plow coulter setting

This old set of MF62 plows makes a better trash drag than plow.

So I replace the coulter blades and set them at 6" off the ground. I can pull the plows at around 7" deep with my TO-35 Fergy.

I seems the trash builds up in front of the coulter frames then plugs up the plow, as more trash builds up it lifts the plow out of the ground.

if the new coulters blades do not help with trash buildup, wonder if you could weld a angle to the front of the coulter frame to guide trash down under the coulter frame.

other wise i am out of solutions.

I always bushhog the garden spot then disc it mulit times before I attempt to plow the filth under.

any suggestions are appreciated:

Center the coulter axel over the plow point to start and run it 1/2" over into the land, not dead in line with the shin. You should be cutting 2 or 3 inches deep. Moving coulters forward gives more trash clearance.

I just went through that. I removed the coulters.....problem solved. Plowed about an acre of tall weeds and grass no problem. 2 bottom Deerborn 3 point hitch.

Rick

In material other than corn stalks, I often found that disking made it worse . . .

I agree with Tim(nj). It also looks as if the moldboards aren't fully scoured yet... it will be much more apt to plug if they arne't polished from use.

Wouldn't setting the coulters a little lower slice the sod better ? I know a sure thing , you need to polish those plows & smear old oil or grease on them before & after you use them . The shiner & oilier you start out with will make your furrows easier & nicer looking . As a kid , my job was to keep dads plows & disc cleaned & oiled for the next time . Never did rust show on our equipment . If dad spotted rust , it was not a good thing for my behind . Dirt will not roll off rusted metal . Just like snow won't roll off a rusted shovel .HTH ! God bless

thanks for the input,
I have tried taking off the coulters, but it did not help, maybe some, but the vines and filth just choked up around the plow beams.


Thats why i tried the new coulter blades.

I do most of my truck patch plowing in the fall, when you have the most ground cover filth, try to turn that under, but the last couple of years have not had much luck.

I do have a old Ferguson double disc bullet plow and it will cut through the filth but it does not cover the filth good and leaves the field very rough.

Those plows don't have a great deal of trash clearance under the best of conditions. The #66 (trip beam version) has a LITTLE more. It wasn't until the MF #43 that they had a high clearance light draft plow.

Coulters should be set 3/8" to 5/8" to the land side of the bottom. I've had the best luck with coulters cutting 2" to 3" deep. If the coulters are worn significantly, that depth will put the coulter brackets too low where they'll catch trash rather than help the problem. From the pictures, your coulters don't look worn.

There isn't much in the way of adjustment for fore/aft on the coulter brackets. Only left/right and up/down.

I'm in agreement that the plow in the picture needs to be scoured more to help get a good "flow" of dirt/sod/crop residue through and under the beams.

I use a MF #66 plow (again same basic configuration, but trip beams) I've had MUCH better luck since I installed cover boards (aka trash boards) If you do use cover boards, set coulters farther to the land side. (I set mine @ 3/4" to the left)

Long story short, this isn't UNcommon with older 3-point plows that weren't really designed to deal with trashy conditions.

Mow or Bush-Hog it, but don't disc it..
You want the colters to be able to CUT the trash..
If you disc it, they have nothing solid to cut the trash against.
I would run the colters deeper if they are large enough in diameter..

Ron..

MF Poor,

Do you have a picture of your plow with cover boards (aka trash boards)

or any information on where I can buy them for my MF 62 plow

Thanks,

Here's the only picture I can find. The plow had worn out coverboards on it when I bought it. I replaced the "moldboard" part of each coverboard. Brackets were already in place. I bought the parts I needed at a Massey Ferguson dealer. (MF/AGCO dealer) Yetter sells plastic coverboards w/universal mounts. (probably cheaper)

Those type of Massey ploughs were OK but they had very little underbeam and interbody clearance ( We had 2 of those before we went Kverneland, but all ploughs can bung up ) if you have disced it up already the only way you will get the coulters to cut through the trash is to roll it flat.
B.T.D.T!

P.S. Could you beg steal or borrow a rotovator? if the trash was smashed up to bits then the land rolled so the coulters had something to bite against you just might get away with it.

Bushog Papa has it right. DO NOT DISK the ground first as your coulters will not be able to cut the trash in the lose dirt. Also you need to be running the coulters deeper. An inch or so is not deep enough. I bet that it plugs before you can get the plow into the ground. You have them set at six inch off of the ground. Is that hanging or held up aganst the bracket? Lift the coulter bracket and take the slack out. I bet that you are not even getting them in the ground. The plow plug right away before it is at depth.

How long after you mow it are you trying to plow??? The sooner the better as the trash will get tougher as it drys out. If I have to mow/shred in front of the plows I do it right in front. I usually mow a little and plow it under while it is still green.