NH 570 knotter and plunger bearings(pic and vid)

Casey in Ky · May 25, 2014

Hopefully these both post. If not I'll post the direct link to both. The video is of the knotter. You can see where after the knotter cycles, both knots are tied, but the string for some reason ends up back over both twine fingers. Now this video was took while just hand feeding hay and I tripped the knotter. The outer one would have definitely got caught on the finger and broke if more hay was being fed into the bale chamber, especially if it was a lot. Both sides do, sometimes often, sometimes not.

Now the pic is of the bearing, or lack there of, on the plunger. The one on the side is completely gone and the one on the bottom is damaged, probably from the one that disintegrated. Hoe hard is it to pull the plunger and what all needs to replaced while into this job. This thing is about to drive me nuts.

Casey in Ky · May 25, 2014

Here's a direct link to the video.
Knotter cycle

Tx Jim · May 26, 2014

As to pulling PH remove any hay restricters inside bale case,block hay dogs out of bale case,disconnect PH pitman arm, and pull PH out the rear of BC

RickB · May 26, 2014

Your twine fingers are way, way out of adjustment. Back to the manual for details on that. You might have lost the return spring and had both fingers go over center on the links before the spring was replaced, but I don't know how it would even tie that way.

Tom in TN · May 26, 2014

Casey,

I agree with Rick about the location of your twine fingers. As best I can tell from the video, the twine fingers are installed 180 degrees out from how they should be oriented. I don't have any idea how that knotter is working at all.

Somehow, you need to reorient the twine fingers so that the "pointy" ends of the fingers are toward the BACK of the baler.

And then, they need to be adjusted properly per the Operator's Manual.

Tom in TN

Husker44A · May 26, 2014

Casey, listen to these guys and they'll set you straight. TXJIM
has helped me A LOT on my JD 224t. The PH needs to be
pulled out the back of BC. Get your wallet out because those
rollers cost me $65 each at JD. Replace them ALL. Clean your
bale chamber out and remove and clean the roller adjustment
slide on the knife side where the rollers roll on. Get a manual
too cuz your going to need it. Then, remove both knives and
set the stationary knife to 10-20 thousands from the outside
edge of roller adjusting slide. Reinstall the PH and now set the
two two knives half way together and using feeler gauges set
the side to side clearance at the missing roller edge. Mine is
set to about 10 thousandths side clearance. Knife clearance is
set to about 50-60 thousandths. Sounds like a pain the rear
but once you understand how to make the adjustments it's
simple. Takes time to do it too. Then, you can fix the knotters.
Good luck. Watch where your fingers are at when they are
close to those razor sharp knives. Block the PH so it can't
move and slice your fingers off !!!

wilder11354 · May 26, 2014

twine fingers? or tucker finger plates?... they should be set so when holding light pressure on tucker fingers towards needle slot(removing slop in linkage) they clear needle by about 1/8 inch when needles in up(in knotter frame) position.
think your knife arm that pulls twine back off billhook, or billhook it self is worn, too much clearance twine slips between them it stays on back of billhook. if so bend knife arm some or shim down billhook to knife arm. Or hole billhook spins in has too much side play in it.

wilder11354 · May 26, 2014

my bad twine gets stuck on knife arm he says... the arms are rust free on the edgges inner and outer of circle, and not ruff surfaces.... if not fine file and sand them smooth. Plus check for too much knife arm movement in its pin hole, pin can be pushed up and down a lot... if so shim it to minimizes the movement. up preferrbly to keep it tight/close to billhook.

wilder11354 · May 26, 2014

also how are the knife arm cam plate balls looking flat spotted anywheres, not rotating?

RickB · May 26, 2014

He said twine fingers. I'm not sure he knows what he's calling anything. Tucker fingers and twine fingers are the same part; knife arms are knife arms.

Casey in Ky · May 27, 2014

Not being a smart a$$ or unappreciative, but I know the difference between twine fingers and the swiper arm that pulls the knot off the the bill hook. In neither of my post did I mention the bill hook or swiper arms. Both sides tie correctly , almost perfectly. The problem is after the twine is tied and completely free of knotter, the tied twine sometimes get caught overtop of the twine fingers and then break as the bale is being shoved out of the bale chamber. The twine fingers are pointed correctly and both clear the the top of needle as it comes past the top of bale chamber by less than 1/8th of inch. I'm thinking my trouble is in that both twine fingers have a lot of slop and play, and that don't always end up back where they're suppose to be. The only measurement I can find in the manual is the twine finger clearance from the top of needle as it comes up, and I actually found it in the NH knotter manual , not in 570 owners manual, but maybe I missed it. Again, I'm very thankful for all the help I've received here over the years.

onefarmer · May 27, 2014

Here is a New Holland vid on how knotters work. Maybe you can see something in there to help you out
Knotter video

onefarmer · May 27, 2014

The video starts showing the twine fingers at 8:45.

NH 570 knotter and plunger bearings(pic and vid)

Casey in Ky

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