ones were 7 or 7.5". If your spacing is 6.5 it's probably an MF. The model tag on MF was usually riveted to the part of the hitch that angles down from the top-link area to main frame. Maybe you will still see the remains of the rivets there if the tag has rusted/fallen off. Good luck, let us know how it works out.

Any idea what brand disc I got?

Bud in FLA

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