JD 3- Series square Balers

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Recently I posted a question about New Holland 3 series balers as I am looking to upgrade for next year. Got some good suggestions from some people pointing me towards a 311 or 316. Thought it might be good to ask the same about JD balers- that is: 336, 346, 327, 337. I know there are a couple of other 3 series models, but I think they are overkill for me. Small operation here, maybe 4,000 bales per year, looking for solid dependable baler, and would like to stay under $5,000 with a thrower.
 
The 336 and 327 balers were very good,I can not think of anything bad to say or of any weak points on them.We have had several 336's and a new 327.The bigger pickup on the larger balers is nice but may not be worth the extra cost in what you will use it.You will be able to get a very sharp 336 or 327 for your price range.
 
I've got a 327. It's a decent baler but it's not much in the capacity department. I'd go for a 336/337 as a minimum if I had a choice...
The smaller one works fine for the most part... but if you were using a Kuhns accumulator... it doesn't make bales fast enough to make the accumulator work properly.

Rod
 
The second digit tells you where the model is in the capacity range: 2= low 3= meduim 4=upper meduim. Last digit tells relative age; 6, 7, 8. I ran a 328 this summer for an afternoon and I got real tired of the low capacity. I admit to heavy bias, but from what I've seen a well tuned NH 316 will keep up with or outperform any 14x18 Deere baler.
A NH 570, 575, BC5060 or BC5070 will flat bury a Deere.
 
One thing I do find with the little Deere's... if you wind them up a bit more (overspeed) than they're rated for they do bale quite a bit more. They also take a bit more than you might first expect... mine always looks like it's going to wrap the auger but it does actually take some pushing... but it is still a low capacity baler. Just not as pathetic as it first appears.

Rod
 
We have been running a 336 for over a decade now and it has been fine for us. We are doing around 3,000 bales a year and not having to push the baler at all. The wider pickup on a "7" or "8" series JD baler would be nice, though.

I have nothing against NH balers other than the local dealers are not the greatest to work with for sales or parts. For me the service I get from my JD dealer pushes them ahead.
 

Be sure to check foe excessive rust under the knotters. If it has rusted thin it will have trouble tying.
 
I've run a few Deere balers, and the one thing that was always a problem was the belt driven pickup. I drove for my cousin and if the hay was knocked down before being cut and we tried to go the opposite direction when baling, it would just slip the belt and stop the pickup. Had to turn around or move over to another windrow.

Our Massey #12 was giving us fits a while back so we borrowed the neighbors baler to get the hay done. I had raked it double (2 x 14' windrows) and I shouldn't have, so the windrows were extremely full. The hay was dry and the quality was fine, but the pickup couldn't pull it in as it would jam up under the fingers over the pickup and nothing I could do would make it feed any better.

I've never been very impressed with the deere balers, and that's coming from a guy who runs a Massey #12 (low capacity, small, and old) every year. One thing that NEVER gives me any issues is the pickup.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
(quoted from post at 00:21:50 12/29/12) I've run a few Deere balers, and the one thing that was always a problem was the belt driven pickup. Donovan from Wisconsin

There's only a few reasons the PU drive belt would slip on a JD sq baler. Worn out belt,tension spring not tight enough or problems with the PU cam &/or brgs.
 
Last summer, I bought a 348 with less than 1000 bales through it. (estate auction)

I've owned other Deere balers, all sorts of New Holland, and a couple MF's. I do believe I've found the best square baler ever built. You just have to have enough tractor in front of it to see it's real capabilities.
 
(quoted from post at 07:29:14 12/29/12) There are no better built balers than a Deere. Some may be as good, but none are better.

I see plenty of guys with Deere tractors and NH balers...I'm one. A lot comes down to dealer support. What's the use of a JD baler when no dealer is close by. We have one Deere baler, but I use NH mostly because I have a dealer nearby with a good parts inventory.
 
Agreed. Our 347 will eat all kinds of material if well maintained. Just a matter of putting enough power ahead of it to get it to realize its potential. I also agree with those that say dealer support is huge in making the decision. At this point we get the best support out of our Deere dealer.
 
I got a Deere 346, I bought it at auction for $1000, I fixed it up and it works great. Personally I think JD make the nicest most uniform bale, Deere balers are also the only balers that leave a groove in the hay were the twine lays, to help keep the twine on the bale! I guess what ever works, but I like Deere, I posted a pic of it yesterday over on tractor talk.
 
I run 2ea JD 336's. The dealer is close so parts are easy to get but pricey. I have only ever run JD's but I am told since the flywheel is in line with the plunger head, they bale with lesser force on the tractor when compressing. I am also told the bales are tight and square. I sell & deliver small squares so stack ability and looks are important.
 
I agree, iv seen many NH balers make what I call banana bales, my friend has a 316 I think it is, alot of the thrower bales are curved, yet when he makes them bigger for his stacker, with a 1/4 turn chute, to pick up, they are more square! Lol
 
I built my business with a 336 my dad bought new the first year they came out. Well over a quarter million bales through it and its been a good machine. Started having problems two years ago with metal fatigue as well as timing issues. Finally replaced both chains this past summer. Baled like a new one. I had the right knotter rebuilt by Deere three years ago. Left one was acting sketchy but I tried keeping it in the field 3 more days. Big mistake. Something went wrong somewhere and broke a knotter frame. A complete new one is 1500 and Deere wanted another 600 to change it out. I found a very good used one for just a couple hundred more so now I guess Im staying with a 336, at least I have a parts machine...
 

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