Drill recommendations for 9n

I"m looking for a good old drill to pull with my 9n. I"d want to plant mainly small grains, soybeans, buckwheat - grass box would be great too. This would be going into a system with tillage.

I"d want something relatively inexpensive, versatile, reliable. It would be great if parts were still available.

Any thoughts/suggestions?
 
I recommend a john deere drill

from my experience they support their older equipment better than most other brands.

find your drill, then check with your dealer, if it breaks and you cannot find a replacement part, no matter how shinny, its not much more than scrap metal.

I found this little drill, two row with 2-25B planter units and a good fertilizer hopper.

works great with my little fergy TO-35
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Around here I think they call that a planter.
He wants a drill for small grains.
Oldmanbishop,
Have you checked out craigslist?
I see them from time to time that are pretty cheap. I had one for a few years and it pulled easy with a 2N
Heres an example
 
Kind of on-topic: we were never allowed to have anything John Deere on the farm. We couldn't even have anything PAINTED green. However, John Deere drills and planters were all we had. That has to say something about them. They always planted well and were durable. They did get put in the shed every night so the neighbors wouldn't see them, though.

Not sure what the smaller Deere drills are numbered like. I've even gotten parts for a steel wheeled one. I'd go Deere (says the man with Farmall tractors).
 
The stuff on craigslist near me is mostly expensive no-till stuff. There is an old wooden Ontario drill (I also see these a lot at auctions). Any idea if they are any good?
 
IHC was more popular around here, but JD was popular too.

Either of those can likely be repaired these days still.

I'd think a 10 foot model would match up well to an N.

Paul
 
They are pretty simple machines really. Lots of moving parts though.
Nothing wrong with a wooden wheel one if it isn't worn out, rusted stuck or the wood rotted. Mine was a steel wheeled JD Van Brunt.
If you go to look at one bring a hi lift jack and raise one wheel up. Then open the top of the hopper and watch to see if all the little gears are turning on the shaft as you turn the wheel.
Then do the same thing on the other side as most of them are actually two machines built side by side.
The one I had was slightly stuck when I got it but I got it freed up by spraying PB Blaster everywhere inside for a few days and gently rocking the wheel. Worked good after that.
JMS MN from this board taught me a lot about drills.
There is a trip lever (or two trip levers) on the front that you pull with a rope to engage the ground drive that makes them work.
Neat machines.
 
I have a '60's era drill. Just the drill, no fert bins or overhand on the back. Has about 10 feet that are 7" apart. You just about could pull it with your atv. The hopper is galv which was one of the best things green did as it is extremely well preserved. Paid a few hundred for it.

Mark
 
We had an old wooden drill that was horse drawn for years until we bought a Farmall C in 1950 and used that. It was always sheltered, we had big machine sheds for sheltering all the machinery. Hal
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sorry I did not understand what type drill you were looking for: old timers problem

I saw this small seed drill on our local craigslist, (southern, IL) it appears to be a trip lift, might give you a price range. $650

if you cannot find a small grain drill, can you use a 3pt spreader to sow the seed and then pike tooth harrow them in.
or roll them in with a cultipacker.
I know these procedures are old school, but they worked for years.

I have sown many small seed like that over the years and they normally come up well.
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I had a couple 10 foot mid 50s Moline drills on low rubber (15 inch tires) that I used for years, and sold for about $250 each after getting a 13 foot JD 8300. Like Ultradog says, drills are typically split so each half is driven by that sides" drive wheel. I used to flush them with diesel fuel after seeding, to keep them free til the next year. Grew up with a 10 foot Moline, pulled by a WC.
 
That is a corn/soybean planter. Plants in wider rows....30-40 inches. A grain drill is used to seed small grains.......oats, wheat, barley, etc., in narrower rows, 6-7 inch, etc.
 
I have a john deere 16 foot hoe drill and an ih 14 foot I pulled the ih with my 420 Crawler all the time in 4th gear on a 4 speed it was a wore out 25 HP but it was a Crawler so that was a pretty good advantage to.
 
The old Ontario drills were great and many still around. I have a horse drawn one which has wooden wheels. They had a bit larger one on steel, a 12ft one on rubber which I also have and they were all the same design for gears, etc. They came as either hoe drills or disk drills - the disk ones work better if there is a lot of corn stalks or sod. They later changed the design a bit and I'm not familiar with those.Parts aren't available any more but not much to break and lots around that can be used for parts. The 12ft rubber tire drill has 36 in tires that are expensive to buy. Many will have a bad fertilizer box but occasionally you can find a good box.A grass seed box was available and can be found on many.
 
Where are you located? I have a very nice IH #10 mechanical lift,7x13 with fert. and seeder boxes, for sale. I am in central ny, 13333.
Loren, the Acg.
 
I have an Ontario. Good drill but you need to do what I didn't do- check the seeding rate. Just because the instructions say such and such a gear combo will put out 2 bushel per acre doesn't mean it actually will. Mine seeds real light.

Parts seem to be fairly available in my area at older farm dealers.
 
I use an MDS "Porta Seeder". It is a 50 bushel spreader with a Gandy box attachment for alfalfa or any second seed. (cover crop.
I pull three sections of spike toothed harrow behind it.
Very easy to pull. I would sell that for $700
 
Mine looks just like that and it is a trip lift....well mine's not painted. And I made a mistake on the number of shanks. It's 14.

At any rate it doesn't take anything to pull a drill.

Mark
 

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