Outside disc tract

maxwell99

Well-known Member
I have a 6ft Altas 300, 3 pt disc, it has 18" blades and all notched blades, front and rear gangs.

Nice disc and cuts good, but it leaves a deep ditch on the outside of each rear gang.

i have tried pulling a drag, but the outside rear notch blades catch on the drag and sometimes, bind up the rear gangs,

would it be possible to cut the rear gang, outside blades down some, say 3 inches, this would cut the notches out of the blades back to a smooth blade,

this might stop the rear blades from catching my drag and also leave smaller outside furrows.

another thing I have seen is sometype extention you weld or bolt onto the outside blade that has an smaller disc blade and this blade fills in the ditch of the regular outside blade,

do not know if this trick would stop the notch blades from catching the drag.

any ideas would be helpful before next years garden plowing starts.

this year i just did not use my drag, but it left the gardens rougher.

Thanks.

picture of a disc like mine
a91349.jpg
 
i have a similar disc...i run the rear gangs so the blades cut between the front gangs...the rears actually measure 6.5' when theyre slid out to the end of the rectangular tubing...in real loose sand you may have to pick disc up so it doesnt cut so deep and cover the furrows.
 
You have the rear gang set a steep as it will go,pull the center back to flatten out the rear gang, then it won t ridge as bad.
 
Agri-Supply has furrow filler extensions that bolt to the ends of the rear gangs that allow you to put an extra small-diameter blade at the end of each axle to fill the furrow. However, I don't know if they will bolt to your particular disk or not.
 
Yes, as 504 says, your setup is likely wrong. Shortn the top link, so the weight is more evenly distributed, the disk front gang throws the dirt out, the rear gang pulls it back in, shorten the top link to get a better balance.

--->Paul
 
JD;

I had the same problem. Shortening the top link did help. I was told they don't cut as well if the gangs are straighter.

Larry
 
Most 3-point disc's I've seen were put together wrong for using them. The rear gangs need to be moved outward somewhat. They also need to be set one or two positions less aggressively than the front gangs. Rear gangs are running in soil that has already been loosened by front gangs, so that soil is easier to move. Hence, rear gang doesn't need to be as aggressive to move same amount of dirt. Don't shorten top link much, or you'll lose the effects of the rear gangs. Disc needs to run LEVEL front to rear for the most part, with SLIGHT adjustments as needed to fine tune. I've got an 8-1/2' Massey Ferguson #25 disc that does an incredibly fine job of working and leveling a seed bed. I use it when building waterways and filter strips. I use a slightly worn down disc blade on the outside of the rear gangs. That takes care of the "dead furrow" effect. As mentioned, move rear gangs outward somewhat. That will lessen the center ridging where rear gangs throw too much dirt in a pile if rear gangs are cutting. I prefer rear gangs to be about one disc spacing wider than front gangs. Also, play with ground speed to tune results. A well adjusted disc often doesn't need a drag behind it to leave a level, well worked seed bed.
 

Using a cutting torch or the disk will ruin the cutting edge.

As previously stated leveling the disk,installing a furrow filler attachment or removing outside rear disk and installing smaller disk on the very outside rear.
 
I fully agree with MF. When I looked at the picture of the disk I thought too that the rear gangs were pushed together too much. I have a 5' three-point disk that is similar to the one shown and it does a nice, even job when the third link is properly adjusted. Without a "furrow filler" (these are usually smaller and have three lobes) blade on the rear gangs it is impossible not to leave small furrows on the edges but the key point is to have the rears moving the same amount of soil back in as the fronts move out. If this is not happening the little furrows will be only a minor annoyance compared to leaving the whole swath uneven.
 
when 3 point disc were about all that was used around most had a drag board mounted on them if set right and the land worked up fine looked like you had ironed it.they were simple made 2 pieces of metal were welded up right just the middle of the frame with a hole in it to attach the arms to that pulled the board, on the back outside corners another piece of metal was welded to the frame as guides,most of the time the arms were angle iron long enough to run the frame from the front bracket to about 6 inches behind the outside rear blades then with the disc sitting on the ground they would weld a leg to each arm long enough to touch the ground,the legs were sloped toward the disc frame these were set at different angles depending on how dirt would be carried ahead of the board trail and error to get right,then a board was bolted to the legs raising the legs just enough to clear the arms off the frame then bore the board and legs for the mounting bolts, boards were usually 2x6 to 2x10 about 8 inches to 12 inches wider than the rear sections of the disc, there again trail and error,if built right it can be flipped forward and rest on the disc and not hit the tires so you can disc without the board and not have to remove it simple cheap and effective
 

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