Running Gear Help

BigTone · Sep 6, 2012

I saved this from the hedge row today, it was my father in laws and is set up for horse drawn. my wife remembers going on rides when she was younger, which is the reason Id like to restore it so we can take our kids.

I have 2 questions, can anyone tell me what model this is (maybe an John Deere 802?), and 2 of the rims are rotten so can I replace these with other rims or do I need to find the spoke style? Thanks for the help

Dick2 · Sep 6, 2012

The color doesn't seem right for JD. Also, JD probably would be stamped in the wheel caps if it was made by Deere. Probably made by some short-line manufacturer without any stampings.

Maybe someone else knows.

rufus80 · Sep 6, 2012

From the look of the hitch it looks like an Electric Wheel gear.

Joe W. · Sep 6, 2012

It looks just like one I have sitting in my back yard ready for restoring. Mine is an IH and I don't know the model number. The IH logo is on the square knob on the hubcaps and also on the top of each of the two spindle housings. My standards are identical to yours and mine also has a bolster only on the front axle. The original paint scheme, according to the McCormick Deering Paint Committee notes of 1929, is Harvester Red on the frame, Harvester Cream on the wheels, and Harvester Blue on the hubcaps. Your spokes, like mine, have been cut off and welded onto steel rims. I replaced rims on another spoke wheel gear by cutting the spokes off the old rims and welding them on new blank rims. It worked. A little expensive but it worked. Here are a couple of photos of mine so you can compare.

BigTone · Sep 6, 2012

You are 100% correct, I just went out with the flash light and it has the IH logo stamped on the hubs, thanks for the help!! We thought it was a Deere but we are tickled that its an IH, we are an IH farm...thanks again, anthony

Kevin Happke · Sep 6, 2012

This McCormick Deering-IH running gear is called an All-Purpose Farm Truck and it came with an all steel wheel, the steel wheels were cut off and rims welded on for a rubber tire...front steel wheels were 28 inch diameter and the rears 34 inch diameter with either a 6 inch flange face [regular] or 4 inch straight edge...this truck was still being made in 1940

Leroy · Sep 7, 2012

If you will look at it you will see that the rear bolster sets quite a bit lower than the front one, that is the reason for the larger wheels on the back as they will raise it 3" so the bed set level. If you do not want to go with the larger size tire then you will need to put a 3" block on back bolster to level the bed. The shorter the bed the more notacible it will be. I do not know what current sizes would equal the wheel size that it was designed for but at time of conversion it should have had 6:00 X 16" tires put on front and 6:00 X 20" or 32 X 6 as they were also called put on back. The 32 being 32" tall with the 16" being 28" tall and both being same width. A straight, non tapered roller bearing should be in those wheels and they are hard to find but I know where you can get them made along with the sleeve race they run in and chances are good they are warn enough they will be too loose wobbly for to run good with out replacing.

Joe W. · Sep 7, 2012

O.K., Leroy, you have my attention. Where can I get those bearings and races made? My hubs, expecially the left front, are wobbly.

Leroy · Sep 7, 2012

Send me an email and I will tell you how but unless you are close to west central Ohio you will have to work by snail mail. He is Amish and has a machine shop and makes them. He is doing some work for me right now. Opened email. He can make by numbers on some items or by your measurements. [email protected]

Leroy · Sep 8, 2012

Joe W. email sent, let me know if you recieve it.

Joe W. · Sep 8, 2012

I got it. Many thanks.

Old Iowa · Sep 9, 2012

Big Tone: Those type of wheel bearing do not fit "tight" like the newer tapered roller bearings. They just are a straight roller with a hard steel sleeve on the outside. They will be "loose" even when brand new. The only way to really check them is to take them apart. If the rollers still are in the end cages and the other sleeves is not worn into pieces it will last a long time. They also where the type you greased every day. They will leak grease on the inside. Many of them did not even have an inner seal. Most just had a felt wiper.

So if they look good then just check and see how well they roll. They can be real loose and work fine. You are not going to using them hard or heavy. These type of wagons are not a high speed one. Even with new bearing all a round I would not pull it very fast on the highway.

Leroy · Sep 9, 2012

Acually if the parts are all like new, race, bearing and axle there will be no slop in them and the grease seal will hold the grease in them and then you do not have to grease every day. Only when they start getting worn will you have that. And as for speed they will handle the wagon speed limit of 25 MPH with no problems, the problem would come from other things causing wipping and for a parade wagon he would want to be able to pull it at a pretty good clip to get to parade.

Running Gear Help

BigTone

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Dick2

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rufus80

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Joe W.

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BigTone

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Kevin Happke

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Leroy

Well-known Member

Joe W.

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Leroy

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Leroy

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Joe W.

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Old Iowa

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Leroy

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