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Re: jointers on 4B
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I run beam-mount jointers on my 44. I set the bottom of the jointer 5" from the share, so when I plow at 6-7" the jointer is cutting 1-2" deep. I run the top corner of the jointer's shin 9.5" forward of the top corner of the shin of the plow bottom. Looking from above, I run the left edge of the jointer in line with the left edge of the share. That way, if you have your coulter .5 to .75" away from the share, there's some breathing room there so jointer isn't always rubbing on the coulter and wearing away.
The forward and back adjustment: run it forward enough so there's room behind it for the clean soil to pass, and yet leave enough room in between the jointer and the coulter hub for the jointer slice to turn.
I can't stress enough, 95% of people's frustration with jointers, besides maladjustment, is dull coulters. Trash will wrap around a dull coulter blade, come back around and plug the jointer. Coulters must be sharp! Use an angle grinder! If you aren't afraid of cutting your hand, they're not sharp enough. When I plow all day long, it will take 4-6 hours before I start to notice the coulter dulling and the jointer trying to plug, and then it's time to sharpen.
And, of course, if you shares are dull and riding the plow out, or your hitch is not adjusted correctly, you will have problems with jointers because they need to run in the ground consistently. If the plow is bopping up and down, you're going to introduce trash into the jointer.
There was one sticky fall jointers worked better than trashboards because the trashboards caused scouring problems. I wouldn't even try jointers in corn stalks, that's where trashboards shine.
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