I will start to rebuild my 2 row Ford 309 planter this week and I wonder how much experience the readers have with using the rust killing paint like Ospho(sp?) or naval jelly etc to kill existing rust and provide a better base to paint and prevent future rust. Also I have to rebuild the fertilizer distributor and I will need an axle to rebuild. If I can find stainless I use it but is there a better or as good choice to prevent rust in the fertilizer box. I painted and sprayed to wash it out but it finally rusted thru.
- Thread starter SuperHank
- Start date
Paulinkansas
Member
I bought a Dearborn 12-xx 2 row planter about 10 years ago. It was the predecessor to the Ford 309. When I bought it, nothing moved except the drive wheels/axle. It was completely rusted together. I unbolted everthing, took it all apart down to the individual piece, and used the electrolysis method for rust removal on all the medium and small pieces. For larger pieces, I just used a wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder.
Joe Watkins
Member
I have restored 3 John Deere running gears, 963, 953, and a 952. I sandblast the bolsters, standards, and wheels and then wire wheel the rest of the gear with an angle grinder. On the wire wheeled parts I paint with 2 coats of RustOleum Rusty Metal Primer and finish with 2 coats of John Deere oil-based paint. On the sandblasted parts I paint with 2 coast of RustOleum Clean Metal Primer and finish with 2 coats of John Deere oil-based paint. The RustOleum Rusty Metal Primer is somewhat thicker than normal paint and covers very well. There may be better solutions but this has worked very well for me.
Brian in MI
Member
I restored my 309 a few years ago, I compleatly dissamembled and sand blasted everything. Then to kill whatever fertilizer may still be on there I washed in soapy hot water with a bit of baking soda. To protect it I started with a Zinc rich primer (Carboline), It is an industrial coating. A good etching primer will work too. Then paint with your favorite brand of paint. I used Rustoleum Implement paint, comes in Ford Blue, the Grey was paint from NH Dealer, "63-"00 Ford Grey. If anything is broke, good luck on parts, most are NLS. This how mine turned out
superhank - I rebuilt my 309 6 years ago. The feeder shaft was pretty well shot. I cut 1" pvc pipe to fit each section between the rubber wheels, ripped a gap down one side of maybe 1/2", secured this around the shaft open side up, then poured marine epoxy with fiber filler into each section, excapsulating the rusty remnants of the shaft. That was 6 years ago, it lives outside from April to August, and plants 3-5 acres of corn, milo and beans each year. Might be your salvation. Messicks website has a search engine under New Holland for part numbers. The Feeder Shaft is part #222314. Many 309 parts still available, but it's cheaper to pay a shop to fabricate than buy the parts IMO.
Here's the link to the New Holland search engine. They show the Feeder shaft as available ($78). Also have the wheels (129041) for $36 each! and the shaft washers (128889).
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Brian in MI
Member
I got a piece of 5/8" stainless shaft and had them cut some stainless washersto go on either side of the rubber flap wheels. Was only about $40 for all. I used stainless cotter pins to hold the flap wheels in place.
Works great
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