Welding and turning a damaged shaft

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a hay rake axle that has about a 4 in lenght that is scarred up. What should it cost to get that welded and turned back down to size? Thanks
 
People might make fun of me but on low speed low stress shafts I have welded up and ground it down close with an angle grinder. It isn't right for every application but works fine in some. We call it "hillbilly machinework".
 
I like the way you think. Would I be better off to get it built up brazing it with a brass rod and filing it down or use an electic rod and grind it.
 
(quoted from post at 09:24:33 11/27/12) People might make fun of me but on low speed low stress shafts I have welded up and ground it down close with an angle grinder. It isn't right for every application but works fine in some. We call it "hillbilly machinework".

An angle grinder is quite often referred to as a "poor man's milling machine"

If there is no great amount of precision required, welding it up and grinding it down is as good a way as any to return a machine to productivity.
 
no it's not unless your machinery doesn't mean much to you, a pivot pin in a hitch or linkage maybe yes, a shaft that turns or holds a bearing or bushing definately not
 
My weapon of choice is my wire welder and angle grinder with grinding discs unless a smoother surface is required then use the flap disc to finish up. Is it perfect, no but as the saying goes "poor people have poor ways".
 
I believe in fixing things right...the first time. Not having to do it again later, sometimes after ripping up even more. Plus taking it apart again and finally fixing it like it should have been done in the first place. Just call a machine shop for a price- they've done gazillion before you and can give you an accurate price. No grinder is a turning lathe. Eyeballing doesn't come in a thousandth of an inch tolerance, which is common for fitting a bearing.
 
Depends on what it's used for... and how it's damaged. If this is something that simply has a gash down the length of it and you need to slide a bearing over it... I'd just grind it smooth with a flap disc and slide the bearing on provided it will fit tight. On the other hand... if the bearing has turned on the shaft and worn the radius down you would be better off making a new shaft or at least building this one up and turning it properly. I've built up and ground down with flap discs for fitting sprockets and that type of thing... but to fit a bearnig you need a concentric surface. If you don't have that the bearing will point load and crack the inner race because it's not properly supported... Again... that's a factor of the load applied and the size of the bearing. Sometimes you get away with it but in my experience that's not very often.
Another cheap/nasty trick to get moving, if need be... wrap the shaft in shim stock and fill with green Loctite (Sleeve and Bsaring retaining compound)... That will take up some slack and set it so it works for a while.

Rod
 
One thing not mentioned, and lots of guys are making assumptions, but WHERE on the shaft? WHAT rides there? Bearing? Bushing? Sprocket/gear?

In a pinch, it works and if money is tight, by all means do it. Being a machinist I try to do it right if at all possible but even I have had to weld & grind something down in a pinch.

Some guys are ready to condemn a practice, but some times it's all a guy can do to get the equipment back in the field. While I would build it up and spin it in a lathe if at all possible, it's-your equipment...-your budget...-and your time... Do what suits you and gets the job done.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Its a NH rake axle and the bad place is where the frame bearing attaches to the axle. The axle housing broke and they used a couple muffler clamps to hold it together and they really ate into the axle a place about 4 in wide. I googled info and there is alot of conflicting info on how to weld/build up an axle.
 
Don't think of it as an axle, but just a shaft. I would be very surprised if it's anything more than 1018 cold rolled shaft. If you have a wire feed, that's the best way to go.

Don't turn the welder all the way up, and skip around alot. Weld a line on one side, then do another 180 degrees off, then go maybe 90, then 180, etc... until it's built up. Don't go too fast, and try not to get the whole area glowing red. Best if done on a flat table.

For any kind of a bearing (bushing) surface, I'd like to see it turned down myself.

Where are you located?

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
It is a model 55 NH rake for cryin out loud, it isn't carrying a lot of weight and if you've been to a machine shop lately it ain't cheap. Nothing wrong with the welder and the grinder if you've got more time than money like me.
 
For that... you can probably weld it up decent enough like Don suggested... then grind it reasonably smooth with a flap disc. I'd probably take it a bit under size then use the green Loctite to set it up. Should be OK with that.

Rod
 
Here's one I did without a lathe...... because I couldn't swing it in a lathe.

Threads on a spindle for our 285.

IMG_20120419_163058.jpg

IMG_20120420_113239.jpg

IMG_20120420_115405.jpg

IMG_20120420_135350.jpg


Just another way to skin a cat...

Donovan from Wisconsin
 

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