I have an old champion potato digger, it is ground driven converted to 3 point hitch, but doesn't have enough weight to it esp in the back so it likes to scoot. I would like to convert it to PTO but i have no idea what reduction gears i would need to slow the chain down to where it needs to be, anyone on here can help me with that???
- Thread starter nh8260
- Start date
Handyman
Member
- Location
- Bonneville County, Idaho
If you can get a right angle gearbox with a 2:1 reduction on it and then run a 5 inch sprocket on the output shaft to a 6 inch sprocket on the driveshaft for the apron chain this will give you a apron speed of about 225 rpm, which is just about right for running at two mph approximatly with yor tractor. make darn sure you include some kind of slip clutch or belt on this though because if you get a rock jammed in the apron your chain will be stretched out into a collection of horseshoe shaped parts. seen plenty of that when someone didnt loosen their slipclutches at the start of the harvest season, just for info new apron chain will cost right about $1000 per roll on a modern harvester.
i saw a video on you tube of a ground driven digger that had a longer tongue on it then the 3 point hookup, like 3-4 foot long, and it was digging perfect, even in harder clay dirt, mine has the 3 point right up close to the digger, would the longer tongue make it do better? maybe not pick up in the back so easy???
Handyman
Member
- Location
- Bonneville County, Idaho
It might be a good idea to try converting it back to a trail type digger, if nothing else you could also try hanging some weights on the back of the digger to hold it down better
Handyman
Member
- Location
- Bonneville County, Idaho
You could build a truck yourself or have someone build one for you that would fit the digger the way it is set up now, cost might be a problem if you have one made by someone else though. might be cheaper to just hang some weights on it and try useing it as it is right now,that would depend on if your three point could lift the additional weight though.
Do you have it set up so that the digger is free floating???? IF you are trying to have the top link solidly mounted it will not work because it is lifting the rear off the ground when you go over a hump. IF I was three point mounting it I would use a chain linkage in the top link. Then you could set it out long enough to let the digger float.
They had a manual lift system on them. This raised the digger plenty high enough. Is your missing this???
Why don't you pot us some picture of what you have done. That way we can see if we can help you make it work as it is.
To convert it to PTO drive is going to be costly and will more than likely tear it up. The wheels being able to slip is the slip clutch on the old ground driven diggers.
They had a manual lift system on them. This raised the digger plenty high enough. Is your missing this???
Why don't you pot us some picture of what you have done. That way we can see if we can help you make it work as it is.
To convert it to PTO drive is going to be costly and will more than likely tear it up. The wheels being able to slip is the slip clutch on the old ground driven diggers.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Few suggestions
Use a hydraulic motor vs PTO - you can make a bracket and connect it with a loveJoy coupling to the shaft turning the digger chain. You'll save a lot on the PTO parts Gearboxes, sprockets and chain. Use a variable speed valve to control the speed and put in a check valvve to prevent you from turning it backwards by mistake.
Second clean up the points on the digger, rusty cruded up points won't go in the ground.
Go back to the tow behind setup.
If you must have a 3 point setup --- Remove all the wheels and use the smaller ones (byy some if you only have the large back ones) - install some brackest up next to the front point for depth control. The depth control will help a lot
Hopefully this will work. All but a few diggers are tow behind. They generally are much shorter.
Send some pictures to show us how you made out.
Use a hydraulic motor vs PTO - you can make a bracket and connect it with a loveJoy coupling to the shaft turning the digger chain. You'll save a lot on the PTO parts Gearboxes, sprockets and chain. Use a variable speed valve to control the speed and put in a check valvve to prevent you from turning it backwards by mistake.
Second clean up the points on the digger, rusty cruded up points won't go in the ground.
Go back to the tow behind setup.
If you must have a 3 point setup --- Remove all the wheels and use the smaller ones (byy some if you only have the large back ones) - install some brackest up next to the front point for depth control. The depth control will help a lot
Hopefully this will work. All but a few diggers are tow behind. They generally are much shorter.
Send some pictures to show us how you made out.
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