Hay Wagon Sizes

I am getting ready to build a new deck for my New Holland 4 ton running gear. What was on it before was 14 x 7.5, and I am leaning toward going with the same size. I think it will be handier than 16x8 for diches and tighter spots which I bale. The stringers are set narrower in the front than the back, for steering clearance I presume. Any thoughts or advice before I buy wood ? 4x6 or 6x6 mains ? Where is a good place for ordering tire tubes also ? Thanks !
 
I built on a couple years back - Made it as wide as I could, based on my lumber - 90 inches wide, Don't regret the width, makes loading far easier. Length came out to just over 16 feet, as beams were reused from previous deck. If I had my druthere, I'd go for about 18 feet.
 
We built six 8 by 16 wagons last year, built two 8 by 20's this year. You can always put a small load in a big wagon but not the other way around. We built them all out of ash by the way.
 
We just recently built a new wagon bed using 4 x 6 sills and 4 x 4 cross beams then topped off with 5/4 x 6 boards onto an old John Deere running gear. The wagon can be used for bales and the grandchildren can decorate it for parades. As we get older we do not like handling heavy bales. We make our 14 x 18 bales 32 inches long weighing about 40-45 pounds each. The way we stack 32 + 32 + 18 wide = 82 inches. Our wagon bed is 7 x 14. We usually put about 100 bales on it. This keeps it easier to unload and very maneuverable in the barn. We put up about 700 bales this year.
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Yours looks exactly like what I have in mind... The big wagons are not needed for my farm size and I feel will be handier as you stated. Did you use angle irons and bolts to hold the cross beams to the main sills ?
 
First wagon i built this year, its outta ash, all rough cut from amish farmer in NY. Its 8X16, 4x8 main beams, 4x4 cross beams, 1.25 deck, 2x4 uprights. All lumber was cut to a full 17.5 feet except uprights, they were 8.5 ft long. Think it turneed out ok, still need to cut sides for doors and install cahins.steel side braces are installed, and a 38H gate on front. Holds about 130 bales.
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The sills and crossbeams are bolted through with 3/8 carriage bolts. Countersunk the heads slightly. Used 1/4 carriage bolts on decking and tail stop. I had picked up a set of 12 inch bits at an auction about 10 years ago. If using pressure treated lumber be sure to get the special plated bolts that won't rot away from the chemicals. It was cheaper to buy a box of 100 - 1/4 x 6 carriage bolts. We then used bolt cutters to trim the longer ones and a 4 inch grinder to smooth the ends. The 5/4 boards are bolted at the ends and two other crossbeams. 3 1/2 inch grip type plated nails used elsewhere.
 
Mike I rebuilt mine last year, the only lumber the mill had for the floor was planed on both sides. It is too slick especially with the hay dust on it. Whatever you use on the floor, make sure it is rough.
 
I think I will copy what you did pretty closely. I wonder though if the decking needs to be bolted as well as nailed, what I am thinking is it may be more prone to cracking or splitting when the deck twists on rough uneven ground ? One thing I learned from my buddy, he used deck screws on his, and they snap off all the time from stress of twisting.
 
Been 35 years since baling. We had 6-6 1/2- and 7' wide wagons 16' long and one 7' x 18' and that one got left till last because it was just too big and took to much walking to get to the back end, that extra distance you needed a second person on the wagon. The 16 footers were also our grain wagons and had T & G lumber for the floors and they were slick so grain would slide out but never had a problem with them being too slik for the bales. If I was still farming I would want not over 7' wide, that is plenty for a normal load of bales and easier to store and 14' long as easier to load without wearing you out just by walking to the back end of the bed. I would rather have more shorter beds than the longer ones to hold the same amount and they are easier to store. A standard barn was 36 to 40 feet in depth for the driveway and you could back in 2 of the shorter beds with loads to get out of the rain till unloading time but with that 18" bed you could only get in that one wagon unless you also had a 10-12 bed to put in same drive way.. The hay chaf was all saved off the wagons and run through a hammer mill for hog feed so wanted a tight bed to save those leaves that would be wasted by falling through cracks in a spaced out board bed. Too old and poor health to think about farming any more.
 
I built one three years ago like that 8' X14' with 4"X6" sills and 4"x4" cross members with 2"x6" deck and used deck screws to fasten it down. Haven't had one screw come loose or break.
 
Nails might have been a little over the top, but I was repairing an old chicken house at the same time and had the nails and thought maybe I should nail the boards to the crossbeams where I hadn't bolted them. Time will tell. I did build a wagon bed about 10 years ago out of rough cut oak and screwed the boards down. The oak has both cracked and screws snapped off from twisting. I had to go back and bolt the boards down. Forgot to mention, on the wagon pictured I split a 5/4 x 6 right down the middle and lined the sides and back so bales couldn't slide off as easily.
 
One inexpensive solution to the slippery surface, go to your local recycle center and pickup a few gallons of latex paint.

Then use a broom or brush to spread it on the deck of the rack. Then spread sand on top of the paint and mix it in with the brush.

Let it dry and your ready to go. Lasts about 3 years in Minnesota. Sand was about 16 bucks, paint was free, check the color first. Don't want a puke green hay rack!!

Warren
 

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