Food Plot Drag Disk Question?

rasman57

Member
I want to split a gang of 18 (9 foot disk) into two separate four foot disks. With all of the cutters running the same way will that four foot disc track bad? Most small ones I have seen have half the cutters left and half right. I cant reverse half of them but I can angle the ne hitch I want to add. What do you think will allow the little drag disk to pull straight?
 
Google a picture of an off set disc and it will give you an idea of how it looks.
If all the disc run the same way you would have what is called a disc tiller or a one way. Which requires wheels to keep it running straight.
 
Will you put one set behind the other? Or just pull
a single 4 ft section? Anything can be done but you
will probably have to experiment with your hitch to
get it to pull right. Trial and error. Yes, if you
want to put one 4 ft section behind the other you
will have a 4 ft "offset" disc. One set of discs
will cancel out the side draft of the other. (more
or less depending if the front or read is running
deeper and pulling harder) Adjust accordingly.
 
I prefer to drag just one 4 foot section as it will fit better for the food plots and getting to them. I also can pick it up and store it indoors and protect the old iron I cleaned up and got functioning well.

My thought was to pivot mount the pull bar onto the four foot section and tug it to determine how much turn those discs want to cant it off to side due to them all being one direction and then mark the angle onto the iron and tighten the pivot, weld up the pull bar at that angle and be good to go. The neighbor thinks the angle will basically be the same as the angle of the "dish" on the individual disc cutters. I have this decent old drag disk apart and it would be real handy to be able to use half and have it cut mostly straight.

What do you think...
 
I know a person likes to make use of what you have one hand, but the little 6 or 7 foot pull type disks dont sell for much. I have an IH and a John Deere. Good for gardens, food plots, etc. They are flexible, pull nice and leave a good finish. I have even contemplated trying to pull one with my ATV

Gene
 
1. You can't use one single 4 foot piece with a single slant. Will not work.

You can have 2 gangs side by side, or you can have one gang behind the other, but you always need 2 gangs opposing each other or the disk will just roll off to one side and not do much.

2. Welding a perminent angle in a disk is not the best idea, sometimes need shallow or full cut. instead drill 4 holes and make adjustable with a bolt.

--->Paul
 
I'm not sure how you hold it but they used single disc plows called "one-ways" in wheatland country for years. An easy option might be to mount it 3 point.

onewayplowsdiskers1.jpg
 
I do think the 3 point will make the problems with the discs all mounted one direction less of an issue and have started to plan the simple frame modification. Tracking can't be too bad then and I can control the disc at the ends of the foodplots by lifting for turns.
 
(quoted from post at 16:51:26 01/24/13) I'm not sure how you hold it but they used single disc plows called "one-ways" in wheatland country for years. An easy option might be to mount it 3 point

T rear wheel running in the furrow helps hold the disk tillers plus one has to have the front disks set a tiny bit higher than the rear disks.
 
(quoted from post at 00:36:53 01/25/13) I do think the 3 point will make the problems with the discs all mounted one direction less of an issue and have started to plan the simple frame modification. Tracking can't be too bad then and I can control the disc at the ends of the foodplots by lifting for turns.

The 3pt disk tillers were notorious for being hard to control the direction that the tractor was intended to be going. I'll vote with Nebraska Cowman to fabricate your implement in an offset disk type configuration similar to this photo.
14112.jpg
 
The thing that made the "one way" work was the humongous
(large and heavy) tail wheel that followed the plow. Sometimes a
box of dirt was positioned over it so that there wasn't so much
steel and cost involved but got the desired result.

It had a way of overcoming inertia even on a 16' diagonal (as
shown) plow. Twas one of the favorite sod busting plows here in
the Blacklands of N. Texas years ago. Today they just use huge
tractors and very heavy tandem disc harrows running over the
field a couple of times.

I have used a single gang in a 3 point configuration, and you
cannot control the tractor. The force of the plow working
against the soil has a tremendous steering force that makes a
single gang useless for me.

On the offset you have the second set of blades to counter the
torque of the first set. Thing about them is that they work best
the longer they are....the farther back the second gang is from
the front....within reason. It's foot-pounds (of torque) you are
dealing with.

The front gang is fighting uncut soil so there is a lot of twisting
torque. The following gang is just putting dirt back so there is a
lot less torque. Therefore to equalize torque, as said either raise
the front gang to bite less thus offer less twisting torque, or get
a long boom and set the rear gang farther to the rear to get
some "feet" to go with the "pounds" of counter torque. Neighbor
has one that is quite large and overall it's probably twice as long
as wide for the reason stated.

My 2c and experience.
Mark
 

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