JD-327 Square baler.

Yes sir that's the one. It seems to be locked in the field position and I can't budge it but it's loose if you shake it. Just won't swing straight ahead.
Thanks for the reply
 
I'd like to help you, but I'm afraid there's no hope for you...If you can't figure out how to swing the tongue on a baler, then how in God's name are you ever going to figure out how to run the baler itself??
 
Well sir: I can run the baler and put out a pretty nice bale. The bar has never been moved out of field position in 20 some odd years, and removing the pin dosn't work. So I just was asking in case there's some little thing I'm missing.
Thank you
 
I"d jack up the front of the baler frame, unhook from the tractor, and try to move it. That long in position? Maybe pivot is rusted solid.
 
I have tried that and I'm afraid your right. Years back I saw my brother try to back up the tractor and swing it but that didn't work either.

Thanks again
 

I used to have a 336 and IIRC, the crossmember under it could get bent up from hitting a rock or something so that it kind of pinches off so that the pole cannot slide.
 
On my NH 268, I release the latch, put a good sized wedge, chunk of firewood, etc, behind the right baler wheel, and gently back up the tractor. Can get quite a bit of torque to move tongue that way.
 
Thank you, I considered that but more worried about the tractor than the baler. Think I'll just keep spraying with wd40 or blaster and try again this spring.
 
I have a few nasty ideas about anchoring the baler with a couple of tractors and whacking it with something bigger....after checking for bent, binding parts, like another poster suggested....but maybe the best is to clean out all hay, hit the pivot with an oxy torch, with a rosebud tip..........maybe stick some candlewax on it as it cools, and try moving it. Wax melts between stuck parts, threads, etc....and loosens things. WD40 used to be good, new formulation is xxxx pizz.
 
(quoted from post at 21:25:21 12/16/12) The bar has never been moved out of field position in 20 some odd years, and removing the pin dosn't work. Thank you

Since it hasn't been changed out of field position in around 20 yrs I'll bet the telescoping shaft is rusty and you'll have to heat it with a torch & lubricate it so it can slide. Parts key #7 is stuck inside parts key #9. You cam remove parts keys #13 and slide the shield(parts key #8 or 19) forward for am inspection. If this isn't the problem then I'd suggest looking at the rear pivot area of the tongue.
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If it's loose but won't swing it could be the pto shaft as Jim said. Try removing the front pto support from the tongue and try to swing it then. Our 346 has worn the pto shaft slide so it catches if stopped with pressure on the driveline. Acts te same way when trying to cross over to transport position.
 
Put a block behind the right baler wheel, remove the lock pin and drag the tractor around on the right brake so you jamb the pole over into transport. Shouldn't be anything to really restrict it other than the weight sitting on the pole...

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 06:54:39 12/17/12) I have a few nasty ideas about anchoring the baler with a couple of tractors and whacking it with something bigger....after checking for bent, binding parts, like another poster suggested....but maybe the best is to clean out all hay, hit the pivot with an oxy torch, with a rosebud tip..........maybe stick some candlewax on it as it cools, and try moving it. Wax melts between stuck parts, threads, etc....and loosens things. WD40 used to be good, new formulation is xxxx pizz.


Thanks for all the replies, finally got the main pivot bolt loose with a 4ft cheater bar and loosened the support brackets. got it moving but it will only move about 3 inches. Well I took tx Jim's advice and glad I did. The shaft has to be siezed at the end like he said but my safety shield won't move back enough to access it and so far have had no luck knocking the u-joint loose. Three front bolts toward tractor have been removed and I may just try pulling the shaft out with a comealong if I can find a way to grab the forward part of the shaft.
 
(quoted from post at 14:18:08 01/07/13) .


Thanks for all the replies, finally got the main pivot bolt loose with a 4ft cheater bar and loosened the support brackets. got it moving but it will only move about 3 inches. Gonna try to apply tractor power.[/quote]

Sound as if you haven't checked the telescoping driveshaft to see that it's seized. 3" movement of tongue isn't very much.
 
You hit the nail on the head. It has to be siezed in the rear 7-9,I have the front shield off and the rear shield (steel) won't slide out enough to expose the joint and so far have had no success removing the u-joint. The shaft won't pull forward or to the rear. Thinking of trying to yank it free from the front with a chain behind the u-joint.
 

On my 347 baler if the plastic shield retainer clips are removed the rear "shorter" shield will slide forward exposing the stuck shafts then you could apply the torch heat.
 
TXJim:
I'm sure your right on the shaft being stuck at the baler end #7 to #9. Going by your diagram, I have removed 3 #1 bolts and nuts and retaining clips #13. The metal shield #8 will only go forward far enough to access grease port and the entire shaft will not move forward in direction of tractor pto. I tried pulling the entire shaft out with a comealong but no luck. Can you think of any way to get the entire shaft out so I can take it to town and have a dealer seperate the shaft? Any more help would be appreciated.
 
On this 327 it will only move enough to expose the u-joint. It's a metal tube, if it was plastic I would slit it and remove. How hard is it to remove the shaft at clutch? At this stage I may have to pull the bolt on draw bar, seperate at the clutch and take the entire assy to town.
A straight pull with comealong wouldn't budge it.
 

Have you tried forcing the short metal shield forward?? I just went through freeing up the same type shaft on a 347 baler and the shield in question slid forward. The slip/overrunning clutch assembly is easy to remove(drive out 1 roll pin) except the shaft in question has to slide on the solid hex shaft for easy removal. Clutch removal can be accomplished by removing tongue attaching bolt and sliding tongue,pto & clutch forward.If this was my baler I'd just cut the metal shield off with a cutting torch and proceed to heat the 2 shafts. I'll bet a JD dealer service dept will charge you $250-$300+ to fee the shafts.
 
I agree with you 100%. Since the baler is for sale I put it back togeather again and will wait and see what potential buyer has to say. To a local it may not make any difference and if they say it has to be fixed I'll cut the shield off and use a torch. Thank's again for all your help and advice.
Regards
rrr_ranch
 
(quoted from post at 06:18:24 01/10/13) I agree with you 100%. Since the baler is for sale I put it back togeather again and will wait and see what potential buyer has to say. To a local it may not make any difference and if they say it has to be fixed I'll cut the shield off and use a torch. Thank's again for all your help and advice.
Regards
rrr_ranch

rrr_ranch
I would think that the pto shaft will need to be freed up if you sell the baler so the baler can be transported either by towing or hauling.
 
Hi:

The front shaft is free and loose and you can push it all the way in so when it rests in the round hook holder it is even with the front of baler tongue. Granted it will be awkward to tow or load and I may have to fix before sale. So far, I have had little response to my ads. January may not be best time to sell the thing.

Thanks
 

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