Farmall C conversion to 12 volt

I have a Farmall C I restored and left it 6 volt I can not keep the battery charged and working. I have decided to change to 12 volt. To make things work properly what to I need to change. I have read several things and everyone says something different. Any input or ideas would be helpful.

Buy a 12 V batt change to Neg ground. buy a 2 wire Alt Aprox (32.00) install a resistor aprox (8.00) in wiring between Battery and Coil/pts to reduce voltage to prevent burning the pts, buy a spring loaded toggle switch, install between Alt and Battery to activate alt to charge

I would suggest fixing what is wrong with the current 6 volt system. My Super C and Farmall H are both 6 volt but both had issues when I first got them. The right size (00) battery cables with the battery ground to a starter to frame bolt and replacing or repairing the voltage regulator or generator (which ever is defective) should fix your problem. I used a troubleshooting guide which was provided by Bob M here on this forum to locate the malfunction in my charging system. Someone will probably be able to post either his or John T's guide to find your defective component or components, Hal.

I just noticed you have this thread posted on the Implement forum - Ot might be better if it was placed on the IHC / Farmall forum site for better exposure to IH folks, Hal.

There is a link here on this site that is very good. Bob has you covered. Replace generator with alternator, coil, battery and bulbs. Worked fine for my Farmall 200. Starter need not be replaced.
Alternator will be negative ground, so connect battey accordingly. Reverse connections at ammeter.

Right now, I can't remember how to bringup Bob's article... Maybe someone else can help.

Are you looking to do this cheep, so it looks original or functional.

Cheep is well cheep and you can keep all the original stuff - just unhook the wires.

Put in a 12V neg ground battery and change the coil to a 12V coil or use a balance resistor. unhook the generator and lights and tape off the wires.

Only down side is that you have to charge the battery with a battery charger once a month or so.

The fellows on the Ford N board go round and round on 6V vs 12V.
I compiled a list of reasons to make the conversion.

[i:654c4848f0]12V spins your engine faster and starts it better in all conditions, especially if it is very cold or if the engine has marginal compression.
*12V with an alternator is more reliable and uses a solid state VR instead of a decrepit system of points, coils and electromagnets to regulate the charging voltage.
If you don't think solid state is better show me a new flat screen TV that uses tubes and I'll buy you a cup of coffee.
*12V is more forgiving of dirty contacts on/in the entire wiring harness.
*12v is the industry standard and has been for nearly 50 years. That's longer than 6V ever was and getting longer every year.
*12v allows you to run sprayer pumps, flashing lights, winches and a host of other modern accessories on your tractor.
*12V lights are brighter.
*A 12v alternator will easily put out more amps than an old fashioned generator and vr.
*An alternator will charge at an idle. Generator usually will not.
*A 12v system is safer, ie: Most people know how to jump a 12v negative ground car, truck or tractor. How many people know how to safely jump a 6v positive ground tractor with a 12 battery without something exploding in their faces?
*6v requires big hairy - big as your thumb wires and cables throughout the system.
*12v batteries are to be found just about anywhere, are cheaper than 6v and are usually maintenance free.
*12v lets you use electronic ignition easily.
* And last but not least, is this your only tractor? If so who needs an odd ball 6v battery? Like, what kind of battery is in your boat, your RV, your classic car or even your 4 wheeler or snowmobile if you have them? Why have that odd ball? [/i:654c4848f0]

Others will argue this to a fine point, but basically all you need is a GM 1-wire, internally regulated alternator, with the smallest pulley, you can get, a 12 volt battery, and such bracket parts as needed to mount the alternator. You can re-use the existing wire harness, or run new wire, I've done it both ways. You can replace the coil now, or run it till it quits. You wire the wire from the alt to battery(of course disconnect anything you aren't using like the regulator). You leave all else alone, unless you want to rewire switch, dash, etc. You also have to reverse the 2 wires on the coil, and of course wire the battery to negative ground. Unless you rewire the ammeter, it will read backwards, but it works either way!

I agree with your discussion regarding reasons to convert from older 6 volt systems to 12 volts. All of the tractors in my collection have been converted to 12 volts and solid state ignition. Only tractor that hasn't been converted is the pony starting motor on my 1939 caterpillar D2. This tractor is just to look at. I don't use it.
Website of tractors that have been all converted to 12 volts solid state ignitions. http://www.rockisland.com/~ejensen

OK, I can see that I am in a minority and that in general people do not like 6 volt systems. Also, that 12 volt is standard in many places, although in Australia for high compression engines we like to use 24 volt systems. However, I have to point out that:
1). Yes a 6 volt starter operating at 12 volts will turn a motor over faster than on 6 volts. A 12 volt starter operating on 12 volts will turn a motor over at the same speed as an equivalent 6 volt starter operating on 6 volts.
2). Solid state is reliable and works well, but points etc do not have to be decrepit. There is no rule saying one must fit poor quality 6 volt equipment. Most generator/regulator set-ups I have worked with (6 and 12 volt) need little or no attention for years on end.
In fairness I do not run (and do not like) coil ignition systems on Farmall tractors. The magneto always works whether the battery and charging system are present or not. If the battery is flat I just crank start the machine, so 6 volt is easy for me. In addition (though this might be not be an advantage) Farmall tractors here are nearly all fitted with Lucas generator and regulators, which work well unless subjected to rough checks or repairs. Are Delco generators and regulators really so bad that everyone wants to be rid of them?
SadFarmall