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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Re: JD24T tight plunger shearing bolt

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04-30-2013 08:23:32

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Any green baler you buy will need that kind of repair at some point. It's a days labor more or less along with some thought... Not really hard work and not necessarly expensive work depending on what you want to change out and how worn it is. Given it's bound up it's probably not worn too bad.


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05-05-2013 20:01:18

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 Re: JD24T tight plunger shearing bolt in reply to RodInNS, 04-30-2013 08:23:32  

Ohhh you mean doing something like this? strip out all guide plates, bead blast, grind down, beat with ballpeen rust built up between metal layers, pick out, new guides, adjuster plate, primed and painted, all new hardware. Then after plunger bearings and excessively worn plates are replaced it can be adjusted for guide clearances, and knife clearances? Also don't forget the pitman arm bushings and pin and shimming it to specs for for side play.

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04-30-2013 08:54:35

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 Re: JD24T tight plunger shearing bolt in reply to RodInNS, 04-30-2013 08:23:32  
Its the outside rail that raised up. After I get that rail out and grind down the bubbled up case metal do I need to do any reinforcing. Or just put the rail back down. There is an outside brace about where this is bad. I am wondering if that has not held water and bulged out to the inside when it froze over the winter.

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04-30-2013 18:20:29

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 Re: JD24T tight plunger shearing bolt in reply to david1, 04-30-2013 08:54:35  
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2X what Rod days. It is real heavy scale. You will need to do very little grinding because the rust comes off easily in big chunks. I use a welders scaling hammer for that. It has a point on one side that will easily break the rust off. Mine was not rusted through. It is amazing how thick rust can get from the oxidizing of a small amount of steel

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04-30-2013 09:05:33

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 Re: JD24T tight plunger shearing bolt in reply to david1, 04-30-2013 08:54:35  
If the rail looks decent you can reuse it. I found on my 327 that I had to take a sharp heavy bar and beat on the rust boils to break them off. Once they're clean you can see what you're dealing with... I think there was a joint in the metal there on mine and I had to grind that down some to get the rail laying flat but it's not a big deal. Even if there was a small hole there I wouldn't worry too much about it. Get the rail flat. The hole can be filled with brass or something like JBweld.


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