JD 336 BALER PLUNGER STOP

JLU

New User
Just purchased a Deere 336 baler. Front top drive chain sprocket was sharp, so I replaced sprocket. Bought the owners manual at local JD dealer for the baler and carefully followed step by step in timing the machine, including needles. My problem is the baler crank stop (or plunger stop) is stopping the plunger after needles make a bale tie. This happens turning flywheel by hand after tripping the needles also. The plunger stop will not retract back to neutral (out of the way) until the needles return to home (like it should). My problem is that when the plunger is starting a compression stroke, the stop is still out. I can pull the stop out of the way to let the plunger crank go by and before the plunger fully extends to the end of the stroke, the stop finally retracts. The needles are returning home fully and tripping the plunger stop as they should, they just aren't home until plunger is 3/4s of the way through a compression stroke. I know this sounds like a timing issue but I have went through every step and all measurements 3 times from the owners manual and am really scratching my head on this. Help!
 
It is a timing issue.

Before you install the "timing gear" you have to turn the large gear against its stop (internal)at the roller. Then install the timing gear at the correct location so the teeth mesh. Don't turn anything to get the teeth to mesh other than the timing gear (double gear).
 
I thought it was probably timing but OM only goes into so much detail. I'll give it a try when I get home tonight. Thanks for the replies fellas. -JLU from Tama County, Iowa.
 
I"m still confused. Pivot pin in bottom hole on feeder fingers with plunger face centered in front feeder slot on a compression stroke. Front finger is 11 inches from front of slot. From needle home position I tripped bale measuring arm and brought top of needles up flush with top edge of bale case bottom groove flange. Face of plunger to tip of needles measures 2 inches.

Do I still need to remove the cluster gear (timing gear) even though the clutch ring stop is against the roller at this point of the cycle? I realize an adjustment needs to be made, but am really confused with all the "book" dimensions checking out.
I even thought Deere may have sold me the wrong sprocket for the drive but it matched the old sprocket.
 
Check leaver part no. e56303. It is at the end of plungerhead saftey stop rod. Looks like a boomarang.
 
(quoted from post at 22:01:18 05/01/13) From needle home position I tripped bale measuring arm and brought top of needles up flush with top edge of bale case bottom groove flange. Face of plunger to tip of needles measures 2 inches.

Do I still need to remove the cluster gear (timing gear) even though the clutch ring stop is against the roller at this point of the cycle?

OK so you're tripping bale length measuring mechanism then rotating flywheel moving PH on compression stroke when needle points rise to be even with the bale case upward protruding channels the needle points are 2"'s from PH face CORRECT????? Is needle brake snug enough to give resistance while trying to move needle frame by hand?? It this is correct then baler is in time with no need to remove gear.
 
Yep needles are 2 inches from plunger face. I can't seem to raise the needles at all by hand. Brake too tight? Could this baler be 180 degrees out of time? I said in first post the plunger stop wouldn't retract until 3/4 of the way through a compression stroke, but looking closer last night the plunger is actually just starting to retract back in bale chamber when the plunger stop releases.
 
Boomerang lever seems to be doing its job, that is tripping plunger stop when needles return to home.
 
The boomerang may be bent. They do after time. Compare to book or new one. Would not recommend trying to bend back to operate. If bent, it does not pull out stop quick enough or far enough. Stop only misses plungerhead arm by inches as it retracts.
 
Take your boomrang to dealer & compare to new one. If it is just bent 1/4 inch baler will not operator properly. On that old of a baler I'm sure it is bent.
 
I'll order the boomerang lever today. Thanks for all the input! Iowa,I swear this is the only place where you can mow your yard on Wednesday and shovel snow out of your driveway on Thursday.
 
~IF~ the needles and yolk are parked fully in the home position and the lever that the yolk contacts is pushed fully back where it should be... then I would say that the adjustment rod is out of adjustment or the stop is mabey bent. Personally I'd just readjust the linkage so that the stop will clear when the needle yolk is fully home.
ON the other hand.... if the yolk is NOT home, find out why because the stop is at that point doing it's job 100%.

Rod
 
Let me ask you guys this. After tripping bale measuring arm and rotating flywheel so the needles move upward and flush with bottom flange just into the bottom of bale chamber,(when plunger is nearing the end of its compression stroke), does the plunger normally make a full cycle (back to the end of compression stroke) before needles are fully back to home? Boomerang lever is on the way but I'm trying to figure out what makes a baler tick, as this is my first gig with a baler.
 

IIRC when needles are 1/2 way through their cycle(needle points above bill hooks) the PH starts traveling back toward frt of baler IE needles should be home position long before PH completes it's travel toward frt of baler
 
Thanks for the response Jim. Sounds like the needles need to be cycling alot quicker than they are for me. Back to drawing board.
 
Mystery solved. The book doesn't tell you the baler has to be on a compression stroke when the needles become flush in bottom of bale channel. TxJim, you did mention this on one of your posts. I waited for the needles to make their move upward and when flush at bottom, measured distance to plunger face. Being new to the baler world and ironically on a decompression stroke, the needle to baler face measured 2 inches-exactly what the proper distance should be as described in book. This through me completely off. Thanks for your support Jim and Roger and the others who tried to help me out. This is a great site!
 
cluster gear is final step of timing baler. knotter trip cam gear needs to be set, so when manually tripped, release fulcrum drops clear of roller ear, roller drops down to catch inner knotter cam gear lobe. Needle clearance to PH is 1/2 to 2 3/4", larger distance preffered. as long you needle distance is on higher range you can move main drive(plunger) to align cluster gear. knotter cam gear always rotates, inner roller clutch assembly stays stationary until bale length is reached and spring on trip fulcrum pulls it away from inner clutch roller ear when bale length adjuster plate notch drops down into sheave it rides on.
 

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