CASE plow hitch ....to a hitch pin.

Greenfrog

Member
I restored a nice 3 bottom CASE plow. As you know the hitch is a spring loaded hook type trip hitch. That is fine, however for towing down the highway for show and parade, there is a lot of flip-flop in the twist clevis. I wired it in also. Just want to make it road ready, I am thinking about modifying it to hitch -pin type.. for safety. I don't plan to use it for plowing, but want to be able to change it back if neeeded.

Any suggestions on the design for this?
 
From past experience, I would not try to tow a plow down the road, maybe less than 4 miles an hour. The rear wheel will cause the plow to sway back and forth from side to side.
 
Un bolt the clevis assy from the frame/tounge.Then 'manufacture' a pinhitch assy,then bolt it to the frame useing the same holes.Fresh paint and good workmanship and no will ever know....
 
Some of the newer Case plows you can lower the levers and the tail wheel will be locked in stationary position and won't sway. Not sayin you can go 40 mph, buy it does help.
 
This one locks the tail wheel, but the shares also go down. I am just towing it down a blacktop for about 2 miles and then on a bit of gravel to the county fair where the old time area has a display..
 
Yes, I found that out! I am towing behind a tractor or SUV just to the county fair a few miles away...
I am just trying to get rrid of the flip-flop noise of the sloppy hook hitch....quite noisy inside of my vehicle!!
 
I had same problem with my IH trailer plow. I raised the handles up (that action lowers the plow) until the moldboards were only 2" off the road surface. That changes the angle of the rear wheel and the plow will not sway...even with tractor in road gear. When you get to the show, just lower handles to increase the clearance under the moldboards.
I suggest to not pull plow with a truck; things can go wrong real fast with that plow when doing that. Besides, it's more fun driving the tractor anyway!
LA in WI
 
Just make a clevis hitch to bolt on your tractor drawbar like the big tractors have so you just drop a pin through. Thats how I pull my 4-16's case. no swaying that way. I just got some 3/4 thick material, cut it in 3 pieces. one to bolt to the drawbar's second hole. One to weld on to raise it about 3". and one to weld back for the pin hole. Then a couple of triangle braces to hold it together and it works great.
 

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