Question about mystery loader

Loader:
ATVhauler.jpg


2n1.jpg


1. I don't know what brand it is. It's been on this old 2N Ford since my dad bought the farm it was parked on 11 years ago. Maybe somebody can identify it.

2. I has a question.


This loader's hydraulic oil reservoir is on the left side right under the control levers. It has a push/pull cylinder for bucket tilt but the main lift cylinders have power up, gravity down.

The cap for the reservoir was missing. It was sitting in an old wooden barn without a cap & the whole tractor was covered with dust & lead paint chips from the ceiling in that lean-to.

We passed a tow chain under the bucket & towed it 1/4 mile down the road to a shop that was going to weld up a crack in the engine block & get it running. The previous owner said it had sat in that barn for 8 years.

While it was parked at that shop ...outdoors, the wind blew the aluminum foil off the hydraulic oil tank & then it rained. They got it started but the loader hydraulics weren't working.

There's no drain for the loader's hydraulics so I just pulled the suction hose off the pump. The stuff that came out was white & foamy. There's no filter on that hydraulic system.

I got "universal tractor hydraulic oil" in a 5 gallon bucket & filled it up, and the hydraulics started working. I drained it after a while & it was white & foamy again.

I've lost track of how many times I've drained & replaced that hydraulic oil & it still comes out white & foamy even though I've kept water out of the system.

In cold weather, sometimes the loader won't work at all unless I pressurize the hydraulic oil tank.

Since the cap was missing for the oil filler tube, I un-screwed the filler tube from the top of the tank & made my own with some pipe fittings.

2n3.jpg


While I was at it, I drilled & tapped threads into the cap so I could plumb up a little air fitting. I have been hesitant to put much air pressure in there, usually I just use a 2 foot piece of hose & blow into it with my mouth & that usually does the trick, .. the air forces the oil down into the pump & it starts working.

Today that short piece of hose cracked & broke so I used the air hose off the compressor, just intending to put a little bit in & disconnect it. But being 6 degrees, my fingers weren't working right & I ended up putting a full 120 psi in there. I was holding the bucket lift lever at the time & it immediately started raising up about as fast as it does in the summer. I disconnected the air hose & it went back to being slow again, but at least it kept working so I could plow the driveway.

I'm wondering if anybody knows a better solution than pressurizing the side of the hydraulic system meant to be gravity-fed, and how to clean that whole system so it's always got good clean hydraulic oil in there.

*BTW, .. the ATV in the bucket, .. long story but it saved me from a long walk in deep snow last winter.
 
How much work would it be to remove the reservoir?

I would be seriously tempted to pull it and but in
a drain of some sort.

jt
 
If you keep getting foamed oil you might be sucking air from the suction side of your pump.
 
(quoted from post at 00:59:57 02/04/14) How much work would it be to remove the reservoir?

I would be seriously tempted to pull it and but in
a drain of some sort.

jt
he reservoir would require pulling off the high pressure hoses since the control valves are on top, the suction hose & just a few bolts.

A better location for a drain though, would be somewhere along the suction line down by the pump, which is the lowest point.

(quoted from post at 01:05:35 02/04/14) If you keep getting foamed oil you might be sucking air from the suction side of your pump.
aybe I'll pressurize it with air tomorrow with the engine shut off so I can look for leaks.
 
cleaning...you will have to romove the hoses from
the the bucket cylinder,push and pull the cylinder
by hand to remove the oil from both sides of the
ram . the loader should be all the way down ,
drain the tank removing as much of the oil as you
can and by any means neccesary from the system .
then fill with diesel fuel, cycle the oil through
the system by using it repeat maybe once with
clean diesel again or as many times as neccesary
to clean and then fill with oil.

this is the only way you will remove the milky
oil completly .
 
I agree with an air leak on the suction side causing the foaming and that may be why you have to add air pressure to prime the pump.
 
That tank looks thick enough to drill out. I would weld a large nut on the bottom of the tank and then drill out the tank through the center of the nut. Clean it out with diesel. Then cut a bolt off short so it won't bottom out on the tank. Put a rubber O ring on the bolt or cut a gasket out of a cereal box. Tighten the bolt in your new bung and you are good to go. I'd imagine there is so much mystery junk in there that you will have phantom problems until you get it cleaned out. Can't be doing that pump any good either.
 
(quoted from post at 09:47:03 02/04/14) Brian, Tho not 100% I'm quite sure that it is a
Skyline loader. Chuck
think you're right. I just typed that into Google Images.
(quoted from post at 12:10:19 02/04/14) That tank looks thick enough to drill out. I would weld a large nut on the bottom of the tank and then drill out the tank through the center of the nut. Clean it out with diesel. Then cut a bolt off short so it won't bottom out on the tank. Put a rubber O ring on the bolt or cut a gasket out of a cereal box. Tighten the bolt in your new bung and you are good to go. I'd imagine there is so much mystery junk in there that you will have phantom problems until you get it cleaned out. Can't be doing that pump any good either.
he tank is not made of steel. It's either aluminum or pot metal. My magnetic block heater won't stick to it. I believe the top plate is removable though, so I can probably just open it up & install a large diameter bolt with nut on the inside, that I've drilled & tapped a hole in. Maybe an upside-down castle nut with one or two of the castellations cut out, allowing the oil to enter the bolt via a hole drilled through the bolt, passing the center hole. It would have to be a large bolt though, at least an inch so it'll still have enough beef to hold up when I tighten the nut.
I think it's a better idea to rig up some kind of a drain on the suction line down low though so I'll get more out during a drain. The rubber suction hose coming off the tank makes a 90 then connects to a steel tube that runs just inside the C-channel, then it's rubber again from the front of that tube into the pump.It goes slightly upwards to the pump. Maybe I oughta just re-route it so the suction line is continuously downhill all the way to the pump.
 
(quoted from post at 19:57:38 02/04/14) If the top of the tank is bolted on, there may be a filter in there.
Maybe.

I took some pix today. Crappy pics in the barn with my antique flip-phone.

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In temps above about 20, it works pretty good. I took this picture last winter. I needed to move the Ranger to plow the snow where it was parked but I was too lazy to go in & get the keys so I just picked it up by the trailer hitch.

0122120844aB-1.jpg
 

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