I feel your pain Bandit. I'm going through the same thing with a Bush Hog drill we just got (yeah I know it's an "orphan annie"). Most of these "newer" manuals leave a lot to be desired, just look at a manual from something back in the 50's or so and you will see how much better written they were.
I have been useing a neighbor's great plains drill the last couple years so have a bit of understanding of no-til drill function. Your seeding depth will be the same wether using your corn planter for beans or the drill, usually I go 1.5 to 2 inches deep. I would plan on adding weight to the drill to get it to go in and stay in, the gp drill needed 1000 lb. added and could have used more when it got dry (harder). I tried the bush hog the other day, in last years bean field by the shop, and added 600-650 lbs. and the wheels still came off the ground!! Need to get more weights. The only thing I would say different from conventional planting (tilled ground) is to up your seeding rate a bit - 10% or so. I never had a problem with cutting through old corn stalks with the GP drill and don't expect to with the Bush Hog drill either (30" rows 32,000-36,000 pop.) but we rotary cut stalks usually right after harvest so they have winter to break down some. I use an IH 85hp to pull the GP and BH drills (both 10ft.) and though it's not overworked sometimes it would be nice to have a little more power on the slopes. I would try your oliver with an empty drill dry run test before switching tractors.