New Holland Bale Wagon

I'm thinking about getting a New Holland 1034 balewagon but know nothing about them. What is there to watch out for on these things?
 
My only experience is with a NH1010 Bale Wagon. 1)Don't buy one that is not ready to go to the field. 2)Don't buy one unless the owner can show and explain to you how everything works, or you can take a knowledgeable, experienced operator of that model with you to look at it and try it out. Take notes. I didn't buy mine, and wouldn't buy another one, without the operator's manual. 3)Read the manual until you understand it. Realize that there are two safe places for an operator, 1) on your tractor seat or 2) at the operator controls on the right hand side of the Bale Wagon.

Adjust your tractor hitch, pickup snout, and pto according to the dimensions listed in the manual. Keep the roller and paddle chains snug, don't wait til the next load to adjust a loose chain. I carefully dribble used engine oil on the chains, oil and grease all moving parts each day of operation.

At 65+ years of age, they are a lifesaver for an moderately experienced tractor and ag machinery operator. I don't think a first time operator should be let near one. IMHO

Good luck. I certainly enjoy my 1010 Bale Wagon!!
 
these things are pretty rare around here so finding someone that is experienced with them is hard, thats why im asking here
 
If you have flat ground, maybe all right. If you have much for hills, forget it. We tried 1 out years ago. Two trips around the field and sent it back.
 
I have a 1003 and have had pretty good luck with it. You can pick up hay in hills if you have enough tractor in front and don't drive like a maniac. It works better to have the loader on the uphill side and pickup going uphill on really steep slopes. A 1034 will have its own hydraulic system so checking the oil to see what it looks like and checking the bale loader chain and 1st table chain as those are likely pricey from NH. Look it over for cracks in the frame and checking pivot points for wear, also make sure the push off feet and arms work freely and aren't bound or bent up. A book is mandatory and there is a learning curve as they aren't as straightforward to learn as other implements. If you don't make solid consistent length bales that will need to be your first step. If you are used to just stuffing it in as fast as you can go any time you save baling you will pay back threefold when you are out there picking them up. They are a great time saver if you make solid even bales and take the time to learn how to use it otherwise it will make for a miserable afternoon for you. roderimp.com is a website for Roder implement in Kansas they deal mainly in bale wagons and have great information on bale wagons.[/url]
 
hills arent a problem here and neither is having enough tractor on the front. Im just thinking a machine like this would cut down on labour (cant find people who want to handle idiot cubes around here). Another question, does the 1034 have the single unload feature?
 
Mel gave good advise, I will add that one of the most important things is to have a tight equal sized bale, I liked a 42" long bale as they would make a very good three wide stack, I had a 1002 I leased several years that worked well it was just to small for me, I then bought a 1034 and run it for 10 years and I loved it, one thing a 1034 has that a 1033 does not is a hyd returned 3rd table rack, you must hold the 3rd table lever until it returns to the forward position each time you unload, I liked this better as the 1033 has a spring return rack that does require some maintance, not bad but it does wear out the brake shoes every few years depending on how much you use it, other than the chute chain and the pump drive chain there is not much that wears out I did replace the chute skid shoes once also but that was mostly from the PO who did not adjust the height and it rubbed the ground too much, our hills here was not too bad except going down hill you some times would need to stop the 2nd table until you got more level as it could make it fall, depending on the hill usually I would just lock the table up at the end of its cycle to hold the row inplace then when I got at the bottom release it and all was fine, putting a tier tye in at the 5th row worked best for me and made the stacks very stable, however that is something also very important to stacking the best stack yards I made by gradeing the area to have the outside of the stack rows higher than the middel to make the satck lean towards the center, you can have the stack run uphill with great results also, stacking on a down hill slope takes a bit of practice and is to be avoided if at all posibble, another tip I liked to do was to lay down and stake ribbon to line up the drawbar with on each row this makes learning how to stack much easier, also with a tractor balewagon it is easy to "pack" each stack in tight to the previous one, I liked a 80-100hp tractor on mine mainly for weight when stacking and also I hauled/delivered 200-300 ton to customers 5-10 miles from my field and the 100hp tractor ran upill no problem in road gear with out shifting, hope this helps you a bit, I myself if I still baled any amount of small squares would not be without one they worked tha well for me and I put up 125000 bales a year with mine good luck cnt
 
yes the 1034 can do that I never tried doing it but the book says it will and shows how, mainly that was for grinding hay, now picking a complete stack back up would be in my mind the hardest thing to do
 
consistent bale length and good tight bales are your biggest keys to success. They are good machines, you just have to learn the art of running them. I put two tie tiers in my stacks, the third and sixth tiers. I usually get off and straighten the ties up by hand, sure seems to make them want to stand better. Check the push off feet, they can usually be straightened, and them getting bent from time to time is pretty normal. 1034 is a pretty good wagon if it's in decent shape. Hope this helps
 
im looking to upgrade balers to something newer this year aswell so we should be good there aswell. I was talking to a mechanic friend that works at the dealership where this machine is and he says they took it on a trade, did a bunch of work on it, now they cant get rid of it. There is no demand for a machine like this around here anymore, everyone has gone to rounds or big sqaures now. They dropped the price quite a bit since last fall and im thinking i can get them down further. im going to look at it tomorrow
 
You can make them stack in almost all conditions. Takes some practice, but they really aren't that complicated. I started running our pull type (1037) at the age of 15, and after the first day, started getting along pretty well. You will learn some the hard way, as in your stack will fall over, and you'll be out there hand stacking it, but you won't make the same mistake again. There are tons of adjustments, and sometimes you'll have to change them from field to field, or depending on what baler baled the hay. Lots and lots of practice will help. I stacked close to 100,000 bales one summer with that 1037. Now, for the weak points.

These are the spots most likely to have broke, and been fixed, so look for welds. The load arm. It hangs out there, and every time you hit a bale, and beats on it a little. If you set it too high, then it stresses it loading the bale, set it too low, and it digs into the ground They often are broken. Secondly, and mainly only a problem on pull types, is the rolling rack. Just not strong enough, plus trying to unload partial loads, and they often will be broken off, and re-welded. Check the frame, I know ours had been broken. Also check the rims real close, we had several crack, and break the centers out. Not a huge deal, just gotta buy a new rim. Other than that, just look at the chain wear, and hydraulic leaks, (hoses, valves, cylinders, motors, etc...) but that can all be repaired if need be. Finally, check all the pins on the tables. Just my observations.

David
 
XLNT advice and suggestions here.

Steve, I usually unload one at a time onto a bale elevator. The 1010 manual has two sections several pages apart that must be read at the same time if you want to unload one at a time, but I still wouldn't have it figured out if the previous owner hadn't explained it well to me. My Bale Wagon has to be close to level when unloading the 3rd table back onto the tilted and locked second table that the single unloading occurs from or some of the top row may fall off.

My 1010 wagon came from a moderately hilly area and the first two tables had 1" strips welded on as sideboards. I have loaded some uphill, some downhill, but mostly on sideslopes very effectively. The ground I am haying is steep enough to require bench or pushup terraces. Loading on any hillside requires slowing down enough so you don't bounce the bales on the first or second tables. The 1" sideboards on mine may help a lot in the hills, but how rough the ground is limits the speed more than the slope. If your bales are bouncing on the first or second tables and hang over the edge when that table is tripped you will observe a guillotine effect on the overhanging bale(s)!!
 
I have a NH1032. When I unload and bring table two back down I then stick 4 rebars bent at both ends and about 3-4 feet long into the bales to hold them together until I get the next stack end. I have made several and sometimes leave them in until I feed.
 

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