Can you suggest how I adjust this Disk set..

jim cancil

New User
I just got these pull-behind disks a couple of days ago and the geometry is a little confusing to me..

To the left of the Y in the pull bar is an adjustment that allows me to move the center of the pull from the center to the right as you are looking toward the front - but I thought it would turn the front gang to the right, but it only seems to move the whole unit to offset it to where the tractor wheels are?

There is a locking device that is missing a control arm at the right (looking toward the front) that has some unknown to me purpose?!

I thought the toothed arm that comes forward from the center would allow me to adjust the take up/push back of the pitman arm that is attached to gang #2 ..but it does not seem to have as much effect as I would have thought...?

As heavy as these buggers are for me to muscle around - they did not seem to cut that deep in a raw grass/weed pasture. I added a concrete car barrier to the front .. then moved it to the back to the back.. Should I add a couple more?

Does it make sense to have smaller disks on the back than front. I am eyeballing them, not measuring.

Of course, I don't exactly know what to expect from them, so my ignorance is on full display. I would certainly appreciate any direction. Thanks. Jim
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IMHO the reason the disks are smaller on the rear gang is because the disks on the frt gang have been replaced. That plow sure resembles a JD Kilifer offset.
 
Wow. I'd have to play with all that linkage adjustment to make sense of it, things sometimes work opposite of what a first glance would look like.....

Disks would come with and work best with the same size blades front and back. Likely your disk would work better with new blades on the rear. When folks try to save some money, they put the biggest blades on the front where they do the most good, and leave smaller blades on the rear.

Weight typically does best on the front gang first. I'd suggest weight on the front like you put on the rear, and figuring out how to angle the blades more.

Be aware tho, more weight makes the disk work harder, and rock damage, and overall wear adds up faster with weight. Just the nature of things.

A disk works best in soft dirt, like damp (not wet!) spring time. In a hard baked fall dry period, it's common for a disk to not get into the ground very easily no matter what you do.

--->Paul
 
Not so sure aboiu the setting although I think it would be mainly only to make them track in the right alignment. But as for not penetrating I have used this sort of discs for 60 odd years and they are only designed for worked up ground, like from ploughing or heavier discs. If you try to use tandems for first cut work you will break blades and wreck the frame
 
I have two of this type "Offset Disc's", the more angle you set them at the more aggressive they will cut, in the straightest position they are for transport and will not cut all all just roll, as to the comment they are only for "worked ground" that is not the case at all for my two any way they will work up sod if need be just not in one pass, it is best on them to turn to the left when doing a sharp corner as they will dig in harder and it will put extra stress on the front RH disc blades cnt
 
They are designed as a primary tillage tool. Years ago the first one I ever saw when the neighbor bought a new John Deere 70 tractor he bough one and got rid of the moldboard plow, used it for all the heavy tillage.
 
here is a shot of one mine a "CO" Case one a dam repair job I did last year it is a 6' wide unit, I was using it to chop and mix the "chunky" dirt and also it mixed the different types of soil I used to make the repair stronger, hope you don't mind I threw in a couple to explain the job a little better cnt
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The curved flat bar with notches is what sets the angle for the gangs. As Nutty said, the steeper the angle the deeper the cut. Just pull the lever and pull forward or back up to adjust. The adjustment on the tongue is to set the hitch so the disc pulls straight. They will pull sideways when working and that will vary depending on the gang setting, so you will need to move the hitch from one side to the other depending on the gang setting or for transport.
 
Thanks all.. Nutty it's nice to see your pictures. I am a visual person. Windows were always more interesting than school books.

Luckily, I do not have a pebble in my sandy soil. Great advice about turning to the Left.. turning right was creating a whole different scene (mess) at the end of my rows. I can see why they added a dolly between the gangs ..then have 3pt. for smaller ones.

..and it makes sense; if the fronts do more work, then you would replace them first. I thought there might be some 'science' about Lg/Sml.. but it's just being practical/frugal.

Graham - you're a luck fellow with such a beautiful country. We Yanks get to visit it by simply going to the movies.

Cheers all.

Jim
 
like the others say,but the adjustment on the tongue is to OFFSET the disc to the side of tractor.allows you to work under trees and things while keeping tractor out of the branches. hence the offset in offset disc. used everywhere these days but originaly designed for orchard work. normaly you would have two ropes on that rig.one to set the angle or depth of cut ,the other to set offset. when working in a orchard you could simply pull offset rope and swing disc back behind tractor as you turned etc on end of tree row. pull it again and swing disc back to side when working other side of tree row. allows you to make far shorter turns at ends when implement is behind tractor. that disc appears to offset to right side of tractor ,so of course you would have to turn right to work both sides of trees.if it were far off set you would have to swing way wide to keep disc from hitting tractor tire.some you have to back up, some you dont,most new ones are hydraulicly set these days of course.the amount of offset you needed would depend on the size of your trees.
 

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