John Deere plow

Do not remember what your plow is but the Jointers for a cast beam plow (No. 4, No. 52 and like) will not fit on a bar beam type as a No. 44, No. 55, 810, 412, and so on.
 
This is my 4B without jointers. You are right , you don't need them. If you plow tall grass etc, use a log chain and hang from coulter mount area and let dangle back so the plowed ground covers the tail end of it and it will cover anything up to 4-5' cover crops. Neighbor plowed rye taller than his tractor one year and never as much as a sprig of grass showing when done. Really a pretty sight to watch.
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I can;t tell you anything about JD plows, but I can tell you that on a IHC Little Genius, when you get the jointers set right you'll love them! No more green sticking up, and you get that even with a wire of chain. You'll also find that the furrow rolls over more, no more "standing on edge" which is something we get all the time on our heavy clays.

When they work, they work fantastic. Getting them set.......that takes some time and head scratching.
 

Final adjustments must be made with the plow in the ground and at the depth you will be plowing..

Set the Jointer to be just touching the side of the Coulter and about 1"- 2" (average) into the soil..

Anytime you change the adjustment of the Coulter, you need to re-adjust the Jointer too..

Ron..
 
(quoted from post at 17:57:38 01/20/13) OK, I bought a set of jointers for my plow. Without discussing what a dumb move that was--- could someone please describe for me how to locate them on the beams and how to adjust them for height? Thanks, Ellis Kinney


Already did:

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?p=5697731&highlight=#5697731

If you use Classic View, I can understand not seeing my post.

(quoted from post at 02:52:16 12/31/12) I run beam-mount jointers on my 44. I set the bottom of the jointer 5" from the share, so when I plow at 6-7" the jointer is cutting 1-2" deep. I run the top corner of the jointer's shin 9.5" forward of the top corner of the shin of the plow bottom. Looking from above, I run the left edge of the jointer in line with the left edge of the share. That way, if you have your coulter .5 to .75" away from the share, there's some breathing room there so jointer isn't always rubbing on the coulter and wearing away.

The forward and back adjustment: run it forward enough so there's room behind it for the clean soil to pass, and yet leave enough room in between the jointer and the coulter hub for the jointer slice to turn.

I can't stress enough, 95% of people's frustration with jointers, besides maladjustment, is dull coulters. Trash will wrap around a dull coulter blade, come back around and plug the jointer. Coulters must be sharp! Use an angle grinder! If you aren't afraid of cutting your hand, they're not sharp enough. When I plow all day long, it will take 4-6 hours before I start to notice the coulter dulling and the jointer trying to plug, and then it's time to sharpen.

And, of course, if you shares are dull and riding the plow out, or your hitch is not adjusted correctly, you will have problems with jointers because they need to run in the ground consistently. If the plow is bopping up and down, you're going to introduce trash into the jointer.

There was one sticky fall jointers worked better than trashboards because the trashboards caused scouring problems. I wouldn't even try jointers in corn stalks, that's where trashboards shine.

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