Setting up a 3 bottom Allis Chalmers moldboard plow..

Bevan · Oct 23, 2010

I bought a 3 bottom snap coupler plow to be pulled by my D17. I am concerned the plow isn"t set up right and is pulling the engine down too much. I may be plowing too deep as well. Anyone have any advice on checking the set up for the 3 bottom snap coupler plow? The guy who had it before me may maladjusted as he tried to pull it with a WD. If its just better that I get a manual for the 3 bottom I am in the market for either original, reproduction, or a photo copy of a manual. Thanks much

Chris (WA) · Oct 23, 2010

You have to set the plow so it plows square and level with the tractors wheel in the furrow.
You'll never get it set up with chains and a comealong!

JMS/.MN · Oct 23, 2010

Doesn"t matter the tractor, the setup is the same. What"s the purpose of the chain and comealong? A word of caution- you have the original old style couplers on the lift arms. Some say that can kill you because if the Snap-Coupler releases (that"s the bell housing the drawbar attaches to)- the plow can rear up over the seat and hit you in the head. They are pinned/bolted to the lift arms and will not release like the later model lift latches. Lift latches are often incorrectly called "Snap-Couplers". Never saw it happen, just heard about it here. Regarding setup, level it front and back in the furrow, and turning the crank towards the ground raises the plowing depth. Plowshares must be good to turn a decent furrow.

Bevan · Oct 23, 2010

The chain and come along were the way I drove it from one location to another. I chained the unit up so to give the cylinder a break when driving for 2 hours. One time deal. The Snap coupler is a true snap coupler. I have a WD that has the old style sleeve over hitch connection instead of a true snap coupler.

Bevan · Oct 23, 2010

The comealong and the chain were for transport only. I bought the plow and had to drive it home. I brougt the come along in case the seller didn't have the plow set so I could back to it and I would need some pull to set it up straight. The chain was there for the benefit of giving the cylinder that raises the arms a break as I drove it back to my place. Not using either to plow my field.

BushogPapa · Oct 23, 2010

Can you give us some pictures of what job the plow is doing..??
The rear "Heal" should always leave a definite mark in the furrow bottom--(if not too much traction booster is used)..
Looks like the coulters are set plenty deep..
3-14" should not be much of a load for a D-17 at 2 1/2 to 3 MPH..
Looking back at the plow from the tractor seat, cranking Counter-clockwise causes the front of the plow to run shallower..
Clockwise will set it Deeper...to the point that it becomes "over-beamed" and goes in too deep, or the heal stops running on the ground from being over-beamed..
The Heal does wear and occasionally needs adjusted and also needs re-adjusted when New shares are installed..

Ron..

BushogPapa · Oct 23, 2010

A set of Cover-Boards and switching to release-latches and you are ready to have some FUN..!!
4-14" would be MORE Fun though..!!

Ron..

R2D2 · Oct 23, 2010

My dad had three of those plows, 2-14 for a B, 2-16 for a WD and 3-14 for a D-14. Sandy land no problems pulling them but never could get them running straight. All plows and tractors were bought new. They were a pita.

That plow was made during the WD years. The plow for the D series had swept back trip beams, shouldn't matter. One thing I see wrong is your rear wheels are set out to wide. Slide them in. You might need a depth stop or guage wheel, but the crank on the plow and the TB should keep it from going to deep. Also try adjusting the right plow lift arm. This is suppose to level, you'll just have to keep trying and adjusting until you give up.

We got rid of all our A-C junk back in the early 70's and I will never regret it.

Bevan · Oct 23, 2010

I think I have the depth finally solved. I found the sweet spot with the crank for the tilt of the unit. I will try narrowing my wheel base. That should tilt the plow without messing with the height adjustment on the arms. I hadn't thought of that.

R2D2 · Oct 23, 2010

It's not an offset plow so with the right wheel out wide the first plow will be taking to wide of a cut. This will also throw everything out of kilter.

Just keep tinkering with it. A-C wasn't that bad, I just moved on to something better.

maxwell99 · Oct 23, 2010

I had a d-14

for it I had a set of 2-14's and a set of 2 disc plows

all you have to do is get the rear tire width set, then level the plows front to rear and side to side.

you may have to spent some torch time heating all the plow adjustments, they must be in good working condition so you can make the proper adjustments. Those fine threads will get stuck if the plow was stored outside and most were.

be sure the snap couple hook under the tractor has the proper carter keys in the main pin and they are in good condition also be sure the release spring is in good condition as it keeps the hook tight, it can release in rough conditions and let the plow come unhooked (bad news).

plowed many hours with those old plows and properly setup they plow great and followed the tractor straight.

just be careful and insure all your connections are in good working order.

plowing is one of the harder pull jobs a tractor does and your equipment must be good order.

you will find your weak spots if you ever hang the plows on a rock or root.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 23, 2010

Its a WD plow, on a D-17. Early type lift arm couplers, were not snap couplers, the went on the lift arms with set screws. Also, if it was mounted right, the swinging clevis, at the plow frame, should be rotated 180 degrees, then fold the arm up. If you do that, then the plow frame probably won't clear the tractor's pto. Someone probably traded some of the hitch parts around to make the plow fit the tractor. Be very careful operating it. if it disconnects, by accident, at the snap coupler bell, it WILL swing around, and give you a plow lobotomy, removing your brains very quickly.

Bevan · Oct 23, 2010

I don't see that... Maybe I am wrong but I do have a WD early plow on a WD and the lift arm couplers are "caps" with a pin that slides through the arm. The WD I have has a hitch that is not a snap coupler, its a channel iron bent to fit over the hitch that then swung freely though bolted to the plow. The WD was really not enough HP to pull this plow if I could jerry rig it to be so. The hitch "seems" original and not the bent channel like the early WD plows were. Unless you are referring to a later model of the WD plow. The guy who had it before me put it on a Later WD and couldn't pull it.

Bevan · Oct 23, 2010

Here are you pictures...

Bevan · Oct 23, 2010

Here is a pic of the plow by itself...

R2D2 · Oct 23, 2010

It's possible the previous owner made some switches with a more modern plow. The previous owner is a lier and a crook, I would take the plow back and demand a refund.

JMS/.MN · Oct 23, 2010

Lift arm couplers are called "lift latches" not "Snap-Couplers". SC is the bell housing under the tractor that the drawbar "snaps" into.

JMS/.MN · Oct 23, 2010

I was wrong about which way to turn the depth crank...after CRS, checked the op manual (TM 128E) for a D series plow, but adj is the same...other poster was right- turn CCW to raise plow. Takes several turns to adjust one inch. If the plow has a slip heel, it is adj after proper depth is reached...that levels the plow fore and aft. Should start with heel quarter inch below the bottom with a long landside.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 24, 2010

Coupla thoughts about the picture of the plow by itself:

If you rotate the lift arms outward, from their dangling position, on the little bolt that holds the clevises together, that is how the lift arms should hang, on the tractor.

The adjustable link, on the right side, should always be shorter than the flat one, on the left. (as viewed from the back of tractor.)

Look at the difference in color of the snap coupler eye, vs the rest of the plow. It is an addition, from a later plow. Yours was originally a 50 series WD hidden hitch plow, my guess.

From your plowing picture, it looks like you need to get the plow closer to the last furrow (move the wheel in.)

BushogPapa · Oct 24, 2010

Looks pretty dry there...!

Doing a good job, for not having Jointers or Cover Boards..!
A little less "traction Booster" or setting the plow adjustment one more turn "Down" would let it plow deeper..
I don't see any mark in the furrow from the Heal..
Usually, you want to plow 6" to 7" deep with a 14" plow, but no deeper.
Except for setting it a little deeper, you are pretty good..
Might want to check the width of cut on the front furrow..may be a little narrow..it is not filling in level with the last pass..
With the plow/tractor in your usual plowing position, in the furrow..measure the width of cut from the front of the coulter to the furrow wall..should be 14".
If it is, you may want to set the lift-arm adjustment down about 1/2 turn..
Nice Job, Nice Pictures..!
In sod and set right, you can turn un-broken furrow slices 1/4 mile long or more...!!
Makes for nice going, the 1st time over after plowing..!!
Ron..

Bevan · Oct 25, 2010

What if... this is a later series plow but the arms have been swapped out. They don't look to be original the way they are attached to the plow. It may be the plow started out like the one have attached and the owner, whoever they were did not have the latch like arms and wanted to use the plow anyways. Just a thought.

Bevan · Oct 25, 2010

....

Setting up a 3 bottom Allis Chalmers moldboard plow..

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