24T Baler problem

BillinAZ

Member
Every so often my needles come up part way and the plunger stop shears the flywheel pin. Happens 4 or 5 times every 100 bales or so. Seems to happen randomly, not during a tie, or right before, or right after,just any time. I"ve tried cleaning, loosening, tightening the knotter brake. Brake pads look ok, but have been on for many years. Drive chains are snug. What should I try? I can"t get through to the fellow who has the youtube videos and bestbalerparts web site. Is he still in business? Thanks for any advice.
 
Take a look at your chamber dog. On some JD balers, especially with some wear (which a 24T has) the operating rod for the head stop has stretched some and allows the dog to remain in the chamber even after the needles are clear just enough to shear the pin by stopping the head on it's stroke. Make sure the stop is clear of the chamber and operating freely. If it continues to do so, shorten the turnbuckle on the pitman arm for it a couple of turns.
 
If you have old style brake shoes they can wear and the pads no longer have any tension. You can remove them and grind the surfaces down to match the worn parts. If they are new style make shoes aren't stuck and have proper tension.
 

I think that I would be getting new brake pads even if they looked like they still had plenty of meat.
 
donjr, the needles are always partly cycled when this happens, so would this rule out your suggestion?
 
You have to look at your tying cycle. IF the needles are tying, returning to home, then bouncing off home, look at your brake. If the needles are ALL the way back, look at your chamber stop. It's there to protect the needles. If the needles are stopping anywhere forward of home, there has to be a reason for it. But the shearing of the safety bolt is usually due to the bale head stop being into the chamber for some reason. If the needles are homed, it has to be an adjustment problem or a lube problem on the safety stop. Big thing is, you do not want the needles anywhere near the chamber on the compression stroke of the head.
 
(quoted from post at 11:51:53 03/02/13) Big thing is, you do not want the needles anywhere near the chamber on the compression stroke of the head.

Every properly operating sq baler that I owned or worked on was on the "compression stroke" when the needles were pulled into the bale chamber & knotter.
 

BillinAZ
If the needles are partially in the bale chamber I strongly suspect the needle brake is at fault. The random flywheel shear bolt problem leans toward faulty needle brake. In all my years repairing/owning JD sq balers I can't remember the trip dog once engaged not pulling needles through their cycle.
 
JIm, the problem we had was the needle arm was engaging the dog and holding it out of the chamber, but not far enough. The pitman had a couple of angular bends, and a clevis on the needle arm. The pitman had straightened some over the years because of the bends in it, and allowed the dog to protrude just up into the chamber, and the head would catch it at an irregular time and shear the shear bolt. It may have just been wear in the connecting pins, but was a pain in the ask to find. And I may be wrong, but my needles on my 14T come into the chamber during the decomp stroke, tie and are moved out during the start of the compession stroke, so they are not in the chamber at all when the head is the chamber....
 
I thought that what broke out of time needles was the hay that is being pushed by the plunger head, not the head itself. On a New Holland at least, the needles come up as the plunger head enters the chamber. The head has slots in it for this reason. Someone tell me if I am goofed up on this.

Timing is everything, at least on square balers!

Garry
 
(quoted from post at 15:28:01 03/02/13) And I may be wrong, but my needles on my 14T come into the chamber during the decomp stroke, tie and are moved out during the start of the compession stroke, so they are not in the chamber at all when the head is the chamber....

If your 14T operates as you describe it needs to be "timed correctly". Yes the PH stop mechanism can wear/stretch to allow stop to contact PH or arm prematurely. This is common malfunction on newer JD balers such as the 336. The arm(boomerang parts key #12) that needle frame contacts stretches(angle increases) and allows this to happen.
15226.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:17:52 03/02/13) I thought that what broke out of time needles was the hay that is being pushed by the plunger head, not the head itself. On a New Holland at least, the needles come up as the plunger head enters the chamber. The head has slots in it for this reason. Someone tell me if I am goofed up on this.
Timing is everything, at least on square balers!Garry

Garry
You are correct. Without hay in chamber PH will not break/contact needles while tying cycle is completed. I've also seen on JD 336 balers the pin that connects the crank arm to PH get loose/slide over and bend/break needle when needle went up through slot in PH on tying cycle.
 
the knotter drive chain sprocket has a brass pin in it. Sometimes that pin gets partially sheared and the knotter and needle lift arm will get partially out of time. Check that pin. Also, make sure the needles are timed perfectly.
 

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